What is this U-shaped dinette you speak of? - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:53 PM   #21
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Do you need 110V ( full service site or generator ) to run the TV or power the antenna? I'm trying to understand.
My TV runs on 12V or 110V. The 110V cord steps the power down to 12V before plugging into the TV. I can run it on the 110V in full service site or off the battery with the 12 V cord.
The bigger issue is current draw.. The newer LED backlit sets use very little power. My 19in uses 35w max at 120v. Less then most laptops. I've been running it on a 150w fan less (silent :-) converter that I also use to charge computers, iPads, phones etc. Reese installed 12v outlets front and back in my unit. I just plug in the inverter where i need the power at that moment. Tend to just run the the TV for just a couple of hours in the evening. In the summer the solar charging has the battery back up to 100%
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:03 PM   #22
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I just plug in the inverter where i need the power at that moment.
What type of unit do you have? Do you have a picture or model number?
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:17 PM   #23
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Seems odd to convert 12v to 120v and then back to 12v, why not skip the inverter and just use 12v for your tv?
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:37 PM   #24
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Seems odd to convert 12v to 120v and then back to 12v, why not skip the inverter and just use 12v for your tv?
Actually that would also be wasteful.. Lots of losses in those conversions unfortunately my 19 is a 120v model. $109 on a close out for a led backlit samsung with digital hd tuner.. The price was right
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:45 PM   #25
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check the voltage on the little black tv converter- if it is around 12-14v output then just use a 12v plug, it will work.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:47 PM   #26
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What type of unit do you have? Do you have a picture or model number?
Tripp Lite PV150 under $30 on the Amazon US site, a little over $40 on their Canadian site. 115 reviews 4.5 stars. Physically bigger then some of the others of that capacity because it uses the aluminum case to dissipate heat without a fan. Keeps the evening quiet so you can hear the birds and the bees
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:52 PM   #27
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check the voltage on the little black tv converter- if it is around 12-14v output then just use a 12v plug, it will work.
No exterior converter on my set.. Just a 120 volt detachable cord.
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:05 PM   #28
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Got a link to the mount your using for your application?
I'm using a Premier hang down tv mount. I have used one in two (including my current) Casita's for several years and they work great. My television is a 19" Element from Best Buys. It runs on 110 but has a separate power supply that maybe is 12v or some foreign voltage. I hide it all behind the tv out of sight.

I put a reinforcement piece on the inside of the cabinet and all is good. I don't even fold my tv up when I'm on the road. 6 years and no problems. I don't have any pictures but can take one if you want.

Check it out on Amazon. Sorry I can't send a link, it keeps taking me back to my own personal account page. I like you guys but I'll keep that info to myself!
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:45 PM   #29
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I'm using a Premier hang down tv mount. I have used one in two (including my current) Casita's for several years and they work great. My television is a 19" Element from Best Buys. It runs on 110 but has a separate power supply that maybe is 12v or some foreign voltage. I hide it all behind the tv out of sight.

I put a reinforcement piece on the inside of the cabinet and all is good. I don't even fold my tv up when I'm on the road. 6 years and no problems. I don't have any pictures but can take one if you want.

Check it out on Amazon. Sorry I can't send a link, it keeps taking me back to my own personal account page. I like you guys but I'll keep that info to myself!
That's exactly what I'm looking to do. Permanently mount it at an angle high in the fridge corner out of the way. And have it rigid enough that nothing shakes loose during travel. I'm heading over to check out amazon now
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:17 PM   #30
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That's exactly what I'm looking to do. Permanently mount it at an angle high in the fridge corner out of the way. And have it rigid enough that nothing shakes loose during travel. I'm heading over to check out amazon now
Good deal. Seriously though, think about the rear corner. It's easy to move 110v back there and it viewable from most of the trailer.

I just checked with the manufacturer and they're on sale for $47 with no tax and free shipping!

http://www.premiermountsstore.com/in...netmounts.aspx
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:12 PM   #31
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Good deal. Seriously though, think about the rear corner. It's easy to move 110v back there and it viewable from most of the trailer.

I just checked with the manufacturer and they're on sale for $47 with no tax and free shipping!

