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Old 10-17-2020, 11:27 AM   #1
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2018 5.0ta heat pads

As we are leaving MN late this fall I think it would be useful to know how to use the heat pads that are under the foam insulation. Anyone know if there is a switch or separate breaker? Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-17-2020, 01:33 PM   #2
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My switch was under the bed in my E19 so I suggest you start looking under your dinette area for an unknown switch. Caution, due to the large battery draw, you need to be connected to 120v in order to prevent battery discharge while using the 12v heat pads.
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Old 10-18-2020, 04:16 PM   #3
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As we are leaving MN late this fall I think it would be useful to know how to use the heat pads that are under the foam insulation. Anyone know if there is a switch or separate breaker? Thanks in advance!
Switches found (by my dear wife!) on driver's side of dinette seat box in the outside front corner. Thanx!
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Old 01-31-2021, 07:56 AM   #4
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I’m going thru my options list and the heat pads are a mystery to me, some say they are not needed at all.
I’m getting a 5 and doing the snowbird thing in it but at times need to head back home-weather like yours, but it would only be for a short stay.
I’m told heat pads-heat tape on pipes the foam, which I will put on myself to allow access for repairs, will not prevent plumbing from freezing.
I’m unclear as to the value-or point-to the heat pads if this is the case.
I see the pictures posted on here of Canadians camping in the snow?
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Old 02-07-2021, 09:40 AM   #5
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Is it not true that while driving the trailer plug is charging batteries and therefore if needed the heat tape could be run. Or is there to much draw.
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Old 02-07-2021, 09:50 AM   #6
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Is it not true that while driving the trailer plug is charging batteries and therefore if needed the heat tape could be run. Or is there to much draw.

No! It is not true. Unless you have set up your trailer to draw power off your TV.

The draw of the heating pads is so big, they will drain your battery in a few hours. They are only to be used with shore power.

I use them at home when the temperatures dip below freezing. I fill the tanks up to create a thermal mass (thank you Glenn) and turn the pads on. That will keep them from freezing. It does nothing for the black tank.

Jim Norman said he did not put them on trailers 2,3 and 4. I am glad I have them.
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Old 02-07-2021, 09:59 AM   #7
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Humm..okay..so does my truck plug charge rv batteries at all? So do you drain your hot water heater while in transit..or
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:00 AM   #8
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Should have said our soon to be 2019 5.O is installed with two 170 solar panels. Thanks
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:09 AM   #9
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Humm..okay..so does my truck plug charge rv batteries at all? So do you drain your hot water heater while in transit..or
The truck generally provides minimal charging. However, with two solar panels you will get great charging from them while driving.

The hot water heater works off A/C when you have a shore power connection at a campsite, the rest of the time runs on propane. No need to drain it while in transit, just turn it off.
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:13 AM   #10
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Great info..so when I done camping and sitting at home..I assume I need to drain hot water heater and the rest of lines..We live in south of Durango in Ignacio,CO
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:18 AM   #11
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Great info..so when I done camping and sitting at home..I assume I need to drain hot water heater and the rest of lines..We live in south of Durango in Ignacio,CO
It's a good idea to drain the hot water heater and fresh water tank when the trailer will be sitting unused for a length of time because water left sitting for weeks can grow bacteria and become stagnant. And, of course, you need to read up on the procedures for winterizing your water system completely when it will be stored during below freezing temps.
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:57 AM   #12
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Great info..so when I done camping and sitting at home..I assume I need to drain hot water heater and the rest of lines..We live in south of Durango in Ignacio,CO
Along with simply opening drains, etc., its best to blow out all the water lines using low pressure compressed air. You'll be amazed how much additional water will drain out using compressed air...after you've performed a simple gravity drain procedure.
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Old 02-07-2021, 11:14 AM   #13
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Thanks ..have never tried this but purchased air adapter to use..what is low pressure to you.
have an air comp in shop cut off at 120lbs
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Old 02-07-2021, 11:30 AM   #14
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Thanks ..have never tried this but purchased air adapter to use..what is low pressure to you.
have an air comp in shop cut off at 120lbs
RV water systems are designed for low pressure, 40 psi is good for blowing them out and higher pressures can damage pipes/fittings. On that same subject, that is why it is highly recommended to use an inexpensive water pressure regulator on any campground water connections you hook up to - some campgrounds can have very high water pressure.
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Old 02-07-2021, 11:46 AM   #15
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Thanks ..have never tried this but purchased air adapter to use..what is low pressure to you.
have an air comp in shop cut off at 120lbs
30-40psi(max) works great. Pressure regulator and clean oil-free air.
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Old 02-07-2021, 12:52 PM   #16
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Can the same air compressor work for inflating tires as well blowing out the water lines?

I am new and trying to compile a list of items I need to buy. Any brand / model recommendations?
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Old 02-07-2021, 12:57 PM   #17
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^ Yes, depending on the compressor of course. FYI/FWIW I have an ARB CKMTA12 compressor mounted on my Chevy HD2500 (without an air tank...right now anyway) and use an inexpensive adjustable regulator I got at Lowes ($30 IIRC) that just plugs into the air line and makes it quick and easy to keep the air pressure at or below 40psi for evacuating water from our little Escape 15A.

I also have a much larger output belt drive air compressor on my LandCruiser that does the same thing. But they both work great and serve for inflating tires, blowing off trail dust at the end of the day from pull rig and trailer alike and any other compressed air application within the pressure and CFM rating of the compressor.
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Old 02-07-2021, 01:16 PM   #18
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Thank you very much, dstreight!

The unit you have seems rather expensive ($600 plus). I saw a number of pancake type compressors on Amazon with decent brands - Craftsman, Porter Cable, Bostich, etc. Seems like the choices are 3 gallon, 6 gallon, more. Too much choice, particularly when I don't know exactly what one is looking for...
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Old 02-07-2021, 01:19 PM   #19
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Mine is a 12v relatively high output compressor designed for mobile use: I have mine mounted on my truck.

For 120v with integrated tank you can find them much less expensive at Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight, etc., etc.

Unless you're going to be spraying paint, gel coat, etc., all you need is something like this at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-6...50HB/303379052

For filling tires and purging the water system on the trailer a 3-gallon tank will be fine. You will exhaust the air in the tank, regardless, when purging the water system on the trailer as it takes a good 1/2 hour or more to do it properly (until water stops draining) so the compressor will just run without accumulating in the tank...hope that makes sense.
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Old 02-07-2021, 01:21 PM   #20
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Thanks a lot, dstreight! This is the type I was looking for. Many thanks for clarifying!
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