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Old 11-17-2014, 01:00 PM   #41
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Ok, so thanks to 'someone's' help these should be right, I flipped them wrong ...

Whoops, I just previewed and 2 that I turned 'right 90' stayed there and 1 I flipped right 90 ended up left 90.

More experimenting later .... enjoy the day

Klem
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:13 PM   #42
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Good news, I saved these photos through Photoshop Elements and they loaded correctly (up is up!) Thank you RBRYAN for revealing the problem.

Pictures- the copper flue extension with the stock tip pointing up and away, the picture of insulation with the 'chimney' in the upper left that the extension fits into to move the heat up another 8" or so. And a picture of the stock flue pipe. Notice the stock flue pipe dumps hot air behind the refrig right where we are trying to cool.

Everyone should have the kinks out of their neck now ..;

Mel
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5 Flue extension pe.jpg   7 Insulated box flue extension UP pe.jpg   Stock refer vent pe.jpg  
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:26 PM   #43
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Mel, nice modification. You might as well insulate the flue pipe extension. To minimize heat radiation in that area.

Steve
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:06 PM   #44
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Nice work Mel. The before and after photos of the fridge back really clarify the problem. Interesting that ETI does not insulate the fridge compartment. I wonder if they'd add it?
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:13 PM   #45
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Hi Klem, 'someone' here.

Photos taken with an iPhone have metadata included in the file. The metadata helps the phone flip the picture so it displays correctly (landscape or portrait). But, when you display them on a pc, the metadata is ignored -- so it displays the picture in it's 'native' state.

The way around this is to flip the photo on your pc, usually 90 degrees clockwise, then save it and upload it. Voila! The picture will appear right side up.
The abolutely simplest way to take photos with an iPhone so they always show right-side-up in posts is to remember to hold your camera in Landscape mode for all photos and always for videos. If in doubt, think of a movie screen, long and flat not upright.
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Old 11-17-2014, 05:09 PM   #46
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The abolutely simplest way to take photos with an iPhone so they always show right-side-up in posts is to remember to hold your camera in Landscape mode for all photos and always for videos. If in doubt, think of a movie screen, long and flat not upright.
True, but then depending on what you're photographing, you may want a portrait view because of the object's shape -- like Mel's Fridge back -- tall and narrow. Taking a photo of that in landscape view would make the image too wide, and not tall enough. It also holds true for 'full length' photos of people. You don't have to stand as far away to capture the entire image, and therefore the detail is better. In other words, let the subject matter determine the field of view.
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Old 11-17-2014, 05:55 PM   #47
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Mel, nice modification. You might as well insulate the flue pipe extension. To minimize heat radiation in that area.

Steve
Thanks for catching that. I will put that on the list for the next pull out.

Dometic sells a flue extender that passes out the side of the trailer. I wasn't ready to cut a hole through the side because it would pass through the wood baffle and I couldn't see it through the upper vent. With this install I can visually inspect the flue chimney and check temperatures etc.

All the installs should get the flue heat out of there. Can you imagine on a hot day dumping the burner heat directly behind the box? No surprise to me that these installations have trouble on hot days.

Mel
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:05 PM   #48
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Mel, nice modification. You might as well insulate the flue pipe extension. To minimize heat radiation in that area.

Steve
My thought too. I have some tape of the type used to wrap exhaust pipes. Should work fine.

But when you think of it, why are we having to do things like this? Really poor effort on Dometic's side

Ron
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:09 PM   #49
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I don't think we yet know if this "solution" is effective.
What I do know is that somehow this thread on table slides has ended up behind the fridge.
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:10 PM   #50
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Nice work Mel. The before and after photos of the fridge back really clarify the problem. Interesting that ETI does not insulate the fridge compartment. I wonder if they'd add it?
Thank you. I just tried to follow 'the spirit of' the recommended Dometic installation.

https://www.dometic.com/enie/Interna...ation-systems/

Notice the LS100 on that page has an integrated flue vent. They also sell a side flue vent for units like the RML8555.

And the LS300 lower vent (which people say isn't sold in the US) has a winter cover and also measures about 2" taller then the lower vent installed on my 6.7. That's why I increased air intake volume from below the traier instead of cutting a larger vent in the side. And the air pickup is in a cooler location.

Mel
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:12 PM   #51
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I don't think we yet know if this "solution" is effective.
What I do know is that somehow this thread on table slides has ended up behind the fridge.
We'll see in February. I can move back to my refrig thread. I started both so it's all good with me.
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:14 AM   #52
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Welcome back to the Tinkerer's corner. "Thank you" to the site team for bringing the other posts over here!


From page one, the inspiration for my work on the frig:


http://www.dometicrvcentre.com.au/do...nager/item/421


It looks to me that "Gas flue kit: Ref No: 3776" (from lower left page one) would work great on the side of our trailers? I said in an earlier post that I routed the flue 'up' to avoid going through the wooden baffle that ETI had installed.


