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Old 12-31-2018, 01:03 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chama View Post
After reading about the troublesome furnaces in Escape trailers I am hoping that somehow, some way, our furnace has been properly checked-over during QC process and that it works properly on delivery to us in Sumas in 2 weeks. However, reading this thread sure makes one wonder. Since hope is not a strategy, we are also bringing an electric heater to orientation, as back-up. I sure don't like the thought of staying a few nights in Washington, Oregon then over Siskiyou Summit in January in a trailer without a functioning furnace and with no other heat source. For those of you who have had the furnace fail shortly after delivery, did you get any days of normal use out of it before the failure?
I also picked up my trailer in January - Rease suggested leaving the propane heater on while traveling as the temps were below freezing. We never had a minutes trouble with the heater then and still don't after two years of service.

It's like everything that you buy - some get problems due to infant mortality and others never have a lick of trouble. The good news is that is what the warranty is for.

When you pick up your trailer, have Escape fill the propane tanks and turn on the heater before you leave Escape. If there is a problem, you should know before it's too late to turn around and have Escape take care of it.

Happy Journeys!
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:36 PM   #22
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Can’t speak to the new model, but ours has run perfectly for over three years. While problems can occur in both new and old mechanical equipment, I would imagine the issues with the furnace are statistically small. A small percentage of Escape owners participate actively on the forum so no real way to conclude if things are a global issue unless ETI is tracking and let’s owners know as they have in the past.
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:50 PM   #23
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The Atwood furnace.
We took delivery of our 21 on Dec 2016, it is the 2017 model.All this talk about furnace not working properly made me nervous, so I went out in the back yard and started up our Atwood furnace.Trailer have been sitting for a few months since we have been busy doing other things.Did winterize early December and put in a small electric heater since I am plugged in to the garage.So here we go, pushed the thermostat after unplugging electric heater.Furnace starts right away and keeps going until it reaches the preset temp.
Now I feel better.We will be going trough WA ID and Utah in the spring heading to the desert and of course will have to run the furnace.In the two years we had the trailer we have not had a problem once I figured out how to set the thermostat, (senior moments).
Just my two cents worth.For you out there with problems I fully understand your worries, but let's hope your problems can be solved without too much headache.
Safe travel and a Happy New Year with lots of trips.
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:03 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by KMG View Post
Are they still installing this furnace into their new units?
Presumably yes. That makes sense, because this is a proven furnace design from one of the two largest suppliers of RV furnaces in North America.

Although there are some people currently reporting problems, it's the same furnace that has been in use for three years... and that is a variation of a design that has been used without an unusual degree of problems for decades. There are control board problems, and sail switch issues... which describes the world of RV furnaces.

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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I’ve wondered why ETI chose the Atwood furnace . It appears that size may have been a determining factor due to the cabinet layout . A physically larger furnace such as a Suburban may have led to a drawer being eliminated or a different cabinet layout .
Escape had to change from the old 8012 because it was discontinued. Reace explained the choice of the Atwood AFSAD12 at the time; he assessed it as a better design than the Suburban alternative. The proportions of the AFSAD12 required location and cabinet changes compared to the 8012 anyway, and the NT-16SEQ (presumably the model that would be appropriate) would be smaller than the current Atwood. There are larger Suburbans, but they start at 20,000 BTU/hour (which is likely too high for the trailer).

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
The outside access door makes repairs easier but it does nothing to improve reliability .
I agree. The Atwood/Dometic AFSAD / DFSAD furnaces are clearly designed for installation with the exterior access door; switching to this installation method was the obvious choice once the vertical-wall body design was adopted.
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Old 12-31-2018, 04:07 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chama View Post
Since hope is not a strategy, we are also bringing an electric heater to orientation, as back-up. I sure don't like the thought of staying a few nights in Washington, Oregon then over Siskiyou Summit in January in a trailer without a functioning furnace and with no other heat source.
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Purchasing a backup electric heater is not the solution if you want to camp without hookups
My father was traveling recently in very cold weather and I suggested a propane backup just in case. You do not want to be caught without a plan B or your trip is over. I recommend a Mr. Heater Buddy or Big Buddy. Cheap insurance.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU..._t2_B01DD6C4TC

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F27.../dp/B01DD6C4TC
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Old 12-31-2018, 05:58 PM   #26
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My observation regarding the extent of problems and doom-and-gloom statements: ETI produces upwards of 250 trailers per year (my estimate: at least one per work day). The Atwood AFSAD12 has been used since at least summer 2015 (ours is Sept. 2015 - 3¼ yrs. of perfect operation; we drive slowly/carefully on rough or dirt roads; we cover the trailer when stored.). There is what appears to be about a 1%± difficulty rate, per posts and comments. I have met and talked with Reace, both on the phone and in person, and am convinced that his high priority is the integrity and well-being of what he produces.

