Tongue Jack with 3/4" Socket Drive

[msweet]

Has anyone converted their tongue jack to use the same 3/4" socket drive as the scissor jacks? I am thinking of removing the handle and converting so I can use a impact driver to raise and lower along with my stabilizers.


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[StarvingHyena]

Originally Posted by msweet

Has anyone converted their tongue jack to use the same 3/4" socket drive as the scissor jacks? I am thinking of removing the handle and converting so I can use a impact driver to raise and lower along with my stabilizers.


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I have been thinking about doing the same .... but doubt you won't need an impact drill. It would be much quieter using a regular cordless drill. Your neighbors will thank you.

On the other hand ... maybe I won't do this .... the jack handle turns easily and needing your drill is just one more thing to break and leave you to figure out how to crank up or down.

On the other hand .... I have thought about welding a drive shaft in the center and leaving the handle alone ... course you'd have to put your drill on slow with that handle swinging around but you would have a back up.

Tom

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by msweet

Has anyone converted their tongue jack to use the same 3/4" socket drive as the scissor jacks? I am thinking of removing the handle and converting so I can use a impact driver to raise and lower along with my stabilizers.

Why not just install a power jack? 3 bolts, one wire. Easy peezy, and no need for external equipment.

[Brian B-P]

Since the motor of a power jack can be in the way of tailgates and hatches, I can see the appeal of using a power tool instead... especially if the external power tool would be carried anyway, such as for the stabilizer jacks.

Rather than leaving the handle in place, another way to have a manual backup to a jack converted to power-driven is just to carry a handle that works with the new drive connection... like the stock crank for the stabilizing jacks.

If you use a 3/8" square socket, a power drill or impact driver will fit directly, you can use a common extension bar if you want, and a speeder handle can be the manual backup.

Even with a 3/4" hex drive (like the stabilizer jacks), you would use a socket so the same speeder handle (with that socket) can be a manual backup.

[Brian B-P]

It's a Braber Equipment BE-130 jack, which is shown in their catalog, but I haven't found a parts breakdown on their website which might help determine if the handle can readily be replaced with a shaft with a hex or square drive end. It does look like a very common design, so someone may have already done this mod, or someone may have a suitable diagram (for another brand of the same design):

Round A-Frame Trailer Jack - Sidewind - 15-5/8" Travel - 5,000 lbs etrailer Trailer Jack TJA-5000S-B
Bulldog Round, A-Frame Jack - Sidewind - 15" Lift - 5,000 lbs Bulldog Trailer Jack BD1700100317
Pro Series Round, A-Frame Jack w/ External Gearbox - Sidewind - 14" Lift - 2,000 lbs Pro Series Trailer Jack PSRV20000103

I would probably just take those two bolts out and see what's inside...

[Brian B-P]

The replacement handle kit carried by eTrailer for the Bulldog brand equivalent shows that the handle is just a plain rod with a hole in it for a pin. That suggests to me that you could just use a long bolt with the same diameter, cut off the threaded part, and drill a hole for the pin (not a fun hole to drill, but do-able). The head of that bolt probably won't be a 3/4" hex (unless you're just lucky), but you could just carry a suitable socket to fit.

[msweet]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Why not just install a power jack? 3 bolts, one wire. Easy peezy, and no need for external equipment.

Two reasons:
1. I bought I new jack when ETI put a storage box on for me last month.
2. I prefer the manual jack with the option to use the cordless driver.


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[msweet]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Rather than leaving the handle in place, another way to have a manual backup to a jack converted to power-driven is just to carry a handle that works with the new drive connection... like the stock crank for the stabilizing jacks.

Even with a 3/4" hex drive (like the stabilizer jacks), you would use a socket so the same speeder handle (with that socket) can be a manual backup.

Exactly my thoughts.



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[msweet]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

It's a Braber Equipment BE-130 jack, which is shown in their catalog, but I haven't found a parts breakdown on their website which might help determine if the handle can readily be replaced with a shaft with a hex or square drive end. It does look like a very common design, so someone may have already done this mod, or someone may have a suitable diagram (for another brand of the same design):

Great research; thanks! I am shocked that the jacks are as cheap as $27!

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I would probably just take those two bolts out and see what's inside...

I will once I take care of a few other more pressing maintenance items... I'll post photos then.



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[msweet]

Originally Posted by StarvingHyena

I have been thinking about doing the same .... but doubt you won't need an impact drill. It would be much quieter using a regular cordless drill. Your neighbors will thank you.

I got the idea listening to my camping neighbours setup their 5th wheel using a cordless impact driver. I tried it out at home and it was really quick to setup that way. Figured converting the tongue jack to the same drive setup as the stabilizers would make setup that much faster!



