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Old 10-17-2017, 03:01 PM   #41
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingbiscuit View Post
As a side note, while working on the fridge in my class A, he talked me out of putting internal and external fans on the fridge. He said he's done testing and the internal fans can hurt performance. External fans aren't needed if the fridge is vented properly.
For the external fans the key is "vented properly". Many installations are not done to the manufacturers specs. When I dug into ours recently I found a large air gap at the top and sides which affects airflow and surrounds the fridge with hot air. Also the top vent opening should be completely above the condenser. With our sidewall vent this was not compliant. Top vented would be a non-issue which is why Escape probably switched. (As an aside, I think this same issue of the top sidewall vent too low compared to the condenser was why owners had fridge issues on Casita's). I know Escape is also insulating around the fridges better on newer trailers. It just seems as they have been improving their installations this has intersected with other issues with the fridges themselves.

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Originally Posted by gocamp View Post
In my testing the Escape Texas fridge fan option gave me faster ice in the summer with it turned On compared to off.
I added two fans recently and I am looking forward to better fridge temps in hot weather. Initially testing shows that my added insulation/sealing and fans have a positive result.
www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9/refrigerator-test-11296-3.html#post219059

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Perhaps it can be retrofitted to a manual model, who cares as long as it works well.
I have suggested this in another thread. The RM2510 (5 CF) is still available at a few places, but since it is now discontinued it will be getting harder to find. I'm sure there are many other manual fridges out there with a decent track record I just don't know the model numbers and how many are available for purchase. By the way, by manual it is just the selection of fuel and the "cold" setting. It still has a piezo lighting system and auto relight functionality. Maybe this Dometic replacement chart would help someone researching older fridges?
www.americanrvcompany.com/assets/images/RefrigeratorsReplacementChart.pdf
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Old 10-17-2017, 03:50 PM   #42
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Dropped JR a note to add my name to folks interested in a replacement cooling unit, his response...

"We are working on it, but since they are so new its hard to find a junk one to look off of for patterns, but I will file you in our list to contact once they are ready…………. Thanks JR"
I hit a similar situation here in Alberta when our Dometic cooling failed (again) - a local company rebuilds them, but had no core units available. That's with the DM2852, which is far from a new model. Well, they got one... I had a new replacement cooling unit from Dometic installed, and the old one went to the rebuilder.
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Old 02-14-2021, 10:02 AM   #43
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Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Years ago, I captured two different websites for replacing cooling units on RV absorption refrigerators. Why buy the whole refrigerator when only the "workings" need to be replaced? Keep money in your pocket! I have zero clue as to comparisons between the Amish cooling units (or pricing) between these other two. I understand the cooling units can be replaced using hand tools. I'm only providing the links as additional information:


RV Refrigeration Repair – Norcold & Dometic Cooling Units – Falkville, AL

http://www.gammonsrv.com/12601.html
Hi: Donna D... Sorry to say Gammons retired. Seems there's a lot of that going on these days. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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