SmartPlug Removable Power Connector

[gklott]

Originally Posted by R.Best

I asked ETI to install a Smart Plug on my 2019 E19, but they declined, apparently because it slowed the production line to install aftermarket products. Not very forward thinking in my opinion. I plan to convert to the new system shortly!

ETI's hesitation may stem from 2014 CSA Z240.6.2-14/C22.2 No. 148-14, Electrical Requirements for Recreational Vehicles. Table 1 specifies that a 30A attachment plug configuration must be of type "X-30P" under CSA 22.2 No. 42. Interpreting this as requiring a NEMA L5-30P is reasonable.

SmartPlug is ETL listed to UL-817, Cord Sets and Power-Supply Cords, CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 21, UL-514D, and CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 42.1.

There is a new CSA C22.2-2020, and hopefully the attachment plug to the trailer specification will catch up with technology soon. Given ETI's customer focus, I suspect Karl will be open to the SmartPlug option as codes allow.

73/gus

[gjsheldon]

Originally Posted by gklott

ETI's hesitation may stem from 2014 CSA Z240.6.2-14/C22.2 No. 148-14, Electrical Requirements for Recreational Vehicles. Table 1 specifies that a 30A attachment plug configuration must be of type "X-30P" under CSA 22.2 No. 42. Interpreting this as requiring a NEMA L5-30P is reasonable.

SmartPlug is ETL listed to UL-817, Cord Sets and Power-Supply Cords, CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 21, UL-514D, and CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 42.1.

There is a new CSA C22.2-2020, and hopefully the attachment plug to the trailer specification will catch up with technology soon. Given ETI's customer focus, I suspect Karl will be open to the SmartPlug option as codes allow.

73/gus

I'm going to trust you on this one!

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by gjsheldon

I'm going to trust you on this one!

Respectfully what kind of plumbing and electrical codes ? What refrigerator installation , Brake wiring ? Never thought would purchase a new trailer and have to fix so much . And I know the majority of RV manufacturers do the same . Pat

[Hawkeye Ed]

Has anyone compared the exterior dimensions of the SmartPlug stainless inlet to see if it will cover up the center hole and screw holes in the trailer body that will be left when the standard plastic inlet for the non-removable cord is removed? I can't find the stainless inlet dimensions on the SmartPlug web site and want the modification to look good if I do it.

Thanks

Ed

[gklott]

I've attached the detailed inlet dimension drawing.

73/gus

[gjsheldon]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye Ed

Has anyone compared the exterior dimensions of the SmartPlug stainless inlet to see if it will cover up the center hole and screw holes in the trailer body that will be left when the standard plastic inlet for the non-removable cord is removed? I can't find the stainless inlet dimensions on the SmartPlug web site and want the modification to look good if I do it.

Thanks

Ed

From what I have been able to determine the SmartPlug will NOT completely cover the hole ETI has to create for their current removable power cord option (nor for the non-removable power cord exit hole). This is not based on an actual comparison but from photos sent to me by ETI. This is why I elected to have the "non-removable" power cord option installed WITHOUT cutting the normal exit hole for the wired cord. They have agreed to run the cord out the rear P/S hatch for setup and testing the power systems prior to delivery. I will then install the SmartPlug and re-wire the power cord to it. (Thanks to "Patandlinda" for this suggestion).
I have attached the photos they sent me for others to review. The first shows the removable plug from the inside of the trailer. The second shows the thickness of the wall for bolt length determination using the SmartPlug power port. Open to enlightenment on this topic as well.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by gjsheldon

From what I have been able to determine the SmartPlug will NOT completely cover the hole ETI has to create for their current removable power cord option (nor for the non-removable power cord exit hole). This is not based on an actual comparison but from photos sent to me by ETI. This is why I elected to have the "non-removable" power cord option installed WITHOUT cutting the normal exit hole for the wired cord. They have agreed to run the cord out the rear P/S hatch for setup and testing the power systems prior to delivery. I will then install the SmartPlug and re-wire the power cord to it. (Thanks to "Patandlinda" for this suggestion).
I have attached the photos they sent me for others to review. The first shows the removable plug from the inside of the trailer. The second shows the thickness of the wall for bolt length determination using the SmartPlug power port. Open to enlightenment on this topic as well.

Something else you can do . I purchased a electrical plate and painted it . Cut the cut I needed . Used stainless screws . Used washers and nuts on plate and my Smart Plug . It has been there for years now . The hole Escape had made was huge so that is how I solved it . Pat

[gklott]

Originally Posted by gjsheldon

From what I have been able to determine the SmartPlug will NOT completely cover the hole ETI has to create for their current removable power cord option (nor for the non-removable power cord exit hole).

I installed our SmartPlug in the ETI removable cord inlet hole without modification to the larger hole. The upper two mounting holes matched. I had to drill the lower two mounting holes. I put some 3M sealant in the third ETI mounting hole. The stainless steel and gasket completely covered the original ETI removable code inlet opening.

From the inside:


Turns out the ground is connected inside the SmartPlug to the stainless steel, so I really did not need to add the grounding jumper.

73/gus

[gjsheldon]

Originally Posted by gklott

I installed our SmartPlug in the ETI removable cord inlet hole without modification to the larger hole. The upper two mounting holes matched. I had to drill the lower two mounting holes. I put some 3M sealant in the third ETI mounting hole. The stainless steel and gasket completely covered the original ETI removable code inlet opening.

