5.0 RM2510 fridge issue

[gbaglo]

Was out testing systems this afternoon. Ran stove burners. Got furnace lit and working. Water heater working.
Light that is supposed to flash when fridge is turned to gas is not lit. Tried moving the selector to electric and back to gas several times, but still no flashing light.
Had a spill a couple years ago and some probably got into the gas/electric selector area, but it was still working.
I'm tempted to take the cover off this area to see what is behind that might be causing the problem. No instructions for this or suggestions for the light not flashing to be found in the manual.
There are two holes in the cover that allow access to screws. Wish I was positive that if I undid those screws, the cover would come off, and nothing else.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

No instructions for this or suggestions for the light not flashing to be found in the manual.

Do you have a service manual, or just the owner's manual?

[gbaglo]

Just have owner manual, but I looked up troubleshooting manual. It didn't help because I am hopeless when it comes to electric circuits. However, I turned the selector knob to gas one more time, and the light flashed. I've lit the fridge and will check it in about four hours.
I still would like to get the cover off though, so I can clean up any debris. There is a screw cap at the far left that may reveal a screw, or there are the access holes in the cover ( one just right of the LED ).

[Ian G]

I have an older RM2300 in my Boler. I know the contacts on the rotary selector for gas/electric gets dirty and corroded occasionally. I found just rotating it repeatedly a number of time the contacts will get cleaner due to them rubbing together. To clean them properly with contact cleaner I had to remove the fridge to access the switch.

Not sure if this will work on yours but

[cpaharley2008]

Glenn,
Why not ask Reace at Osoyoos, he would know and you can then watch him take it apart.

[gbaglo]

Hoping to go somewhere couple of weeks from now. I do have a expensive can of electrical contact cleaner, but not the access.

[cpaharley2008]

Then I'd go ahead and remove the screws, what harm would it do.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Then I'd go ahead and remove the screws, what harm would it do.

Hi: cpaharley2008... Ok for you to say!!! Reace started out renting trailers and look where it got him! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Asheville N.C. for now

[Brian B-P]

I only have a manual showing the parts of a RM2500... not quite the same. Even it doesn't clearly show how to disassemble the lower area.

In the RM2500, the knobs are in front but they are on the end of long rods because the actual switches are in the back. I would take off the outside intake vent/cover for access to clean contacts.

The danger in turning screws is that sometimes something behind the panel falls off, and there's no way to get to it. I'm always a little cautious about that, but in this case any exposed screw that looks like it is holding the panel on is likely doing just that - appliances like this are often fixed by people who don't have the full factory manual. Unfortunately, I doubt that removing that panel will help.

[gbaglo]

Googled RM2510 exploded view and found this: Laurelhurst Distributors Parts Breakdown - Dometic Refrigerators

Still unsure.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Googled RM2510 exploded view and found this: Laurelhurst Distributors Parts Breakdown - Dometic Refrigerators.

From the Exterior Components view it looks like taking the front panel (index# 34) off would still leave you looking at the steel base frame of the cabinet (index# 23)... not helpful.

The Control and Burner Components view is from the back, and it shows that the working bits are a long way from the front-panel knobs, connected by the long rods that I mentioned earlier (#120 - #122). It looks like the switch (#87) is best reached from the back (trailer exterior). This is the same view I saw in an earlier manual for the RM2500.

[J Mac]

I don't know if this helps anybody or not but when I shut the propane off my fridge, for what ever reason, I shut it off FIRST at the fridge, then at the tank. It seems that when, and if, I shut the tank off first the line has to empty, via the fridge, making start up again somewhat more time consuming and difficult as the line has to once again fill with propane. Running the stove top first, when starting the fridge, I've been told, helps get the propane moving again but that has never been a help, most likely because the stove top always gets turned off at the stove top and not at the tank.
That's my 2 cents worth (and in Canada that rounds down to zero).

[GerriJ]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I only have a manual showing the parts of a RM2500... not quite the same. Even it doesn't clearly show how to disassemble the lower area.

In the RM2500, the knobs are in front but they are on the end of long rods because the actual switches are in the back. I would take off the outside intake vent/cover for access to clean contacts.

The danger in turning screws is that sometimes something behind the panel falls off, and there's no way to get to it. I'm always a little cautious about that, but in this case any exposed screw that looks like it is holding the panel on is likely doing just that - appliances like this are often fixed by people who don't have the full factory manual. Unfortunately, I doubt that removing that panel will help.

I had an older Dometic fridge in a camper. I had some problems with the selector knob so I took things apart. If those long rods that Brian mentions come out of place they can be difficult to get back in. Take care.
Mark

[gbaglo]

My selector knob isn't particularly positive when setting to gas. It turns a good quarter turn past the gas setting. Not sure if the reason is at the front, where the knob attaches to the shaft, or if it's at the back where the contacts are. I'm just going to let it ride for now.

[ksb]

this posting seems to refer only to propane operation....anyone have problems with running on electric (120 vac)?

ours runs fine on propane, but not on electric. unfortunately, we are traveling and our meter broke....any quick fixes or ideas?

we have checked the breaker, plug...the obvious items....

thanks!

[J Mac]

Did you check the outside fuse? It can be seen and reached via the exterior fridge access panel.