Replacing 5.0 Hatch over bed?

[AuthorSP]

We've had an issue with the hatch over the bed on our 5.0. It has always been a bit off, with one corner never really locking down, but it kept the rain out. Now, however, the mechanism that makes it go up and down seems to have lost some strength, and while driving, the hatch will open. We need to replace it.

Has anyone found a better hatch than the cheap system that Escape installs?

[Donna D.]

I think Ventline and Heng's are the only two making these passive vents. And I think ETI installs a Heng vent. Yep, cheap-o things, but they seem to work for what they're designed for. I know the one in my 1988 Scamp is original to the build and the mechanics are fine.

It would be easier to find an alternative if the vent opening was the standard 14x14, but it's not, it's for egress so a much larger size is needed.

Let us know what you come up with. Inquiring minds want to know.

[AuthorSP]

Something that just occurred to me is that it would be really cool to use one of the acrylic windows as a roof hatch, because you wouldn't need a crank and you'd have a blackout shade built in...

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by AuthorSP

Something that just occurred to me is that it would be really cool to use one of the acrylic windows as a roof hatch, because you wouldn't need a crank and you'd have a blackout shade built in...

Hummm, where the vent is located on the nose, and when the trailer is being towed in the rain, that's a LOT of water pushing against that apparatus. You'd really need to make certain there's some sort of barrier lip around 'window' to mitigate a possible leak point.

[C&G in FL]

Escape Hatch Lid: Heng’s 90007-C1
Outside Dimensions:
15-3/8” X 22-1/4”
Fits: 13” X 20” Heng’s 31121C2

[AuthorSP]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Escape Hatch Lid: Heng’s 90007-C1
Outside Dimensions:
15-3/8” X 22-1/4”
Fits: 13” X 20” Heng’s 31121C2

Good info, thanks!

[occer]

We had the same problem with the Hatch on our 5.0. The crank mechanism had a stripped gear and opened will towing.
There is a two year warranty, Escape was good about providing replacement parts and offered to pay if I took it to an RV repair shop.

I decided to install the new crank assembly myself, took a little over an hour, a lot less then delivering the trailer to a shop and then having to return to pick it up the next day. The most difficult part was standing up on the bed throught the opening and then sitting back down.

[jjdeluca]

Originally Posted by occer

We had the same problem with the Hatch on our 5.0. The crank mechanism had a stripped gear and opened will towing.
There is a two year warranty, Escape was good about providing replacement parts and offered to pay if I took it to an RV repair shop.

I decided to install the new crank assembly myself, took a little over an hour, a lot less then delivering the trailer to a shop and then having to return to pick it up the next day. The most difficult part was standing up on the bed throught the opening and then sitting back down.

Same here, after picking up our 5.0, we noticed the crank mechanism was partially stripped during the first night out. Escape replaced under warranty. I'd advise you try replacing the crank, under warranty, first before removing/replacing the entire hatch.

[rmitch]

The correct part # for the 5.0 replacement hatch cover is C90008-C1

[Jeremy Kessenich]

Originally Posted by AuthorSP

Something that just occurred to me is that it would be really cool to use one of the acrylic windows as a roof hatch, because you wouldn't need a crank and you'd have a blackout shade built in...

The looking that I've done, which isn't exhaustive, is that it's cracked opened or all the way open, there isn't an in between. It does have same screen shade combination as the current acrylic windows that ETI has. When I brought this up in the past several people commented that it lets a lot of radiant heat in being clear. They have had truck campers and such with one. It was suggested that to pull the blind then, to which the reply was there was a risk of it cracking from the pent up heat then.

I'll try searching for the thread.

[Jeremy Kessenich]

I can't find the thread. I did find this one: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...ght-25867.html

[Jeremy Kessenich]

I just realized the reason I can't find it is I asked it on the FB group, not this group. It contains the reply about not recommended because of heat build up. I'd personally love to replace it with something like this.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by rmitch

The correct part # for the 5.0 replacement hatch cover is C90008-C1

I would debate that. I have a replacement hatch new, in a box, because these things are so prone to deterioration that I purchased a spare after I had to repair a crack on the front and then a falling tree limb destroyed it a year later and I replaced it when we were out on the road. The box clearly states the part number as 90007-C1 as I stated in a previous post. It is possible that Heng’s has improved the lid and changed the number but I doubt it. It would be nice if it was made of a more “substantial” material. I have posted in the past that the crack was located in the center front where there are two rivets, and how I reinforced it. I have had to reinforce a crack on the replacement lid so that makes two that have developed a crack in the same location, and I know of at least one other member who after I posted informed me that he had a crack in the same location. I suspect many 5.0TA owners have s similar crack on the lid that they haven’t noticed.

