Oak Interior Color Matching?

[KarenPDX]

I’m in the process of building a new, smaller table for our 21C. It’s going to be made out of quarter sawn white oak. I’m going to use the linear rail build discussed in a previous posting.

My go to finish (Osmo PolyOx) is not going to match the interior of the trailer very well. I’m wondering if anybody in this group tried to match their oak paneling by staining white oak?

I’m going to do some tests before finishing the table but if somebody could give me some tips that will save me some time, money and effort it would be apreciated.


Regards,

Mike Jolley

[Ron in BC]

When I used red oak for an over the door shelf I think that I got a fairly close match. But even then I used 3 different stains to get it right.

Good luck on matching the white oak. Unless someone has a trick to shorten the process it might just have to be trail and error.

Ron

[occer]

When I’ve do project if I can’t get a match, I go totally different as an accent color.

[BobG]

I have used TransTint Dye to stain white oak to match existing furniture. It takes several trials to get the color match by mixing 2 or more dyes. Internet search of TransTint will bring up color charts and quite a bit of help.

I use any oil based urethane finish for most projects and if it is fine furniture then I use a wipe off oil based polyurethane.

[Reid Larsen]

I’ve added drawers to two different escapes and used red oak with an oil based polyurethane finish on both, no stain, and they both matched remarkably well. I’m thinking you will have a difficult time making white oak totally match but fortunately with a table you aren’t directly adjacent to other oak in the trailer. I put a calico ash table top in ourE19 and went for an accent rather than match look.

[Ron in BC]

That's two votes for oil based polyurethane but not from me. I switched to water based years ago. I was a little concerned about durability at first but I used it on a boat table that sees heavy use and it stood up just fine. Now I use water base 100% of the time. Just easier to use.

Red oak varies in color a lot. I've also just put on a coat of Varathane and had a good color match. Depends a lot on how "red" the red oak is.

I have some horrible memories of trying to get a color match on several pieces of white oak furniture. But I was using analine dye and it's very unforgiving. I sit in my dining room and I can still see the one that I got wrong.

Keep us posted on your results.

Ron

[BobG]

I have found that for fine furniture I get a better finish using oil based wipe on varnish than using a spray gun. I now use General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Wipe-On Topcoat or one of their other Arm-R-Seal finishes. It takes a lot longer than using regular application of urethane with a sponge brush or spraying because it takes more coats to get the buildup protection. However, it guarantees a smooth finish without dry spots, dust or runs. Wipe it on with a sponge and then wipe it off with a cotton rag. Very easy to control.

I have nothing against water based but I have problems getting a fine finish with it because it can not be wiped off and I am not that good with a brush or spray gun on irregular furniture. Plus I always have a little dust present in the shop. For regular projects water based works for me.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by KarenPDX

...
I’m wondering if anybody in this group tried to match their oak paneling by staining white oak?
...

I have essentially the same problem. The floor needs to be replaced and a good deal of the trim is damaged. Specifically, the corner molding and the flat molding should be replaced. It appears the corner molding (and possibly the flat) is a plastic product with a red oak photo finish.

At the moment I am leaning towards White Oak and a mix of stains to match the main color (the plywood). Sourcing the right size molding seems near to impossible. I did try Red Oak (much more common) but all attempts at staining, including clear, resulted in too much red for my taste.

I'll be watching this thread closely for hints...

[Chasing Trials]

Originally Posted by KarenPDX

I’m in the process of building a new, smaller table for our 21C. It’s going to be made out of quarter sawn white oak. I’m going to use the linear rail build discussed in a previous posting.

My go to finish (Osmo PolyOx) is not going to match the interior of the trailer very well. I’m wondering if anybody in this group tried to match their oak paneling by staining white oak?

I’m going to do some tests before finishing the table but if somebody could give me some tips that will save me some time, money and effort it would be apreciated.


Regards,

Mike Jolley

I Replaced my table twice. One because was a an OLD coffee table top, Cupped up(way it was made), & what I cut off it. So I had a piece of 3/4" white oak Plywood(Restore), & replaced it. I didn't even try to get a match, in fact it's trimmed with red. There is grey tone in white oak, that will just keep coming through. But it does depend on white oak pieces.

[KarenPDX]

We went with Rubiomonocoat Pure product. Easy Peasy. Top is quarter sawn white oak. The under mount for the bearing blocks is baltic birch. To handle wood movement across the gain I milled some slots in the rails and centered the screws in the slots. To keep the rails in the bearing blocks I used some small SS hose clamps. To keep the table from sliding during use and transit I used a small wood working toggle clamp. It’s a decent match to my eye. It’s a lot easier for Karen and I to use the table. It’s 32 inch wide by 40 inches long.

Regards,

Mike

[Lorraine Pittsburgh]

Beautiful & functional! What's not to love?

[Ron in BC]

Great result. One of those situations that you don't know how it's going to turn out until you try it. But a great match and what's not to love about solid stock.

Ron

[cpaharley2008]

Beautiful table, that is one item I need to upgrade.....