Batteries Leaking

[J Mac]

when changing from a single 12v battery system to twin 6v batteries should there be a change made to the controller, so the controller knows it's charging two 6v batteries instead of one 12v battery?

[ReagentGrade]

Originally Posted by J Mac

when changing from a single 12v battery system to twin 6v batteries should there be a change made to the controller, so the controller knows it's charging two 6v batteries instead of one 12v battery?

I'll venture a guess here...

My answer would be no, unless the 6V batteries are of a different chemistry. Changed from 12V flooded to 2x6V flooded shouldn't require any change.

If you changed from a flooded 12V to two 6V AGMs, a setting change might be beneficial.

If you changed from a 12V lead acid to lithium (as I did) you definitely need a setting change. I selected a solar charge controller that can support lithium. I also bypassed the converter in the WFCO power center with one that supports lithium batteries.

[DMPortland]

The ring connectors appear to be copper on our 2012 Escape - but I do like the idea of marine grade electrical hardware.

Is the trailer wire to the batteries 8 gauge?

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by thoer

Of course?? The ones on our 6 year old 17 still looked like new when I sold it.

Hey Eric
I'm one of the lucky ones too. Dad showed me how to check, clean, tighten and seal battery cables over 50 years ago and I've never had one melt away in 50 years. Cars, trucks,tractors, boats, mowers, campers. Pay attention to that stuff boy or it will end up costing you money you could have spent on something you need. Thanks Dad
Iowa Dave.

[Chapitre]

Originally Posted by Devil Dog

If there over filled , find a glass or plastic eye dropper form a medicine bottle and remove some ACID from each cell to the proper level . Use baking soda to dilute before disposal .

"Proper" level is mentioned, but what exactly is the proper level?

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Chapitre

"Proper" level is mentioned, but what exactly is the proper level?

Hi: Chapitre... I'd say "Proper" is making sure the plates are completely submerged. Others will have a different definition I'm sure. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Hey Eric
I'm one of the lucky ones too. Dad showed me how to check, clean, tighten and seal battery cables over 50 years ago and I've never had one melt away in 50 years. Cars, trucks,tractors, boats, mowers, campers. Pay attention to that stuff boy or it will end up costing you money you could have spent on something you need. Thanks Dad
Iowa Dave.

Hi: Iowa Dave... BEER!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: Chapitre... I'd say "Proper" is making sure the plates are completely submerged. Others will have a different definition I'm sure. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Yep, anywhere between that and the bottom of the fill cup will do fine. Just be certain the plates do not get exposed.

[War Eagle]

I was taught that "proper" full level is bottom of the fill cup, so that's what I do. That gives you reserve fluid above the plates to keep the plates covered over time (several months). If all you do is cover the plates, it won't be long before they are no longer covered.

[padlin]

I've read something like 1/8" below the bottom of the fill cups, if that's what they are called. As I usually can't see down there that well I go for the bottoms same as War Eagle.

[cpaharley2008]

Fifty five years ago I used one of these fillers working at the filling station. Back then we pumped your gas, washed your windows, checked your oil and battery all for $.25/gal. The filler would stop right before the top of the cell, maybe 1/4" to allow some bubbling when being charged. Some had 3 caps others were 6 caps, depending on the voltage. Back then the hard part was knowing where the gas cap was as some models hid them well.

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Fifty five years ago I used one of these fillers working at the filling station. Back then we pumped your gas, washed your windows, checked your oil and battery all for $.25/gal. The filler would stop right before the top of the cell, maybe 1/4" to allow some bubbling when being charged. Some had 3 caps others were 6 caps, depending on the voltage. Back then the hard part was knowing where the gas cap was as some models hid them well.

Behind the taillight was the one that got me.

[Donna D.]

A turkey baster ($1 at the Dollar Store), "some" distilled water, a flashlight and a telescoping mirror (<$4 at Harbor Freight) and you can easily fill the battery(ies) to their proper levels... right to the "ring." You'll know when you've hit it, because the water in the ring concaves. No guessing or hoping you've done it right.

[thoer]

Great tips Donna. Most new batteries also have cutout slots by the ring that also make it easier to see the water level

[AKCamper]

Donna,
I used to think that to the rings was the correct level too, but i have found out that although a hot battery level might be to the rings the proper level is:
The normal fluid level is about 1/2 inch (1 cm) above the tops of the plates or about 1/8 inch (3 mm) below the bottoms of the filler tubes that extend down from the port openings.
Note: you can fill to the bottom of the rings, but it is recommended to keep it below them, the rings are the absolute maximum. I guess I just mean to say it is better to be just below the rings than at or above them, and temperature has a roll to play in this.

[padlin]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Fifty five years ago I used one of these fillers working at the filling station. Back then we pumped your gas, washed your windows, checked your oil and battery all for $.25/gal. The filler would stop right before the top of the cell, maybe 1/4" to allow some bubbling when being charged. Some had 3 caps others were 6 caps, depending on the voltage. Back then the hard part was knowing where the gas cap was as some models hid them well.

Bought one of these fillers last year, a waste of $, doesn't work for beans. If you get oe, buy it locally so you can return it if you get the same results.

[AKCamper]

Originally Posted by padlin

Bought one of these fillers last year, a waste of $, doesn't work for beans. If you get oe, buy it locally so you can return it if you get the same results.

I think Donna has the right tool (a turkey baster) with a jug of distilled water. It's not like you are filling hundreds of batteries.

[Chapitre]

Thanks everyone for the great advise, I think I'll go with the turkey baister....and now I know the proper way to do it.

[SFDavis50]

Originally Posted by AKCamper

Donna,
I used to think that to the rings was the correct level too, but i have found out that although a hot battery level might be to the rings the proper level is:
The normal fluid level is about 1/2 inch (1 cm) above the tops of the plates or about 1/8 inch (3 mm) below the bottoms of the filler tubes that extend down from the port openings.
Note: you can fill to the bottom of the rings, but it is recommended to keep it below them, the rings are the absolute maximum. I guess I just mean to say it is better to be just below the rings than at or above them, and temperature has a roll to play in this.

I agree with keeping the level just below the bottom of the rings. And, the slots are to keep the internal pressure in each of the cells equal all times. Air can compress, water can't. Bouncing down the road while the partially depleted battery is recharging causes sloshing, heat buildup causes the water to expand and as the battery relieves pressure thru the caps, some of the liquid splashed up onto the internal seal of the caps will leak out along with the excess air/gas. Slightly less water will lead to less outgassing in the cels, less leaking of water and fewer refills of the water. The few less amps the battery will fully charge to will never be missed.

[Posttoasties]

After much reading on this forum I have decided that I want to remove the batteries before we store our trailer for the winter. Our Escape will be stored in a covered, unheated pole shed and will not be accessible from next week until mid-March at the earliest. In January or February our temps can dip to -20 or -30 (actual – not “feels like”) - sometimes for days at a time. I don’t want to take a chance that somehow (?) the batteries discharge and freeze and I’m willing to lug them to the basement to prevent that. My questions: What do I need to be aware of when storing batteries in the basement? I’ve heard that they need to be up off the floor or they will discharge. How much ventilation do they need? How often should they be re-charged? I’m looking at the “Battery Tender Junior” – will that have enough charging power to keep the batteries “topped up”? And do I need to be concerned with opening a window or something while the batteries are charging?