[Jim Bennett]

I had to replace the cover to my hatch after a hail storm. In doing so I found out that Escape has used different 2 or 3 sizes over the years. They did help me get the right one figured out. Not sure of the model number but do know that some companies dimensions vary. It is best to get a confirmation of the hatch lid size to ensure a good fit.

While these units are not the best of quality, I find they do work good and replacing with something else would be too much trouble to do, likely including cutting the hole larger.

I had originally ordered the 90007-C1 which did not fit, after going over it with Dave from Escape he said they have also used the 90008-C1 and it was likely used the in 2017. I confirmed the lid size and ordered. This one fits.

[iamunique127]

I also ordered the wrong replacement lid but got it figured out the second time.

I don’t remember what the opening rail looks like or how easy it would be to remove the rail from a new unit and retrofit an existing hatch but that may work for you.

As others have done, and is described in other threads, I tried to mitigate or slowdown future UV damage to the hatch by painting it with Krylon paint. It looks a lot better now, being white, than the old yellowed hatch. And it still lets through plenty of light.

The base of the escape hatch seemed as brittle as the lid I replaced and I’m afraid it will shatter if we ever need to actually escape through it. Until then we’ll be careful when any contact is necessary.

It would be nice to have a better escape hatch option so let us know if you come across anything.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I had originally ordered the 90007-C1 which did not fit, after going over it with Dave from Escape he said they have also used the 90008-C1 and it was likely used the in 2017. I confirmed the lid size and ordered. This one fits.

That is interesting Jim. Looking at newer 5.0TAs than mine, it does not seem readily apparent that ETI is using a different sized hatch. Is the 90008-C1 larger that the 90007-C1? I’m curious what the cause of it not fitting was.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

That is interesting Jim. Looking at newer 5.0TAs than mine, it does not seem readily apparent that ETI is using a different sized hatch. Is the 90008-C1 larger that the 90007-C1? I’m curious what the cause of it not fitting was.

I have no idea on the reason for changing, availability maybe? The size difference is not a huge amount. I can very easily get out sit up on my roof with the screen open, not that I do it often but there are some sites that bit of height makes scenery viewing easier.

[Scambo1]

My hatch lasted two years. POS. I saved the old one to se if an air conditioner duct shop would make me one out of metal. Just glue on the gasket and drill holes for the hinge/hardware. I haven’t done it yet, out of sight out of mind.

[WannaBeEscaped]

90007 is the 13”x20”, the 90008 is the 15”x22”, as per their website (https://hengsindustries.com/products/exit-vents/).

So ours stripped also; we’re here in Whitehorse, YK, found the replacement mechanism (JRC1000R-C; shoutout to Fraserway RV, who opened the parts store when it was closed on a holiday weekend!!), but I can’t figure out how to get the slider part off of the track! It’s a solid channel track, with no exit except at the ends which I reach about 1/2” short of. Any suggestions anyone with experience? (Sorry, I don’t know how to attach photos from my iPhone.)

Put it back together and will tape it down for rain until we next reach service again down the road.

Thanks!

Duane

Good news follow-up! My wife wisely suggested I ask the Fraserway rental office about it. And they had a mechanic on duty! The answer is there are two tiny screws each on front and back that holds the track onto the lid. Remove them and the track slides off the arm of the operator mechanism. 15 minutes, and they didn’t charge us!!

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by WannaBeEscaped

but I can’t figure out how to get the slider part off of the track! It’s a solid channel track, with no exit except at the ends which I reach about 1/2” short of. Any suggestions anyone with experience? (Sorry, I don’t know how to attach photos from my iPhone.)

I haven't replaced that particular vent yet, but the 14x14 I DID replace required poking a screwdriver into the track and lifting the portion that was 'pinched' keeping the vent from creeping out. Does this make sense?