reinforced walls

[h2owmn]

ETI declines to install a handhold to the left of entry in the 17 so I had that wall (side of refrig) reinforced. Turned out they installed the one I brought along at orientation. Still glad I did it—it’s solid. It was a safety issue for me.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by h2owmn

ETI declines to install a handhold to the left of entry in the 17 so I had that wall (side of refrig) reinforced. Turned out they installed the one I brought along at orientation. Still glad I did it—it’s solid. It was a safety issue for me.

I know I tried to get better options for the outside grab handle for our build . They declined all but one .But they said they forgot to install that one . So at pick up they installed another grab handle same as outside just inside the door on our Classic . We now have added the pole for roof support but really don't want to grab the pole getting in and out . Many years ago when I was a lot younger getting out of our 23 ft Class C ,single step with outside carpet on step ,took a flying leap to the ground . So I want a grab handle getting in and out . Pat

[StillCampin]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

... these are supposed to be lightweight trailers where decent fuel economy is part of the appeal.

So true, but in my case, with the 1 ton diesel dually I already have, including wind catcher cargo box on the roof, I don't think that adding even 1000 #s would be too noticable.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by StillCampin

So true, but in my case, with the 1 ton diesel dually I already have, including wind catcher cargo box on the roof, I don't think that adding even 1000 #s would be too noticable.

I pull with a full size Ford and re enforced all our walls . You are talking 75-100 lbs Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by StillCampin

So true, but in my case, with the 1 ton diesel dually I already have, including wind catcher cargo box on the roof, I don't think that adding even 1000 #s would be too noticable.

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

I pull with a full size Ford and re enforced all our walls . You are talking 75-100 lbs Pat

I get it, but for those of us out there pulling with mid-size SUV’s I think it should be a serious consideration though. The ETI diagram I linked to in a previous post has the total with all walls reinforced in a 21 at 175 lbs. That is almost the equivalent of two rooftop air conditioners, or two refrigerators, or 4 Honda EU2000 generators or almost 5 full propane tanks! Not insignificant for us.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Total weight increase, dependent upon model, should average about 25#/wall, so 5 walls would be the 175# mentioned.

That’s 125# Jim! The diagram I linked to had 5 walls at 25# plus the bath wall is another 50# for 175#

[cpaharley2008]

My mistake, realized too late...

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by StillCampin

So true, but in my case, with the 1 ton diesel dually I already have, including wind catcher cargo box on the roof, I don't think that adding even 1000 #s would be too noticable.

While you are concerned about burning a little extra propane for heat, you don't seem to have an issue with even more extra costs with fuel in your tow vehicle. That truck is very much overkill for this lightweight trailer. Have you considered maybe a different tow vehicle if you were to get the 5.0TA, because if you were to do lots of travel you could save a lot on fuel, and have a more comfortable truck to drive. After over 30 years of driving either a 3/4 ton or 1 ton diesel I was sure glad to get rid of it and use a half ton instead. Surprisingly, I can still pull my dump trailer with near 10000 lb of weight with no problem.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I get it, but for those of us out there pulling with mid-size SUV’s I think it should be a serious consideration though. The ETI diagram I linked to in a previous post has the total with all walls reinforced in a 21 at 175 lbs. That is almost the equivalent of two rooftop air conditioners, or two refrigerators, or 4 Honda EU2000 generators or almost 5 full propane tanks! Not insignificant for us.

Dave I should of added back in 2013 it seemed to be something new they would add . Our ply only goes 1/2 way up about . I have seen pictures of newer trailers and it looks like they cover the whole wall . But I would still do it . Pat

[Little Richie]

Originally Posted by SJESCAPE

working on final build sheet 5.0 TA
wondering how many choose to add this option increasing trailer weight and cost?
pro or con?
thanks

My wife and I like small and less when camping. We found for example that we like 3M hooks because they are small, light and can be removed when we think we have too many or do not like the location.