Monitor and TV Mounts for Cabinets | Inside and Under
Actually with my lounge sitting arrangement it's better not to in that corner especially if your sitting across the rear lounge bench My power and cable TV connections are in that fridge corner so the hook up would be easier for me there.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:09 AM   #32
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I wonder how hard it would be to convert my stock 19' bed to a "U" shaped dinette area. Maybe Escape will put together a package including cabinet doors and cushions? I really like that setup.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:30 AM   #33
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I think this layout is stellar! As a single traveler, I soooo desire a comfortable seating area at the back to view the vistas out the back window. It's the one thing that keeps driving me toward's a 5th wheel.

Hummmm.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:04 PM   #34
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I think this layout is stellar! As a single traveler, I soooo desire a comfortable seating area at the back to view the vistas out the back window. It's the one thing that keeps driving me toward's a 5th wheel.

Hummmm.
And as a fellow single traveller I also desired a comfortable sleeping area at the back that was quick to make up and put away. I ordered the rear bench and bottom cushions 28" wide across the back of the trailer. Kind of ends up like sleeping on a sofa with a view
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:35 PM   #35
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I wonder how hard it would be to convert my stock 19' bed to a "U" shaped dinette area. Maybe Escape will put together a package including cabinet doors and cushions? I really like that setup.
ModJim, I like that U dinette, too. In thinking about the sleeping area though, our bedding would have to be cut up which I don't think I could bear to do. I much prefer the bedding to cushions.

The front dinette might be a good place for such a conversion. The front would be smaller and with no making up the bed all the time. It would involve so much less work to do a conversion up there. I could see just making an underlay board for the front and adding a couple of cushions. Then cutting down the table or getting a smaller one.

A bed area conversion would really be a big deal but then you have done so much already that you could probably do it yourself.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:17 AM   #36
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I brought up the notion of converting the dinette in a 17A to something more comfortable in another thread. I'm really not a fan of the standard dinettes. But, the thread didn't go very far. Not a lot of ideas.

With the 17A you have the advantage of a slightly larger area (49" on the 17A vs 40" on the 19, not to mention the bathroom closet position on the 19 restricts access somewhat).

My current thought is to simply remove the table and replace it with a smaller round table when it's just the wife and I camping. Something big enough for the two of us to eat at, but with more room around it when we're lounging around. Depending on how the existing table fits to the floor, I'll try to reuse the existing attachments.

It might be just as good to simply remove the table and bring along a couple of tv trays when it's just the two of us...

But I'd still like to hear other ideas. And for the smaller table in the 19 as well as that in the 17A, since I haven't decided with any certainty which way we'll go.

To address Harley's question: how difficult would it be to convert an existing bed? It won't be easy, but it's certainly doable. I'd be willing to bet the the existing cabinet face could be removed in tact, and so could be reused in the new layout. You'd need to add support for the new lip, finish the faces of the sides, finish the floor. But Cathy is right: you'd need to replace your full-sized queen mattress with cushions. That would be a real loss in my mind.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:25 AM   #37
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The floor is already done, underneath the bed . There are several wires and water lines that would have to be relocated down to the floor and covered along the bump up step that is under the bed but is in all 19's. These run behind the front opening doors along the existing bed bottom. Making the front into a full sized bed with a 2" memory foam top would make it 8" high and comparable to the rear. My cushions are already 6" thick. It is something to think about when I install my new wood floor, making room for the relocated utilities.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:45 AM   #38
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We like the size of the dinette table in our 19. The full surface is often used, whether just the two of us, other friends playing cards on a miserable night, or for support when made into a bed.

It is mostly just the two of use, and the back side of the table is used as a marshaling area for us, a bit of a holding area. Even with stuff like computers, books, or whatever on the table, we still have enough room to sit and eat.

We could get away with a smaller table, and unless to space is used just as effectively another way, I am happy with the size it is.

If anything, I would have made the seats not as deep, and maybe the table a wee bit narrower, and provide a bin type storage behind the drivers side seat.

There is not a chance in hell my wife would ever give up our full time queen bed. I do tend to agree with her (and not because I have to either......really. )
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:50 AM   #39
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I hear you Jim. I hadn't considered the use of the table as a staging area.

How do you find access to the driver's side of the dinette? I believe the table slides to provide easier access. Is this effective, or do you run into problems with people bumping the table, spilling drinks, or whatever?

The slightly larger dinette in the 17A is one of it's strong selling features, but is it worth giving up 6" of bed width?
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:27 AM   #40
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Doug, the access to the drivers side of the dinette is not too bad at all, we are quite used to it. The table sliding table setup works great. There is a bit of wobble to the supports, but nothing that has caused any accidents. I have considered upgrading it to something more solid, but that is very low on my list of priorities as far as mods go.
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