Wiring solar and inverter Escape 19

[ChuckBC]

My 2017 E19 doesn't have solar, inverter and battery monitor. Batteries are 2x6V in front box. I am just in the process of raising dinette and want to consider at this time the design and framing of benches to accommodate planned electrical upgrades. I struggle with electrical but can do hands on mods. Plan is to add a 200W solar panel (rear roof) and a small 450W battery wired inverter. No plans to add more panels. Inverter size to accommodate USB and computer charging only.

Questions I have are:

Do trailers without a factory installed panel have glassed in roof backing blocks beyond fibreglass skin. If so what approximate location?

Is it possible to reduce multiple positive and negative wires exiting trailer to the battery box? Could short length larger gauge fused positive and a negative supply wiring to blocks/buss bars, negative shunt in dinette bench box work for battery monitor, converter, solar and inverter connections?

I am on Vancouver Island and is there another owner that has or will be tackling electrical upgrades?

[Doug2000]

Watching for responses.

[cpaharley2008]

I can relay what was done in 2014 when Escape sent out kits to secure the solar panels that were originally glued to the trailer. We drilled holes and inserted nuts and washers, bolts and proflex over the holes. No wood inside. As far as current builds, I'm sure the factory can tell you or look at the build pictures for any solar ceiling supports.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by ChuckBC

...
Plan is to add a 200W solar panel (rear roof) and a small 450W battery wired inverter. No plans to add more panels.
...

Hello Chuck,
I'm pretty certain I can not address your specific question regarding the construction under the skin, and perhaps very few of us can. But if you are concerned about mounting a 200W panel I can offer another solution.
A pair of 100W, semi-flexible panels can give you the same total power but have the advantage of easy mounting, lighter weight and easier to deal with. Plus, if they are wired in parallel could provide some power even if one panel was in the shade.

Another suggestion - keep the option open to use a suitcase portable panel in case you are camped in deep shade. The portable with 30 or 50 feet of wire might do wonders to prevent total battery discharge if it can be moved into a sunny patch. Its also a great addition for late season camping when the sun is always at low angles. I have measured 3X the power coming from a panel aimed directly at the January sun vs the same panel set flat.
--
Alan

[ChuckBC]

Thanks Jim and Alan.

Regarding solar panel(s) I was reflecting back on our last B class motorhome which had just a 95W roof panel and we managed even with 3 day of boondocking. Difference would be moving motorhome more since it was our vehicle, hence the increased alternator charging and exposure to sun.

I am still on the fence with flexible panels since my experience was rigid panels on a boat and motorhome. I am doing my research and will need to decide.

The portable is a good idea and I do have a generator. I would like to install the Wildcat conversion in my converter to take advantage of the effective 3 stage and equalization potential.

Trailer now is a bit of a blank canvas but too many options. Want to keep it as simple as possible. What started out as a dinette mod has turned into countless hours of internet surfing on RV electrical and electronics.

[fudge_brownie]

I can not answer your specific questions but would like to add some suggestions for you to evaluate. The portable panel solution has worked the best for us. Mainly due to campsites under a tree canopy. Realize that a portable panel will limit you to a 12 volt system and a max of 200 watts.

I recently converted to a MPPT controller by Victron, the SmartSolar. For a reasonable cost by the way.

The feature that Victron has, is built in remote battery monitoring using a smart phone. No need for wires or a hard to read display. It is quite effective.

[Doug2000]

Jim Bennet has the best install. I'm not in favor of mounting rigid panels on our roof. I don't want to drill any more holes. I might install one semi flexible panel on my roof just to keep the battery fresh while in storage. I mostly camp under tree cover. If I'm not camping under trees, I likely have services like KOA.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...ion-10273.html

[AKCamper]

We have a Renogy portable 100 watt panel which seems to work for us, but we are frugal with our power usage. I am in the process of building a 200 watt array that will tilt in four different directions which will mount on our truck canopy. Hope to have it completed in the spring.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by ChuckBC

Inverter size to accommodate USB and computer charging only.

For USB, you're better off using 12V USB 'car' chargers. I just got this new one for my newer USB C devices, it can charge 2 18 watt devices at once, and is compatible with both PD and QC3 specs, it charges both my Pixel 3A phone and my Huawei tablet really fast. I've added an extra 12V 'cigar' lighter socket near my dinette as the one on my 21 wasn't very handy.
https://www.anker.com/products/varia...i-duo/A2724011

I do carry a 200W inverter that plugs into a powerpole receptacle I added, for charging my wife's laptop (90W), and a bluetooth speaker (not many watts, but needs 19V to charge for some reason), and things like that. I try and only use that during peak sun hours so I don't take a hit off the battery.

[ChuckBC]

I got side tracked with this electrical only because I was trying to decide on dinette framing to accommodate future upgrades. We have a good idea on needs from our past RV but I think it is prudent to use the E19 this season and see what is lacking. Possibly a small plug in inverter with a portable solar unit a friend has sitting gathering dust.

We are registered for the rally and why reinvent the wheel. Ed has been very helpful with dinette plans and come spring we will be sitting higher and swivelling the Lagun.