As concerns weight, one helpful exercise for me is to looke at the available payload pasted on the door and subtract the weight of all passengers, hitch kit (if not, included at the factory), hitch and the published trailer weight at the hitch. Divide the added weight of your enhancement by this number and multiply it by 100. This is the percentage of available payload used by the enhancement. If you have a lot of payload to start this may be an insignificant number. If you do not , it may help you choose.

[StillCampin]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

While you are concerned about burning a little extra propane for heat, you don't seem to have an issue with even more extra costs with fuel in your tow vehicle.

Cost is not a factor in the propane thing. It is longevity of the supply. And having alternatives.

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

That truck is very much overkill for this lightweight trailer. Have you considered maybe a different tow vehicle if you were to get the 5.0TA

Yes, it is overkill. I bought it to pull the 40' 5th wheel that is my home. If the 5.0TA were to become my full time home then a smaller truck might be considered. But then, my 66 yo body isn't getting younger and that ain't no escalator to the loft.

[steve dunham]

I am trying to understand the theory that flue gasses going out a chimney are a terrible waste of energy but running an unvented heater with the windows and the roof vent open so you don’t die is conserving energy . I am 68 years old and maybe I can’t grasp the logic ?

[barry]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I am trying to understand the theory that flue gasses going out a chimney are a terrible waste of energy but running an unvented heater with the windows and the roof vent open so you don’t die is conserving energy . I am 68 years old and maybe I can’t grasp the logic ?

[StillCampin]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I am trying to understand the theory that flue gasses going out a chimney are a terrible waste of energy but running an unvented heater with the windows and the roof vent open so you don’t die is conserving energy . I am 68 years old and maybe I can’t grasp the logic ?

It is taking me some time to get used to this forum not staying on topic. It sure makes research take longer because a person can find great tidbits in unexpected locations.

I understand what you are saying since the idea of heat going out the vent means more heating needed.

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On edit: the short answer is that I have the ventilation anyway for moisture control so that isn't a consideration for me.
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RV furnaces have probably gotten better since the numbers I've researched but comparing a 70-80% efficient furnace to a nearly 100% efficient device, even with venting heat loss, is a no brainer to me for efficiency comparison. Especially when the venting is being done anyway.

To my way of thinking & experience, using the RVs I've had in my life, having a window & vent cracked just to reduce normal moisture buildup is a must, therefore there is very little, if any, (added) waste of energy due to the needed ventilation for an unvented heater because that ventilation is done anyway. And, as has been said in the thread pertaining to my unvented heater use, the Escape trailers are quite airtight, esp compared to some other RVs I've had, including canvas popups where the walls are made of material that inherantly "breaths" but I've still experienced the roof dripping on the bedding without added ventilation. That air tightness means even more need for moisture control.

Maybe my feel for the need for always having ventilation for moisture control is based on my camping style and location. In the almost 40 years that I've had an RV, my camping has been 95% in the Pacific Northwest of the U.S. and 99% of that has been in the coastal area. And I don't limit my camping to the summertime. Humidity is naturally high here almost 100% of the time. I rarely cook outside anymore so that can contribute heavily to indoor humidity.

My weather station is currently showing 94% outside and 66% inside - even tho I have a window & ceiling vent cracked and a powered dehumidifier going, and I'm using electric for heat, dinner was reheated in the microwave, breakfast is yogurt, and no shower in the rv lately as I am 50 steps from the campground shower house.

My Eva-Dry 2200 dehumidifier had to be emptied on day 10 at this location, with no Wave heater contributing. I live full time in a 40' 5th wheel and run a much larger dehumidifier. During the weeks prior to my current trip in my camping rv I was emptying that ~2+ gallon reservour every 2-3 days and occasionally daily and I have a window & ceiling vent cracked in it, too.

Since I vent anyway, there is no added heat loss & associated waste of energy just because using the unvented heater requires ventilation. And there might even be less since the Wave heater heats objects, not the air. Thus you can be quite warm without bringing all the cubic feet of air, and objects in the rv, up to a comfy temp.