From the inside:


Turns out the ground is connected inside the SmartPlug to the stainless steel, so I really did not need to add the grounding jumper.

73/gus

Hmm, wish I had known that before I finalized my order. From the pictures I received and seeing the size of the outside "connection" it appeared that the SmartPlug would not quite cover all the holes. I also saw what Patandlinda did and wanted to avoid the coverplate option if I could. Good information for those in the future to know who want to add this as a self-install option in the future. Thanks for posting.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by gjsheldon

Hmm, wish I had known that before I finalized my order. From the pictures I received and seeing the size of the outside "connection" it appeared that the SmartPlug would not quite cover all the holes. I also saw what Patandlinds did and wanted to avoid the coverplate option if I could. Good information for those in the future to know who want to add this as a self-install option in the future. Thanks for posting.

Unfortunately for us the hole was huge . I heard that later trailers , the hole was not so huge
I had talked to Reace during the order process and he kind of steered us to not get the detachable cord as not being necessary . However we started having a tangled cord that became a pain in the a.. so found the Smart plug and have been extremely happy . Pat

[Hawkeye Ed]

Originally Posted by gklott

I've attached the detailed inlet dimension drawing.

73/gus

Thanks to gklott I downloaded the dimensional drawing of the inlet, printed it at actual size, and here's the answer to my question about how the SmartPlug size compares to the size of the inlet for the non-removable cord. Guess I'll be waiting a while to make the conversion.

[MVA]

We just got home after a long multi-week trip. The original detectable trailer-side mounted plug lid was not staying closed and was open as the trailer was being towed. It is not clear to me from the comments on the forum if the SmartPlug (B30ASSY) will be a "drop-in" replacement for my current removable hardware on the trailer. There is a metallic version (B30ASSY-NT) and a non-metallic version (B30ASSY-PW) of the SmartPlug; are one or both of these a drop-in replacement?

Thanks in advance.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by MVA

It is not clear to me from the comments on the forum if the SmartPlug (B30ASSY) will be a "drop-in" replacement for my current removable hardware on the trailer. There is a metallic version (B30ASSY-NT) and a non-metallic version (B30ASSY-PW) of the SmartPlug; are one or both of these a drop-in replacement?

Unscrew the three old ETI-installed inlet screws, remove inlet, and remove wires. The SmartPlug inlet's top two mounting holes matched, and the SmartPlug inlet's main body fit in the existing large hole. We drilled the two mounting holes on the bottom. We used all stainless lock nuts, washers, and machine screws, not the ETI screws. I was under the bed with the socket, and Mary had the screwdriver on the outside.

Attached shows ours, outside and inside (end cover removed). You do not need the extra ground wire shown. The metal part of the plug is connected internally to the ground lead.

We bought the C30303BM30NT stainless kit, with the inlet and the new cord set. We later purchased a separate plug (BF30), which converted our old ETI supplied cable to a SmartPlug spare cable.

Replacement took an hour.

White or stainless - matter of style. We like the stainless look.

Don't forget the CSA (Canada) or NEC (US) required warning label.

73/gus

[MVA]

Thanks Gus. I will order a set.

[CharlesinGA]

The Smart Plug is designed to replace a Marinco plug with four screws (the square one), They claim it is a perfect fit. I used a Marinco square one when I converted by Bigfoot from a mouse hole/rat hole cord to a twist lock variety. I installed a 1/8 thick aluminum plate in the place of the original door and frame for the cord stowage compartment and used aircraft nut plates riveted inside, and stainless 10-32 screws on the outside, so I never have to access the back side to remove the power inlet.

I considered the Smart Plug and may switch to it if I ever have any problems with the existing turn lock plug.

My main beef with the Smart Plug is they don't make a 90 degree or nearly so, connector to plug onto the side of the RV. I bought a cord with a 45 or 55 degree down turn for the twist lock and there is less strain on the connector and less to trip over. It also has an LED indicator in it to show that power is available.

Charles

[Doug & Betty]

We had the same problem of the cover flapping in the breeze. I called Reese about it and he said we just hadn't tapped it hard enough. He said to closed the cover and then give it a fist bump. Problem solved with no reoccurrences! There is a detent that must be engaged to make it stay shut.

I understand the desire to go with an aftermarket setup but if the flapping cover is the main reason give this a try. If it works you can move this mod down on the list...

Doug

[WanderBred]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Sorry, I can’t say for sure. Don’t remember where I got the two I have. Camping World maybe. Or an RV Parts store near me. I will check Amazon and if I find it I will post it.

OK. Edit: Available from Amazon but made by Marinco.
Do an Amazon search for “ParkPower by Marinco 30 Amp Easy Lock Sealing Ring.” About $10.

When replacing rings, it might help to run the plug and ring under hot water for 4 or 5 minutes to temporarily soften the plug material. It makes it easier to slip the threaded ring off and the ring with bayonet lugs on. They work great. No cross threading and fast connection.

I have one of those used for about 7 years sitting on my shelf in the shop.

[Radar1]

If anyone is wondering what the dimensions are for the removable cord inlet that Escape has been using recently, I found this info on the internet.
Our 2020 Escape 19 uses a CONNTEK 80425-WT inlet like the one shown.