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Old 07-07-2024, 12:03 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
Normally the fridge runs at 37-38į no problem under any conditions, so something died.

The problem with the cooling system clogging up from being run off level Ö..would this show up as reduced efficiency over time or a sudden failure that Iím seeing ?

We always level the trailer in each campsite.

Yes, this blockage should show up as a reduced efficiency. However from the images I've seen I can envision where a large flake of the hard material breaks loose up higher in the evaporative system and falls down blocking off the passage of the evaporated ammonia. This would be a sudden loss of capacity. The images I've seen remind me of blocked arteries in the human body and how they narrow down.
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Old 07-07-2024, 12:05 PM   #22
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My plans are to eventually convert our Dometic to a 12V compressor fridge with one of these kits.

Updated link here.
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Old 07-07-2024, 12:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
Iíve hooked up my clampon ammeter and watched it for 10 minutes, steady 1.27 to 1.29 current draw, no cycling.
The line voltage coming in is 115 V.

The heater is listed at 175 W, and 1.5 Amps.
...
An engineering friend of mine calls those clamp-on ammeters 'amp guessers'. They are good for knowing there is current, and the order of magnitude, but there's a whole lot of things which can cause them to be off by 20% or more.
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Old 07-07-2024, 04:53 PM   #24
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Here's a link to that fridge protection system.
I've found your comments very informative and I took a look at the Frig Defender you linked. Seemed like a good device until I read this " It may be used on virtually all Dometic and Norcold fridges roof type venting for the cooling unit (not recommended for side-vent applications)." If I understand this correctly, the Frig Defense shouldn't be installed in a side vent trailer such as my E17A. I'll follow your practice described above and turn the frig of if i'm going to be parked off level for very long. I always disconnect the truck from the trailer and level the trailer even if I'm only stopped for the night. This is my second trailer and so far, so good.
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Old 07-08-2024, 04:54 PM   #25
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Good news

I ran the refrigerator over night on propane. It was 42į this morning. I left it running as we left home for the Maritimes.

We stopped after two hrs, refrigerator was at 34į ! Next stop at 32į, so I turned the temp adjustment on the front panel back to the midpoint where it normally sits.

Just pulled into our first campsite, refrigerator is at 37į.

I donít have electricity at his site so have not tested it on AC.

Iím wondering if the shakeup got it running again. Could there be an ďairlockĒ preventing full circulation ?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions !

Bob
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Old 07-08-2024, 08:17 PM   #26
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Interesting, so you traveled and the fridge began working as expected. So I assume the fridge power source being used (AC/DC/Gas) is cycling off at the temp setpoint now, when prior the fridge heating source was staying on continuously with the fridge not cooling to setpoint on any power source?

If nothing else changed and now when camped and not moving if the temps go back to where they were when not moving prior (low to mid-40's) then I'd suspect a cooling air flow issue and begin looking at air flow on the back side of the fridge around the condensing coils.

If the temps stay low (mid-30's) from here on out then my take on that is that vibration from traveling caused a change in the absorption cooling unit that suddenly caused it to cool properly. What that change is, is anyone's guess. Did the vibration clear a blockage? Who knows, maybe!

Here's an article on RV absorption fridges detailing failures, with pictures, due to running them off-level.
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Old 07-09-2024, 06:07 AM   #27
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Ok, it worked well while on the road yesterday, about 6hrs. This morning it was at 34į. With breakfast started, opening and closing its at 39į. Itís been on gas all this time. We drive to Bay of Fundy National Park this morning so should have electric hook up tonight and see if it continues to function on electric.

We have moved a lot of the food from the cooler to the fridge, keeping water and soft drinks in the cooler to minimize fridge door use. We have two teenaged grandkids tenting with us.

Iíll report back on the electrical story tomorrow if Iíve got internet.

Thanks again for all your help and especially the links.

Bob
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Old 07-10-2024, 05:03 AM   #28
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Refrigerator working well on AC too. We plugged in yesterday afternoon this morning itís at 38į.
Iíll keep an eye on it over the next two weeks. Iím very watchful of the levelling of the trailer.

The link on refrigerator failures was very informative. He says 85% of failures are corrosion of the cooling tubes from moisture around the freezer tubes. I suppose there isnít anyway to prevent that.

Bob
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Old 07-10-2024, 10:25 AM   #29
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Fridge on 110

After some years of defaulting to 110v for cool-off before leaving and whenever I had campground shore power, I've discovered that the unit cools faster and stays colder using the gas (LP) setting. I'm usually at 4.5 on the temp setting. This method doesn't seem to deplete my gas supply appreciably.


I use an indoor/outdoor thermometer or a fast-read digital cooking thermometer to monitor the temp. If using the former, put the sensor on one of the middle shelves, not in the door to get an accurate reading.



Just one person's experience...
Good luck





Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
My Dometic fridge has always worked well. I just got the trailer out of storage yesterday. Today itís quite warm and itís struggling to get the fridge below 40į. Usually itís been 34į to 36į. Itís is a warm day here, 90į. I have two small fans mounted inside to circulate air inside.

The fridge came from Escape with the fan in the outside cavity, Iíve heard it run before on hot days but not now ?

Iím only seeing one amp coming into the trailer on my shore power, that seems low but I donít recall what it was in the past with just the fridge running.

I moved the temp sensor down to just below the bottom of the heat exchanger, too soon to tell if that will help.

I have frozen food in the freezer that seems ok.

So the freezer works. The pipes at the back of the fridge get very hot on both electric and propane.

The refrigerator is only 46 to 53į. I adjusted the temperature setting on the control panel to max. No difference. I moved the temperature sensor to the top of the aluminum heat exchanger, closest to the freezer compartment. I suspect it is this temperature sensor that is the problem.

Bob
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