If I had to chose now, I would definitely purchase an Escape over any of the other similar products available.
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:02 PM   #27
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Also note that pencil leads break frequently, but pencils are still better than pens for writing in the rain.
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:22 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by dfandrews View Post
My observation regarding the extent of problems and doom-and-gloom statements: ETI produces upwards of 250 trailers per year (my estimate: at least one per work day).
Pretty close, Reace recently mentioned they are doing 40 a month.
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:28 PM   #29
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Writing instruments

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Also note that pencil leads break frequently, but pencils are still better than pens for writing in the rain.
I don’t care for people who are unfairly critical of governmental affairs when they really don’t know what they’re talking about. A guy I know was critical of the amount of money spent on the space program. He thought the amount of money spent on the “writes upside down pen” was ridiculous. He said the Russians used a pencil. I asked him if it was the same pencil they used to design Chernobyl. I said he was a guy, not a friend and he doesn’t talk to me now. Oh Well.
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Old 01-09-2019, 12:22 AM   #30
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I don’t care for people who are unfairly critical of governmental affairs when they really don’t know what they’re talking about. A guy I know was critical of the amount of money spent on the space program. He thought the amount of money spent on the “writes upside down pen” was ridiculous. He said the Russians used a pencil. I asked him if it was the same pencil they used to design Chernobyl. I said he was a guy, not a friend and he doesn’t talk to me now. Oh Well.
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That whole (actual) story is pretty fascinating, although it makes for a less satisfying rant. The initial R&D money on the "space pen" was actually private, and the pen was then sold to NASA. Russia ended up buying it as well - turns out having shards of graphite and wood floating around in your space capsule is a very bad thing, and grease pencils are just bad for writing in general (and still leave paper bits/dust floating around)
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:49 AM   #31
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Our 2001 (? can't remember exactly) Scamp had furnace problems and the furnace had to be replaced. Our 97 (?) Jayco Eagle 5th wheel had furnace issues. Our 2003 Bigfoot was on at least the 2nd furnace when we purchased it. Our 2012 Cougar had issues that a dealer had to fix. Our Escape 5.0 has sail switch problems. We like to camp in cold weather and use the furnace. Others don't use their furnace. Considering how many Escapes have been sold and how many have problems here, I'd say the furnace is relatively trouble-free (notice I said relatively). Remember, many bought their Escape campers to camp in cold weather vs other brands (OK, exclude Bigfoot and Lance, etc.). There is NO furnace in ANY camper that is trouble free, just read other forums furnace problems.

I just got off the phone with Dometic (Atwood?). They are sending us a new sail switch. I feel our sail switch is slightly sticky and it will be interesting to see if this fixes the problem. I also have decided to remove the sail switch after ten nights of using the furnace and blow the switch with a can of air. We'll see over time if this fixes the sail switch problem and I'll report back if something crops up.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:23 PM   #32
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There is NO furnace in ANY camper that is trouble free, just read other forums furnace problems.
How about Propex that I have mentioned in another thread? I wonder if any OEM’s in N. America are using them? Have to be better than Suburban and Atwood/Dometic.

https://www.propexheatsource.com/
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:53 PM   #33
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We use our furnace when it is cold. When it is cold, battery output drops. When battery output drops, the blower fan will run more slowly. When the blower fan runs more slowly, less air is pushed against the sail, When the sail gets less wind from the blower, it cannot develop enough leverage to trip the switch (sail switch)
An otherwise functional heater does not work in cold weather - this is a battery issue. And there may be nothing wrong with the battery ! Relocate to warmer climes and all the issues, and expense, disappear . My solution was to get rid of the forced air furnace and replace it with an Olympic Wave catalytic. No moving parts. Less temperature sensitivity.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:00 PM   #34
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I always have hookups when it is below freezing, as a safety issue as well as having an electric heater as back up.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:28 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjola@gmail.com View Post
We use our furnace when it is cold. When it is cold, battery output drops. When battery output drops, the blower fan will run more slowly. When the blower fan runs more slowly, less air is pushed against the sail, When the sail gets less wind from the blower, it cannot develop enough leverage to trip the switch (sail switch)
An otherwise functional heater does not work in cold weather - this is a battery issue. And there may be nothing wrong with the battery ! Relocate to warmer climes and all the issues, and expense, disappear . My solution was to get rid of the forced air furnace and replace it with an Olympic Wave catalytic. No moving parts. Less temperature sensitivity.
Our furnace ran fine in freezing temps, with batteries as low as 11.8 volts. It was the sail switch not battery voltage, or outside temperature, that was the problem.

Knowing how Murphy works, we should be carrying a spare board, as well as a second sail switch so our furnace will never fail again.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:24 PM   #36
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In my instance, the sail switch was occasionally failing to close, but more frequently failing to open after the blower stopped for the cycle. The issue persisted after cleaning the lint from the switch and blowing it out with canned air. I just received the replacement switch tonight so once I have a chance to reinstall I can provide an update. One important thing to note is that the correct switch for my furnace is #33063, which is not what the dometic rep was going to send initially.
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:11 PM   #37
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One important thing to note is that the correct switch for my furnace is #33063, which is not what the dometic rep was going to send initially.
Is this the Dometic part number for the switch or a part number on the switch? Decades ago the manufacturers used switches made by Microswitch, which were readily available and cheap at electronic stores and many hobby shops as they were used on train sets. Honeywell bought the company some years ago.
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:13 PM   #38
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In terms of furnace reliability, I suspect to some extent it's deliberate. That is, multiple components within it (especially the sail switch) are designed to "fail safe" in a way that doesn't risk a fire. So, it's designed to basically shut down if anything at all isn't quite right. I'd call that the right design decision, even if it's sometimes a huge pain.
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:44 PM   #39
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This is the Dometic part # which was also confirmed by Escape. Apparently the same model# used a different switch previously, which had a wider and shorter sail. The domestic rep said there was a note regarding serial #'s where after a certain # they changed. Based on my experience they are not interchangeable.
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpresco2002 View Post
This is the Dometic part # which was also confirmed by Escape. Apparently the same model# used a different switch previously, which had a wider and shorter sail. The domestic rep said there was a note regarding serial #'s where after a certain # they changed. Based on my experience they are not interchangeable.
Interesting.

Here is Dometic 33063:
https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...ch-33063-mg32b

This was the switch previously used which is 31093 based on Atwood AFSAD12 manual:
https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...l-switch-31093

You can see the difference in the paddle.
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