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Old 07-20-2016, 10:08 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
My RM8551 when on propane has just begun refusing to get cold. Works great on shore power but tests on propane the last 2 days have been totally bad, as in DOA-bad.

Got all fridge lights, plenty of gas, blue Piezo flame, but no refrigeration. Doing my best to not going nuclear.
Myron, Our burner looks very much the same in terms of discoloration. I took the trailer to a RV shop today that is an authorized Dometic dealer. We'll see what they can come up with.

Fred Alexander
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:21 PM   #42
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Fred, I await your findings with the greatest interest.

Meanwhile to those with suggestions thanks a lot, but trailer is level, I said blue Piezo flame is constant, and I sure don't want to be driving using the battery to cool the fridge, be restricted to campsites with shore power hookups, paying primo for something I shouldn't need, plus (Ohmygod) taking away a spot from one of them more needy super busses.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:39 PM   #43
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It's best to install it prior to the regulator to protect it also. The only purpose is to catch chunks. I was told you should never need to clean it (it screws apart) unless to get some real nasty propane.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:11 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
I wish ETI would let us take out the 3 way fridge and put in a truck fridge with 12 volt with duel batteries and solar why screw around with propane ? I've had friends come down to SW Florida and their 3 way fridges don't work so well . I talked to Sarah she said they could delete fridge and leave the cabinet open .I would have to get my own . I still don't know what $ one would get deleting the 3 way fridge .

If we get the 3 way can we just run on 12 volt or 110 ac and forget propane .(I did order the extra rear fridge fan)The only time propane comes in handy is boon docking for hot water and burners for coffee.The SE of America most campsites have elec 110 even in national parks . That's why I wanted solar to keep up the fridge on 12 volt . I hope this new Fridge for the 21 is up to the SW Florida Summers
Sorry to tell you this, but from what I've been able to find, the Dometic Americana fridges use about 12.5 Amps on 12V. That would be a whopping 300 amp/hours a day if it runs all the time. Even if it only runs 50% of the time that's 150 amp/hours, which is far more than you will be able to generate and store with the standard solar and dual 6v setup.

Dometic makes a Danfoss compressor fridge series for marine applications that could work though. For our 2017 17B with a 4 cu ft option the dimensions of the RM2454 are approx 37 1/2 X 25 X 25". The Dometic CRX-1140 would fit at approx 33 1/4 X 23 1/2 X 24 1/2". This might be an option for you as well if you are willing to downsize your fridge and take the ETI no fridge option.

I found this article which suggests that slightly smaller CRX-1110 uses an average of only 2.2 amps, or 50-60 amp/hours per day. The Danfoss compressors seem to use about the same power regardless of fridge size, so let's call it 2.5 amps. That might just be doable with the 160 watt solar panel, but I would want to carry a small generator for cloudy days or if you use 12V for much else other than the fridge.

I'm toying with the idea myself, but I was pretty happy with the last 2 propane/110v rv fridges I had so I doubt it. I think the Americana is likely to be a decent unit and with a cooling fan will hopefully be adequate. If it turns into a nightmare later I might swap it out for a danfoss 12V.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:57 AM   #45
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It's best to install it prior to the regulator to protect it also. The only purpose is to catch chunks. I was told you should never need to clean it (it screws apart) unless to get some real nasty propane.
Thanks - so "both sides" meant both inputs (not input and output), which makes sense.
I've had more problems with liquids than particles, but these filters sound like they might be a good just-in-case measure.
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:32 AM   #46
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I would replace the propane regulator at the tank.
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:35 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
It's best to install it prior to the regulator to protect it also. The only purpose is to catch chunks. I was told you should never need to clean it (it screws apart) unless to get some real nasty propane.
Hi Klem,
What is the name fo that device you connected to the propane tubes. Where do you get them? what is the part number? Thanks.

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Old 07-21-2016, 08:45 AM   #48
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Hi Klem,
What is the name fo that device you connected to the propane tubes. Where do you get them? what is the part number? Thanks.

Tonny

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Old 07-21-2016, 11:09 AM   #49
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Been traveling for a few weeks now and am now having similar problems listed here with my fridge (RM2510). When I first hit the road the fridge was on propane and worked great for three days. I reached my destination, switched to AC, and the fridge continued working for 10 days.