[RJV]

I followed Jim Bennett's example and used flexible panels. I too did a lot of research and couldn't wrap my head around drilling holes in the roof to mount rigid panels. I'm really happy with the results and only had to drill the one hole to allow for the cables. The process was far less effort than I expected. I wired the system to accommodate a portable panel as well because like Doug I end up in shady situations quite often.

[RJV]

Meant to attach this to my last post ..DOH!

[ChuckBC]

Originally Posted by RJV

Meant to attach this to my last post ..DOH!

Can you clarify the cable to controller routing on your E21? Also choice of panels?

[RJV]

Originally Posted by ChuckBC

Can you clarify the cable to controller routing on your E21? Also choice of panels?

I bought my panels from Lensun online. Lensun Solar Energy Store

The only consideration you need to be aware of is the available space on the roof vs dimensions of the panel. The higher wattage panels may be to large for the space.

As far as routing is concerned, I removed the refrigerator (which took me all of 20 minutes plus an extra set of hands) and routed down through the back of that enclosure into the underseat compartment that houses the electrical control centre.

[DavidGlen]

I have a few comments:
1. Be sure to purchase a pure sine wave inverter, to protect your electronics and function properly with different appiances.

2. We have a Go Power suitcase 130 watt set of two panels that has worked very well for us when boondocking. As mentioned by others who posted here, the advantage is that the trailer can be in the shade and the suitcase in the sun. Also, no weight on the roof and no holes through the fiberglass of the roof. Site: www.gpelectric.com

3. We just purchased an Inergy Apex 'solar generator' - a portable lithium battery (25 pounds and a carrying strap) - it came with a free 100 watt solar panel, and we bought a second panel. It can be charged before leaving home, when at a campsite with electric, or with solar. It has several USB ports, two 'cigarette lighter' plugs, six 110 outlets and a 30 amp outlet for an RV. Can't wait to use it. We also plan to have it as emergency power for our house. www.inergytek.com

[ChuckBC]

Originally Posted by RJV

I bought my panels from Lensun online. Lensun Solar Energy Store

The only consideration you need to be aware of is the available space on the roof vs dimensions of the panel. The higher wattage panels may be to large for the space.

As far as routing is concerned, I removed the refrigerator (which took me all of 20 minutes plus an extra set of hands) and routed down through the back of that enclosure into the underseat compartment that houses the electrical control centre.

I do like the idea of portable getting panels in sun with improved angle but I am concerned with theft especially overnight and when leaving site for extended length of time. With roof mount it is safe, charging while the trailer is on the go and even in storage. Nothing is perfect and I can see how having a portable to supplement would work.

Quality pure sine small inverters are limited but I would like to get one.

[ChuckBC]

Originally Posted by RJV

I bought my panels from Lensun online. Lensun Solar Energy Store

The only consideration you need to be aware of is the available space on the roof vs dimensions of the panel. The higher wattage panels may be to large for the space.

As far as routing is concerned, I removed the refrigerator (which took me all of 20 minutes plus an extra set of hands) and routed down through the back of that enclosure into the underseat compartment that houses the electrical control centre.

For the Canadian buyer I'm interested always concerned about cross border landed cost. For the Lensun purchased from the UK site you posted it appears to ship from a US warehouse. What was your experience from this Seller?

I'd hope that I could get a E19 owner that mounted panels and gave me an idea of routing cable to controller.

[RJV]

Yes thats right .. they would normally supply thru that US warehouse. When I placed my order they didn't have them in stock so I ended up dealing directly with the supplier in China which was not a problem at all. The panels shipped directly to me here in AB from China. I think it took 10 12 days as I recall.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by ChuckBC

For the Canadian buyer I'm interested always concerned about cross border landed cost. For the Lensun purchased from the UK site you posted it appears to ship from a US warehouse. What was your experience from this Seller? ...

I am located in Alberta and purchased panels for my 15B from Lensun. They have a Canadian warehouse from which they shipped, so there were no import brokerage fees and I believe shipping was free. My overall experience was that they were quite helpful to deal with, the product arrived quickly and in good shape, and has performed well for over two years now. I would not hesitate to purchase from Lensun again.

[currinh]

Chuck:

I don't think there are any molded in blocks for solar. Since Escapes are a single wall shell you could look around the roof and verify though. We had Escape install a solar panel for us, after market, and they bolted through the roof with large washers (if I remember correctly).

They routed the cables through the upper cabinets to a controller in the cabinet above the kitchen. Then routed wires above the door to the front of the trailer, down behind the corner strip, across at front of dinette to electrical boxes. I've run several wires behind the corner strips, works well.

We bought a small inverter and mounted under a shelf in the dinette area. Plugged directly into it for 120V which worked well for us. You could mount it under the dinette seat and put in a dedicated 120V plug for the inverter, would work well. Likely want to turn it off when not in use to eliminate parasitic draw on the batteries. To wire the trailer so all plugs run from the inverter is a little more involved.

Originally Posted by ChuckBC

Do trailers without a factory installed panel have glassed in roof backing blocks beyond fibreglass skin. If so what approximate location?

Is it possible to reduce multiple positive and negative wires exiting trailer to the battery box? Could short length larger gauge fused positive and a negative supply wiring to blocks/buss bars, negative shunt in dinette bench box work for battery monitor, converter, solar and inverter connections?

I am on Vancouver Island and is there another owner that has or will be tackling electrical upgrades?