Permanent Mount Drop Leaf Table for Tenessee Rambler
We opted for Escape not to mount our dinette table because we wanted something smaller and less in the way. We wanted to use our dinette mostly as a lounge without the table. We also have no need to use it for a bed. We came up with a design for a permanent mount drop leaf table that serves as a handy counter when closed, has a fair amount of storage inside and is a perfectly sized table for us. If anyone is interested I can share plans and tips on construction.
Really neat idea. Nice work. Just a thought - I wonder if someone that didn't want the table base in the floor when the table is folded could incorporate a folding table leg. Something like this... https://vintagetrailersupply.com/fol...e-leg-vts-559/
We looked at those but since we had the Escape supplied leg we decided to use it instead. It’s not attached, we store it in the under-bench storage area.
1. Make a cardboard Template for the sides. Trailers are not square and vary considerably from one to another. Your measurements may differ slightly from mine, use the measurements on my cut sheet and side view drawing as a starting point for your template. Make sure your template fits your trailer and the front side is plumb and the top is level. The triangular template is for a shim between the table side and the bench.
Cardboard templates.
2. Measure the Floor from one side to the other where the bottom of the side pieces go. If your measurement is different from mine (29 3/8), you will have to adjust all of the horizontal measurements to compensate for the difference. Vertical measurements should remain the same.
3. Cut all your pieces. I put painters tape on all the cut lines, top and bottom, for a cleaner cut. I used a circular saw for one cut, a table saw for most cuts and a jigsaw for some. I also made sure, for whichever saw I was using, the direction the blade was turning brought the teeth down onto the “appearance” or good side of the plywood. That meant good side up for table saw and good side down for circular saw. When I had to use a jigsaw I used a ground tooth blade with no kerf made for clean cuts. Google “making clean cuts on plywood” for more information.
4. Apply iron-on edge banding on all the plywood edge surfaces that will be visible. If you have never used it before, it is easy, available at big box stores, and works well. Google “plywood edge banding” for more information.
5. Assemble table. I used Kreg pocket hole screws. I attached the sides to the top first, then the shelves. I put the assembled top and sides face down with a piece of ¾ plywood under the shelf face, (or the front side pieces) to properly position the shelves.
With the shelves in position, install the bottom front piece and the front side pieces. Turn the assembly up on its top and and lay the table out in the open position. Lay the open hinge across the joint and mark the holes. Drill pilot holes making sure to center the holes and not drill through the piece. Attach hinge with screws to make sure of proper fit and operation of the table. Now is a good time to install cabinet fasteners to hold table tightly shut when towing. If all is good remove screws and hinge and set table aside.
6. Mount pedestal holder to table, this will only apply if you are using the Escape supplied table leg, if you use a different support you are on your own for that part. It mounts 1 ½ inches from the lower edge centered on the table. I used four sets of two ¼ inch fender washers stacked as spacers to allow the pedestal base to slide in. The fender washers vary enough in thickness that I had to measure them with calipers to get the stacks to about .160 inches.
7. Make shims to fill in the spaces between the table sides and benches. The plastic molding at the top and bottom of the benches creates a space of ¼ inch between the table side and bench. I cut a triangular piece of ¼ inch plywood for each side. The bench on one side was badly enough out of plumb that I had to make another shim about .070 inch thick for the top bolt. You don’t want to leave spaces for the bolts to pull up as they are tightened because you could damage the table or benches. The template for the shims is shown in step one.
8. Apply ¾ X ½ inch foam gasket material to the back of the assembly where it will be touching the wall. This will help prevent damage to the vinyl from the table jiggling while towing.
9. Dry fit assembly (without tabletop attached) and drill holes. You will have to put your shims in place beforehand and attach them with a piece of tape. Get the assembly in place and push tightly against the wall top and bottom (may require help). Measure the height of the holes from the floor to avoid shelves and drill clearance holes for ¼ inch bolts through the bench upright closest to the wall and table side. There were wires attached to these bench supports in my trailer that had to be temporarily removed.
10. Remove assembly and paint or finish how you choose. After paint dries reinstall hinge and tabletop. Check to make sure everything works properly.
11. Install in trailer. I used ¼ inch bolts with fender washers and lock washers to prevent loosening while towing. The lower bolts were 2 ½ inches long and the upper ones were 3 ½ inches long.
Really neat idea. Nice work. Just a thought - I wonder if someone that didn't want the table base in the floor when the table is folded could incorporate a folding table leg. Something like this... https://vintagetrailersupply.com/fol...e-leg-vts-559/
We had this table installed by ETI in our 17A (back in the Reace and Tammy days)
See: https://vintagetrailersupply.com/tab...e-kit-vts-520/
I think it is called a hinged table, with a folding leg. Folds down to bed height. It gets rid of those pedestal legs. I can't find a photo right now, will post tomorrow. We like it because it opens up the floor space.
I like that, it seems like a good solution for people who need to use the dinette as a bed. It looks like it may require penetrations in the shell to mount it though.
After the fact it would need penetrations. As Reece did it during the build, or as the same set up in our Bigfoot, fiberglassed tabbing at build time took care of that. You could add interior tabbing, and trim cover, but that’s more involved than many would want to do.
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Randy & Barb
1998 C 2500 (Cruncher) and 2021 Ranger (Yoda)
Here are the pics of our hinged table. Doesn't have the storage of the OP's though. Mamaw is also correct that it needs support on the shell. We got this as part of the build, and the shell was set up for it. ETI furnished a small board that serves as a support for the bed, as the table isn't as long as the standard table. Sorry, couldn't figure out how to rotate the photos
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