When I left to go to my next destination I again switched to propane. This time I noticed the fridge was warming, even though everything seemed to be working: piezo ignition, burner and flue hot. Several days passed and the fridge just would not cool down. BUT the freezer was working great, everything still frozen.

I'm now at my destination and back on AC, everything works, but I am perplexed. Consulted Google but have not yet come across any similar issues.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:47 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Tonny LR View Post
What is the name fo that device you connected to the propane tubes. Where do you get them? what is the part number?
This one:
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This looks like the AFC Model 155, a 40-micron inline filter.
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:06 PM   #51
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Kountrykamper,
Thank you very much for the info.

Tonny
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Old 07-21-2016, 03:36 PM   #52
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Several days passed and the fridge just would not cool down. BUT the freezer was working great, everything still frozen.
.
First, a disclaimer, I don't know anything, really. The fridge is a black hole to me.
BUT, I remember watching a youtube movie about these fridges and they showed a hole at the back bottom of the freezer and said don't obstruct it or allow ice to build over it, because the cool air actually drops out of that hole to cool the rest of the fridge.
Again, I don't know anything, but that sort of meshes with the thought that the evaporation cup should have some water in it, so the cold doesn't leak out
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:29 PM   #53
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Drove today to Tom’s RV in ABQ in search of answers or at least, to gain perspective, on how to deal with this (sic) no-go-pro-paine problem. If possible, I don’t want to pull the fridge out, nor do I want to hitch up and drive 28 miles, drop off the trailer and then wait 48 to 72+ hours, for maybe a seven minute fix.

Tom’s refrigerator guy in ABQ was happy to help. It’s a very busy shop. He suggested first cleaning out the flue. Things get in there. Then, he said use a manometer to check the pressure in the system. Maybe the pilot light isn’t right. A manometer measures pressure in units of water column inches. He said, propane appliances in the RV are designed to operate at 10.5 to 11” of water column. My eyes began to water.

Clean the um, flue, you say? He took me to the shop floor. A Dometic fridge pulled from some big rig was sitting there. The flue is a ¾” pipe in back running vertically up from the Piezo ignition. I got it. I could do that. I’ll try cleaning the flue.

Back at home. Access to the flue for cleaning becomes less simple then I thought. One screw removed the plate shielding the Piezo ignition but how do I get a brush up past the Piezo and up the flue pipe? I feared mis-aligning these parts. I didn't have a brush for inside a pipe. But then, another screw removed and the Piezo dropped down clearing a way to shove a hose up the flue. Hose was attached to my little airbrush compressor. I worked the hose all the way up and down, then for good measure did it again but attached to a shop vac. Biggest disappointment was no bug bodies mouse eggs or web nets came out. Have no clue what blocked the flue.

Flue job done by 2 PM. Fridge now turned on, to 5 dots on propane, and it is 76°F in there. Bob also showed me what they used in the shop to monitor fridge temperature. Real high tech. They get a $6 A/CPRO test thermometer at AutoZone, used for auto air conditioning, drill a 5/16th hole for its stem in a small water bottle cap, fill it with water and seal the thermometer in the plastic bottle. I used a 12 oz. Aquafina because the plastic seemed extra sturdy. Lay it on a shelf. It works, no batteries needed.

Just checked fridge temperature. At 4 PM fridge is 60°F and trailer is 88°F. At 6 PM fridge is 54°F and trailer is 90°F. This is looking good.
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:01 PM   #54
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Never say die Myron. Best of luck on your overnight temps. It was 96 F in my shed tonight so the fridge has a ways to go, lit it at 4 it's down to 66F. She'll make it by morning I believe.
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:37 PM   #55
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Just a note. There is a baffel hanging inside the flue that is just clipped to the top of the flue. Be careful not to knock it loose as it will require pulling the fridge to reattach. It is there to slow the heat rising up the flue to allow it to have time to be absorbed into the refrigerant.

