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Old 06-27-2014, 05:49 PM   #1
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A few New Owner Questions

Didn't have an orientation so if anyone can help I'd appreciate it.

1. 6.7L Fridge. The manual (pg 18) says in Auto the unit will use in order
a. Solar 12vdc
b. 120vac
c. 12vdc
d. LPG
If a solar system capable of powering the fridge i installed it has priority.
The 12vdc operation is otherwise only effective while the engine is running.
Has anyone figured out what they are actually trying to say? How does it know if the 12vdc is battery, tv, or solar? Is it going to suck down my battery before it'll run on LPG? I'm a bit confused here.

2. Door Seal, trailer body side. Is it supposed to be glued on? lifts right off if I grab or run into the doorway getting in or out.

3. Screen Door, has anyone added a handle for opening/closing this? if so what did you use?

4. This one is for my better half. Has anyone come up with some way of making the bathroom sink plumbing more presentable? looks pretty shabby.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:06 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Didn't have an orientation so if anyone can help I'd appreciate it.

1. 6.7L Fridge. The manual (pg 18) says in Auto the unit will use in order
a. Solar 12vdc
b. 120vac
c. 12vdc
d. LPG
If a solar system capable of powering the fridge i installed it has priority.
The 12vdc operation is otherwise only effective while the engine is running.
Has anyone figured out what they are actually trying to say? How does it know if the 12vdc is battery, tv, or solar? Is it going to suck down my battery before it'll run on LPG? I'm a bit confused here.

2. Door Seal, trailer body side. Is it supposed to be glued on? lifts right off if I grab or run into the doorway getting in or out.

3. Screen Door, has anyone added a handle for opening/closing this? if so what did you use?

4. This one is for my better half. Has anyone come up with some way of making the bathroom sink plumbing more presentable? looks pretty shabby.
1) I read that, too. On Auto:
a) 110v
b) LPG

2) Mine is glued on.

3) I haven't. Be careful drilling - I believe the black things from the bottom go up the handle side of the door.

4) $2 Million. Buy a Prevost motor home. Someone built a shelf and maybe a curtain for it - either FGRV forum or Casita Forum.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:27 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
3. Screen Door, has anyone added a handle for opening/closing this? if so what did you use?
Absolutely, positively! I captured this direct URL because I just KNEW I would want the info. Read the text here and beyond and look at the pictures: Direct Link to Hokie Escape's Screen Door Handle
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:46 PM   #4
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Doug, the fridge won't run off 12vdc at all in auto?

Thanks for the link Donna, that's a must do.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:57 PM   #5
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4. This one is for my better half. Has anyone come up with some way of making the bathroom sink plumbing more presentable? looks pretty shabby.

When you replace the plastic shower curtain use the material left over from the new shower curtain to make a skirt. Use Velcro to attach the skirt to the bottom inside of the sink. The plumbing is hidden and the TP is kept dry.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:59 PM   #6
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Brilliant.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:00 PM   #7
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4. This one is for my better half. Has anyone come up with some way of making the bathroom sink plumbing more presentable? looks pretty shabby.

When you replace the plastic shower curtain use the material left over from the new shower curtain to make a skirt. Use Velcro to attach the skirt to the bottom inside of the sink. The plumbing is hidden and the TP is kept dry.
Might save me that $2M for the Provost.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:37 PM   #8
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Doug, the fridge won't run off 12vdc at all in auto?
...
I don't know what happens if there is no 110 and no LP. But the fridge on 12V will drain your batteries really quickly - so I was *very* happy to learn the manual was wrong. I figured auto was worthless until I tried it, and found the manual was wrong.
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Old 06-27-2014, 09:09 PM   #9
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Absolutely, positively!

I captured this direct URL because I just KNEW I would want the info.

RDirect Link to Hokie Escape's Screen Door Handle[/URL]
Amazing, considering the post was from 2009. Only how many hours and seconds until you have your very own Escape to start making yours.

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Old 06-27-2014, 09:13 PM   #10
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I added the door handle but it doesn't work for me. It's beneficial for opening so you have something to hold on to but when you try using it to close the door it puts it in a bind and not functional. Or I installed it incorrectly, so it's coming off.
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:02 PM   #11
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Amazing, considering the post was from 2009. Only how many hours and seconds until you have your very own Escape to start making yours.

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Old 06-28-2014, 07:44 AM   #12
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You do not have to use the "Auto" on the refer, just hold and select which source you want, for me it is either 120v or propane. I do not use the "auto" button. Yes you can mount a handle to the screen door go to #84 here http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...-a-1657-9.html
you can see the handle which had an identical one on the outside with utilizing the same holes. Be sure and mount far enough in to avoid the spring in the latch. You can glue down the door seal along the bottom, no harm. If you see any light around the door, pull away the seal on the door and install some weather stripping behind, it will make it thicker and close any draft holes.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:22 PM   #13
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How about a handle that doesn't need screw holes? I'm going to work on that approach. Sounds like a good product for Widget Works.

Would be easier if I actually had my 21. Can probably find a local one to measure around Portland, Oregon.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:30 PM   #14
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I added the door handle but it doesn't work for me. It's beneficial for opening so you have something to hold on to but when you try using it to close the door it puts it in a bind and not functional. Or I installed it incorrectly, so it's coming off.
Probably puts too much torque on the track slider with a handle that sticks out that far. Does it bind if you just use the factory pull?
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:33 PM   #15
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I'm going to look for a set of window sash pulls.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:34 PM   #16
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Probably puts too much torque on the track slider with a handle that sticks out that far. Does it bind if you just use the factory pull?
There is no factory pull, you have to use your finger tips on the frame lip, hence the issue.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:39 PM   #17
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There is no factory pull, you have to use your finger tips on the frame lip, hence the issue.
Thanks! Pic I saw looked like the slider latch could be used for a pull. Would be easier to design a handle if I had my 21!
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:27 PM   #18
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If it helps... Door open, door closed.
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:33 PM   #19
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Bob, thanks for the pics. I'm thinking a long handle that could be worked from either the top step or the ground. On my Escape I'd probably defeat the latch mechanism as it seems pretty goofy to lock a slider door.
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:35 PM   #20
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The door will not stay shut without the latch, it is under tension. You will see what happens the first time it does not latch and slams back into the open position.
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