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[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by msweet

Figured converting the tongue jack to the same drive setup as the stabilizers would make setup that much faster!

Although the easiest conversion will likely be to hex headed shaft (such as a bolt), I don't think it matters much what size the hex is... different sockets for the stabilizers and for the tongue jack wouldn't be too bad.

Whether the jacks are driven by hex sockets, or directly by a 3/8" square drive, the tool would still need the square drive. An cordless impact wrench usually has a square drive end (I have one of those), a non-impact driver or small impact driver usually has a 1/4" hex socket for bits and 3/8 square to 1/4 hex adapters are readily available, and a drill has a chuck which can take the same adapter. So, you have a choice of power tools, as long as the choice has enough torque and power.
Edit: improved description of power tool types

If the solution has a square drive, a flex (universal) joint would be a good addition. For this purpose, it needs to be a power-drive or impact joint, not the basic hand-tool joint.

[msweet]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Although the easiest conversion will likely be to hex headed shaft (such as a bolt), I don't think it matters much what size the hex is... different sockets for the stabilizers and for the tongue jack wouldn't be too bad.



Whether the jacks are driven by hex sockets, or directly by a 3/8" square drive, the tool would still need the square drive. An impact driver has a square drive end, a non-impact driver usually has a 1/4" hex socket for bits and 3/8 square to 1/4 hex adapters are readily available, and a drill has a chuck which can take the same adapter. So, you have a choice of power tools, as long as the choice has enough torque and power.



If the solution has a square drive, a flex (universal) joint would be a good addition. For this purpose, it needs to be a power-drive or impact joint, not the basic hand-tool joint.

I have a cordless impact driver that takes a 1/4" hex shank. It is intended for driving screws, etc using driver bits. I bought a pack of 1/4" hex to 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" square adapters. I use the 1/4" hex to 1/2" square with a 3/4" socket for the stabilizer jacks.

As you mentioned it would be easy to switch the socket or the hex adapter to suit whichever solution works. The risk would be losing that 2nd socket at the bottom of the storage box...




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[cpaharley2008]

I tried to take mine apart awhile back and the jack I had could not be reassembled. I ended up purchasing a jack with a removable handle because that was the point where the tailgate would interfere. Later on I purchased and still use the Jack_E-UP system.

[msweet]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I tried to take mine apart awhile back and the jack I had could not be reassembled. I ended up purchasing a jack with a removable handle because that was the point where the tailgate would interfere. Later on I purchased and still use the Jack_E-UP system.

Thanks for the caution!

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[War Eagle]

Michael, I've attached a few photos of a similar thing I fabricated to make detachable front corner stabilizers for our EggCamper. The jacks I used are pipe-mount, removable top crank. I simply pulled the bolt to remove the original top handle, drilled two holes in a short piece of 1/2" pipe, and sawed off a bolt and drilled a hole through it. My plan was to use a portable 90 degree drill to crank it up and down, but for stabilizing, I can simply use my fingers to tighten it. In the last photo, I made a PVC cap to keep rain and heavy dew out of the jack. Dale

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I tried to take mine apart awhile back and the jack I had could not be reassembled.

Was it the same design as shown in this thread? The instruction manual for the Bulldog (and Pro Series) brand equivalent shows those two bolts and the top cover removed for routine lubrication, as shown in the image attached below.

If the pin which holds the gear on the crank shaft is driven out it could be quite difficult to replace, although that pin is provided as part of the replacement crank kit.

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, that looks familiar, some of the pieces are held in place with bent metal tabs, once the are tampered with, several broke.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Yes, that looks familiar, some of the pieces are held in place with bent metal tabs, once the are tampered with, several broke.

How far did you take that jack apart, Jim? The cover comes off with just the two bolts, it looks like the crank would come out with one pin, and that's all that would be needed to replace the crank. Do the tabs hold the top housing onto the outer tube?

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, If my memory serves right, it was 4 years ago, on my 2012 Escape.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

How far did you take that jack apart, Jim? The cover comes off with just the two bolts, it looks like the crank would come out with one pin, and that's all that would be needed to replace the crank. Do the tabs hold the top housing onto the outer tube?

Two through bolts hold the cover. Inside is a set of bevel gears. the one on the crank shaft is free-floating on the shaft, with the drift(drive) pin transmitting the shaft rotation to the gear. The flat snap ring keeps the drift pin centered and in place.

One could replace the crank shaft with a bolt the same shank diameter, cut to length (remove the threads), with a hole for the drift pin. That would give you a hex head to drive with a power tool.