21C or 21NE Wheelbase

[Pairofkings]

I’ve searched the forum and Escape spec sheets and can’t find the measurements I need. I’m building a garage for our 21C which is due next year. I’m planning to use grass pavers through my yard for moving the trailer in and out of the garage. Would someone please measure the width of the axle between the inside of the tires and also the width to the outside of the tires. This will help me with placing the grass pavers.
Thank you in advance for your assistance. 😀

[Centex]

You're actually asking for the "track" not the "wheelbase*", "track" being the center-of-tread to center-of-tread width for an axle.

The 21C, 21NE, and 5.0 being the same spec body width I suspect the track is the same for all three also. FWIW:

• The track on my 5.0 measures 75.5 inches (that's center-to-center of tread).
• The spec 205/75R15 tire width is 8.1 inches, let's call it 8-even (sidewall-to-sidewall).
• So, the outside-to-outside of tires width is ~83.5 inches, inside-to-inside is ~67.5 inches.

Hope that helps, Have Fun!

*wheelbase nominally refers to a fore-to-aft (lengthwise of the rig, not widthwise) distance between axles

[Pairofkings]

Perfect. Thank you for the information and clarification of the correct wording. ��

[marant]

OK, what is the wheelbase, then, so I know how long my leveling boards need to be?

[Ron in BC]

The W.B. is 30" and the length of the two contact patches, front to rear, is 40" so the levelling board would have to be longer to be easy to get in position but difficult to handle.

I use 2" x 8" foot long pieces of wood. Many more options for use in difficult site conditions.

Ron

[marant]

Thanks, Ron, that is the information I needed.

I like your idea of using multiple shorter boards. Much easier to store. With the 17 I did not have the problem. Looks to me like 6 will probably cover all situations. How many to you have?

[Ron in BC]

Well let's just say 6 is a nice workable number. I may have accumulated a couple of extra pieces of lumber along the way. When you go to a lot of unknown, not groomed campsites it's hard to have too many. Also, despite having sand pads there's times on sloping sites where you need an extra block or two under the stabilizer.

This site was fun. More fun because of a large contingent of folks watching and ready for some afternoon entertainment. It was the only beach front site available but had a real slope to it. Sized it up, excavated a sand trench on the high side and used an assortment of blocks on the low side. Backed in in one shot. Sorry folks, I hate being other folks entertainment.

It's an example why it's good to have an extra block or two. Without one under the stabilizer it wouldn't have reached the ground.

My blocks are 2 by material but I added a 1/2" plywood on one side for two reasons. One, that makes it high enough that when you back up onto one the other wheel is free to spin. Good for changing tires or adjusting brakes. Two, the layer of plywood prevents the 2 by material from splitting etc.

Ron

[marant]

I know what you mean about using blocks under the stabilizers. Saves a lot of cranking.

I am making new blocks for our anticipated 21C. Have a piece of pressure treated 4" x 6" wood to use. They will be 4x6x8 which should take care of about any situation.

[Ron in BC]

I don't bother carrying my basic plastic blocks anymore because I found they start getting brittle, especially for use under stabilizers on rocky ground. In their place I made up a couple of foot long 1 1/4" pieces. Between them and the 2" thick pieces and the ability to double up if necessary I pretty much can deal with any situation.

Most times you don't need a 3" lift so I'd recommend having at least two pieces of 2" x 8". They'll likely be the most go-to blocks.

Ron