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Old 12-20-2014, 03:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
  1. Draw pattern on sheet
  2. Cut with jigsaw
  3. Sand rough edges
Not as slick as a CNC machine, but it would work.
Yeah, but I've got a bench drill press, and I would be milling aluminum. With Ron's pivot and control lever, I'll be able to use a cutter to mill the slot, the outer curved edge, and then the X-Y to remove unneeded material in the middle for weight reduction.
The drill press is truly ancient (Cast Iron Sears Craftsman - circa 1950), but durable. This'll be fun.
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Old 12-20-2014, 03:52 PM   #22
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Don, I agree, Ron's method is better... but there's always a way.
My only issue with Ron's method is putting side load on a drill press: they're for pushing a drill down, not pushing a milling cutter sideways. My drill press is really cheap and small, so I would be take it very slowly.
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Old 12-20-2014, 05:06 PM   #23
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Don, I agree, Ron's method is better... but there's always a way.
My only issue with Ron's method is putting side load on a drill press: they're for pushing a drill down, not pushing a milling cutter sideways. My drill press is really cheap and small, so I would be take it very slowly.
Yup. Use of aluminum is the reason I'd try it. Sharp tools and small, incremental cuts. Besides, it's ever so much fun scattering light weight aluminum particles all over the work bench area and the floor.
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Old 12-20-2014, 05:27 PM   #24
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I have used a router with a carbide bit on aluminum a few times before, and have cut thick bar stock and pipe with a carbide tipped blade in a chop saw. Just use a bit of WD-40 for lubricant, and gauge your feed by the sound of the motor. Works slick.
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Old 12-20-2014, 05:28 PM   #25
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Yeah, but I've got a bench drill press, and I would be milling aluminum. With Ron's pivot and control lever, I'll be able to use a cutter to mill the slot, the outer curved edge, and then the X-Y to remove unneeded material in the middle for weight reduction.
The drill press is truly ancient (Cast Iron Sears Craftsman - circa 1950), but durable. This'll be fun.
That's it exactly

I have some ancient tools also but, yes, cast iron, not plastic and very durable. Ah, those little aluminum chips, boy do I ever hear it when they get tracked upstairs. Wife: Me: oops, sorry it won't happen again

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Old 12-20-2014, 06:17 PM   #26
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Nice work Ron
An idea, a little ingenuity and a solid result.
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Old 12-21-2014, 02:11 PM   #27
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I like it and have only two questions.I am presuming that you lift that whole panel up above the roof of the trailer and then lower it for travel.So how heavy and awkward is it to lift up for an old guy and would it work as well attached to the back bumper without causing to much weight back there.
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Old 12-21-2014, 04:15 PM   #28
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Just working on mounting the post it sits on between rain showers

Yes, it sits on a bottom post, flat but operating, while underway. To raise it I have to lift it off the post, insert a 4' tube and lift that tube and panel up. Weight of the assembly is 22 lbs. and the lift is to chest height. Should have some photos in the next few days.

Funny you should mention the rear. That's probably my next target. I already have a bike rack I made. Its' 2" square aluminum tube so mounting a socket for the 2" round tube is easy. That panel would likely be stored vertically, close to the back of the trailer while underway.

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Old 12-21-2014, 04:32 PM   #29
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Just working on mounting the post it sits on between rain showers

Yes, it sits on a bottom post, flat but operating, while underway. To raise it I have to lift it off the post, insert a 4' tube and lift that tube and panel up. Weight of the assembly is 22 lbs. and the lift is to chest height. Should have some photos in the next few days.

Funny you should mention the rear. That's probably my next target. I already have a bike rack I made. Its' 2" square aluminum tube so mounting a socket for the 2" round tube is easy. That panel would likely be stored vertically, close to the back of the trailer while underway.

Ron
Thanks,think I could manage 22b.That was my thought mounting it on the rear,so it could then travel vertical.I have the bike rack ready on my bumper and don't take a bike so would be a good spot to mount it.I see a project coming up.
One other question ,did you wire the solar panels in ,or are they still portable with a quick connect to battery?
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Old 12-21-2014, 05:02 PM   #30
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Ron, have you considered telescoping tubes, and a simple pulley rig (like that used in each post of a tent trailer) to lift the panel? Not necessary, any more than the whole swiveling and rotating mount idea, but interesting to build...
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:12 PM   #31
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No. Getting tubes that nest without using bushings etc. isn't worth the effort. No, to any mechanism. KISS I just put it on the post for the first time. No big effort.

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Old 12-21-2014, 06:16 PM   #32
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KISS
Methinks you went well beyond the simple stage here, Ron.
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:40 PM   #33
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No. Getting tubes that nest without using bushings etc. isn't worth the effort. No, to any mechanism. KISS I just put it on the post for the first time. No big effort.
Thanks for the answer... and the reasoning makes sense to me (not that it needs to!)

Next - how will you lock the mount against rotation on the post, once it is aimed? Some sort of clamp, I would guess.
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:30 PM   #34
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Next - how will you lock the mount against rotation on the post, once it is aimed? Some sort of clamp, I would guess.
A pin and with multiple holes is mechanically strong and simple but since I'm going for infinite adjustability, then, yes, some sort of clamp seems to be the way to go. Haven't figured that one out yet

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Old 12-21-2014, 08:06 PM   #35
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A pin and with multiple holes is mechanically strong and simple but since I'm going for infinite adjustability, then, yes, some sort of clamp seems to be the way to go. Haven't figured that one out yet

Ron
Maybe a clamp like the ones used on bicycle seat posts? Bigger diameter of course.
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:14 PM   #36
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A pin and with multiple holes is mechanically strong and simple but since I'm going for infinite adjustability, then, yes, some sort of clamp seems to be the way to go. Haven't figured that one out yet

Ron
A marine table pedestal clamp?
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:44 PM   #37
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Besides, it's ever so much fun scattering light weight aluminum particles all over the work bench area and the floor.
Then just a simple swipe with an aluminum magnet and the work bench is all tidied up.
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:47 AM   #38
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Maybe a clamp like the ones used on bicycle seat posts? Bigger diameter of course.
Exactly what I was thinking! Since a lot of force is not required, actual bike hardware might work well (the nut, bolt, and cam/lever) and only the strap around the tube would need to be fabricated. It's under $5 in hardware to try it.
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Old 12-22-2014, 12:50 PM   #39
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Then just a simple swipe with an aluminum magnet and the work bench is all tidied up. Lyle


I believe James Clerk Maxwell would disagree.


Since a lot of force is not required, actual bike hardware might work well (the nut, bolt, and cam/lever) and only the strap around the tube would need to be fabricated. It's under $5 in hardware to try it. Brian


Brian, That's a downright elegant solution. Wow! This forum is such a marvelous way to solve the world's problems.
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Old 12-22-2014, 06:15 PM   #40
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[QUOTE=dfandrews;77331 and the work bench is all tidied up. Lyle
[/QUOTE]

If my workbench was ever tidied up I'd be really worried. How would I ever find anything

Some good suggestions and I'm trying a couple of things. The only solution that I have ruled out is slotting the socket tube so the clamping action will work. A light sliding fit is important and that solution would probably deform the tube making future in and out actions difficult.

I'll keep working on it but I suppose I should stop playing with it and get out and do my Christmas shopping. I know, I know, there's still 2 full shopping days left but I thought I'd try doing my shopping early for a change.

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