3-way refrigerator not cooling on DC

[splitting_lanes]

We have the Dometic 3-way refrigerator, and I noticed this morning that we didn’t use any battery while boondocking at a travel center. Things in the freezer had started to thaw.

It’s been working, and the 30 amp fuse is fine. The light in the refrigerator works when the refrigerator is powered by DC or propane.

Interestingly, my wife mentioned a couple days ago that she smelled burnt plastic or rubber when she sat down at the u-shaped dinette.

We are on the road, but I was hoping to get some insight on if there is a connection between the WFCO and fridge, and where to look for it.

Thanks for your insight!

[cpaharley2008]

I still fail to see the benefit of 12v cooling in a 3 way refer with propane option......a lot more efficient also.

[splitting_lanes]

Jim, it’s a inaccurate that it’s more efficient on propane. The refrigerator requires 440w on AC, 1500BTU on propane, or a max of 360w on DC. As 440w = 1500BTU, it’s neither more or less efficient depending upon the input powering it. On DC the fridge is current limited to 360w max, so it cannot cool as quickly, but it has nothing to do with efficiency. Power = Power, and nothing is cheaper than electricity I’m getting for free.


On to the problem solving: The 30amp fuse holder in the back of the refrigerator had been laying against a black pipe and had melted. I cannot get it open, it melted shut. I’ve put a call into Dometic, and they’ve escalated it internally. I’ve also learned that there are separate heating elements for each input source, so I’m ok to run on AC/propane until I get the DC side sorted out.