See part #102 on page 5

http://www.leisurespares.co.uk/files/rm8551.pdf
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:05 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Drove today to Tom’s RV in ABQ in search of answers or at least, to gain perspective, on how to deal with this (sic) no-go-pro-paine problem. If possible, I don’t want to pull the fridge out, nor do I want to hitch up and drive 28 miles, drop off the trailer and then wait 48 to 72+ hours, for maybe a seven minute fix.

Tom’s refrigerator guy in ABQ was happy to help. It’s a very busy shop. He suggested first cleaning out the flue. Things get in there. Then, he said use a manometer to check the pressure in the system. Maybe the pilot light isn’t right. A manometer measures pressure in units of water column inches. He said, propane appliances in the RV are designed to operate at 10.5 to 11” of water column. My eyes began to water.

Clean the um, flue, you say? He took me to the shop floor. A Dometic fridge pulled from some big rig was sitting there. The flue is a ¾” pipe in back running vertically up from the Piezo ignition. I got it. I could do that. I’ll try cleaning the flue.

Back at home. Access to the flue for cleaning becomes less simple then I thought. One screw removed the plate shielding the Piezo ignition but how do I get a brush up past the Piezo and up the flue pipe? I feared mis-aligning these parts. I didn't have a brush for inside a pipe. But then, another screw removed and the Piezo dropped down clearing a way to shove a hose up the flue. Hose was attached to my little airbrush compressor. I worked the hose all the way up and down, then for good measure did it again but attached to a shop vac. Biggest disappointment was no bug bodies mouse eggs or web nets came out. Have no clue what blocked the flue.

Flue job done by 2 PM. Fridge now turned on, to 5 dots on propane, and it is 76°F in there. Bob also showed me what they used in the shop to monitor fridge temperature. Real high tech. They get a $6 A/CPRO test thermometer at AutoZone, used for auto air conditioning, drill a 5/16th hole for its stem in a small water bottle cap, fill it with water and seal the thermometer in the plastic bottle. I used a 12 oz. Aquafina because the plastic seemed extra sturdy. Lay it on a shelf. It works, no batteries needed.

Just checked fridge temperature. At 4 PM fridge is 60°F and trailer is 88°F. At 6 PM fridge is 54°F and trailer is 90°F. This is looking good.
That is mighty clean ! Good as new ! Now I should attend to mine , you are putting me to shame ! Pat
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Old 07-22-2016, 12:12 AM   #57
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Just a note. There is a baffel hanging inside the flue that is just clipped to the top of the flue. Be careful not to knock it loose as it will require pulling the fridge to reattach. It is there to slow the heat rising up the flue to allow it to have time to be absorbed into the refrigerant.

See part #102 on page 5

http://www.leisurespares.co.uk/files/rm8551.pdf
Thanks for that Tom- that would be a mistake where one might surely wish they had hired a pro. With Myron though on doing anything I can rather than hitch up and get on someone's clock if not absolutely necessary.
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:49 AM   #58
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Thanks for that Tom- that would be a mistake where one might surely wish they had hired a pro. With Myron though on doing anything I can rather than hitch up and get on someone's clock if not absolutely necessary.
This is my 3rd Dometic refrigrator. I would definely look at video' s, instruction booklet if you have never tackled this task before . Yes there is the baffle hanging in there . If I remember in previous manuals you need to clean the burner etc. out once in awhile . Or you go get it serviced . I prefer to do what ever I am capable of to do myself . I have a stake in my trailer and I want it done right . Pat
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:11 AM   #59
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Fear not, grasshoppers. Note little screw holding the top of the baffle in place.
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:52 AM   #60
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Fear not, grasshoppers. Note little screw holding the top of the baffle in place.
Ahh but fear on grasshopper. That screw is holding the flue cap in place not the baffle. The cap has a slot in it the if pushed right the baffle could come off. After pulling the fridge 4 times and making a flue extension I have been in there more than I would like to discuss.

Just a warning for anyone else to be careful. Air should not be a problem but pushing things up the flue could be. You can see the slot on the front of the flue and the baffle wire hanging out of the back slot touching the chimney.

In your picture you can also see the wire that the baffle hangs on sticking out the back slot on the flue cap.

Don't worry Myron, you would have known if it came off because it would have fell out the bottom of the burner.
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