Checking out page 2 you will see the options, there are more in other documents but this is a good overview. Notice they all route the hot flue gases out of the trailer.


I read somewhere else that by routing the flue gases out there is less chance they can be pulled into the living area of the trailer. I remember folks saying that the maxair was pulling air into the living area ... that could pull propane leaks and propane flue gases in too.


I'll get some more pictures ready. I'm doing trim now and tossing in an inverter so the new microwave (under the refrig) will work when we don't have an AC hookup.


Very interested in hearing how the Nova Kool works out. I just needed to do something for when we head south in February.


Mel
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:55 AM   #53
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Mel,
I'm wondering if the bottom locale of the intake will not have the same effect as the open MaxxFan on the roof has, you may have a reverse pressure situation and the draw may be affected. Perhaps if you turned the vent cover forward to scoop air into the intake while moving?
Then again the faster you go the more air, do you want that to happen? Or is it already facing forward, hard to tell from the pictures?
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:19 AM   #54
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Wow, some very useful info. The first thing that caught my eye was not only the use of the TPX extension(s) but the comment about the height (up to the vent). I'll be exploring that situation; extending and insulating the exhaust.

Thanks for posting the link.

Ron
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:19 PM   #55
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Mel,
I'm wondering if the bottom locale of the intake will not have the same effect as the open MaxxFan on the roof has, you may have a reverse pressure situation and the draw may be affected. Perhaps if you turned the vent cover forward to scoop air into the intake while moving?
Then again the faster you go the more air, do you want that to happen? Or is it already facing forward, hard to tell from the pictures?
See my 'before' and 'after' pictures below. The vent in the 'after' picture has a garbage bag over it to block rain and wind.

I don't think I have the air leakage problem but other folks had mentioned it in their posts. My installation has a baffle (seen above the AC plug) and sealing around the refrigerator installed by ETI.

People should look in through the lower vent and see what they have for sealing the back area from the trailer interior.

I replaced the spray foam installed by ETI with foam tape against the refrig bottom and silicon seal around the edges. Notice in the left middle of the picture the water stain on the bottom of the wood near the vent. I also coated the wood with an oil base sealer.
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lower vent as done by ETI pe.jpg   vent area with fan box and reseal pe.jpg  
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:45 PM   #56
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Wow, some very useful info. The first thing that caught my eye was not only the use of the TPX extension(s) but the comment about the height (up to the vent). I'll be exploring that situation; extending and insulating the exhaust.

Thanks for posting the link.

Ron
I've attached 3 pictures of the 'chimney'. One shows the lower mount. The second shows how I aligned it for the extended flue to slide in without catching on the rubber seal. And the top view with the flue as a red line.

The extended flue slides into the 4" aluminum 90 degree dryer vent chimney. The 90 allows you to rotate it so the angle is good. I didn't want to cut a hole in the upper screen but might in the future if needed.

I measured hottest flue temps at 126F, low enough to not be a fire hazard with wood so close. I also sealed the wood to protect it from moisture but also hoping the air will flow smoother.

Interested in all other ideas, this was built mostly with things I found in my shop ...

Mel
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4 inch chimney mount pe.jpg   chimney trimmed for extended flue to slide in pe.jpg   Chimney top with flue red pe.jpg  
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:56 PM   #57
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Nice work Mel. The before and after photos of the fridge back really clarify the problem. Interesting that ETI does not insulate the fridge compartment. I wonder if they'd add it?
Thank you for your comments. I simply folded over the reflective insulation making a double layer. I taped the edges and stapled it to the walls. On the top I wedged in a couple pieces of old plastic pipe to keep it up.

Mel
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insulation inside frig box looking up pe.jpg  
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:56 PM   #58
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MEL, I as referring to your new intake below the trailer with the scoop turned either forward or reverse, that is what I was referring to.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:15 PM   #59
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this was built mostly with things I found in my shop ...

Mel
The stuff Myron calls "junk too good to throw out" and I call "resource materials"

Getting rid of 126 degree waste heat has to be a benefit. Great work and good solution for hooking up the flue.

Ron
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:18 PM   #60
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MEL, I as referring to your new intake below the trailer with the scoop turned either forward or reverse, that is what I was referring to.
Duhh, sorry. I appreciate the questions/comments as I would like to optimize these mods before heading south 8)

I was happy to see there is a spot where it is protected by a frame rail in front and on the wheel side. I also got a stainless steel bowl from Goodwill and cut it so splash etc. would have less chance of getting in.

Also the fan box is up in the refrig area so it would not pull in under trailer dust etc. If you look close you'll see it's plastic dryer vent tube and I added a screen too.

At first I was planning to leave it 'open' as possible but with the side vent just being a bit small the purpose of this pickup is to 'add' venting, not be 'the' vent.

Is that what you were asking? Mel
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