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Old 01-31-2021, 10:23 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Because I didn't get catch that mistake ... I'll update my electrical drawing to reflect this.
We're all human (imperfect and unfinished), I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something in my learning curve.

Thanks for the clarification / update and most especially for all of the electrical expertise and experience you share on this forum!
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Old 01-31-2021, 10:59 AM   #102
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I dont know about the go power charge controller, but i do know that many charge controllers count the amp hours going in, so when the batteries get to full charge u can see how many amp hours went in, that shud tell u a good approximate number of how many amp hours u are using in a day. Just reset it to zero once a day.

Cheers
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Old 01-31-2021, 11:14 AM   #103
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Well I guess i’m somewhat lucky to fall into the “smart” camp. I’ve had cruising sailboats that I put capable battery monitoring on. I discovered, that since I just am careful with battery usage when I don’t have shore power, it didn’t really matter anyway. It just told me what I knew was happening. So, in RV’s, I just have whatever the manufacturer installs and it works okay even when off grid for 2 weeks. I also buy cheap batteries because I’ll use the trailer for several months, and then it will sit for several months. I found, while those expensive batteries on the boat lasted longer, they did not last enough longer to pay for the extra cost. I know some have other experiences, but this is what has worked for me for much lower cost than the fancy systems I used in the past.
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Old 01-31-2021, 02:02 PM   #104
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If I can jump in and ask a bunch of dumb questions:

I have a deposit in on an Escape 19, planning a boondocking rig with dual lithium and solar. I'm not keen on the sharp edged standoff mount solar that ETI offers. I'd really like to do the three panel Lensun stick-on approach that I saw here by Mark B1.

Can this be dead simple? Like, if I order the trailer with the Lithium batteries and then also add the rooftop solar pre-wire ($200) from ETI, can I basically just stick these panels on, clip the wires over to the port, and plug them in?

What else to consider? I was thinking this, plus the Zamp port so that I can add another portable panel later if I find I need it (probably because the trailer is in shade, or whatever.)


Appreciate any help, I'm pretty new to solar etc.
Yeah you can just clip in to the wires that Escape would install there. I did something similar with two 100w semi-flexible panels. It was WAAAY easier than I thought it would be.
I should note, I use the existing GoPower solar controller and nothing else!
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Old 03-13-2021, 01:17 PM   #105
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Which 8020 profile?

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Originally Posted by dstreight View Post
FWIW/FYI, last summer I installed 4) 8020 profiles onto the front and rear roof area of our 15A using VHB 4959 (full coverage) and then 3M 5200 around the perimeter of the profiles to seal against any water intrusion to the VHB tape. Super solid.
Did you use 8020 series 10, part 1003 or 1003-S? Did you run a continuous 4959 1" tape along the profile's smooth side to attach to the roof?

73/gus
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Old 03-13-2021, 06:07 PM   #106
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Did you use 8020 series 10, part 1003 or 1003-S? Did you run a continuous 4959 1" tape along the profile's smooth side to attach to the roof?

73/gus
I used 40-4084-Lite as I wanted both top and side attachment options as solar panels come and go...

I used 2" wide and 1" wide 3M VHB tape that covered approximately 80% of the width of the 40-4084 and then end-to-end the length of the 40-4084.

HTHs.

Dan
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Old 03-13-2021, 10:02 PM   #107
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I mounted my 200 watt panel to my 2017 21fter using winshield eurothane , the kind they use to glue the windshields in on cars, locate where the z brackets will contact the roof and I sand the area with240 grit sandpaper lightly to ensure adhesion, I repair and sell used fiberglass campers and have used this method with no problems, bought my 2017 Escape new and first put a 100 watt panel on, then after 2 years removed it to upgrade to a 200w and i had tocut the eurothane with a knife to get it loose,!! and it has hard to cut,
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Old 03-13-2021, 10:12 PM   #108
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Oh forgot to mension, don''t squish down too hard and get the bracket down too much you want to have 3/16 to 1/4 inch of eurothane between the bracket and the roof, this is how the auto winshields are about 1/4 inch of eurothane between the glass and the car body,
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Old 03-14-2021, 12:14 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldstation View Post
I mounted my 200 watt panel to my 2017 21fter using winshield eurothane , the kind they use to glue the windshields in on cars...
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldstation View Post
...h you want to have 3/16 to 1/4 inch of eurothane between the bracket and the roof, this is how the auto winshields are about 1/4 inch of eurothane between the glass and the car body,
That's "urethane", or "polyurethane", for anyone looking for this.

Windshield adhesive is generally black; there are other polyurethane adhesives such a range from Sika (Sikaflex) including some intended for RVs, in other colours.
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