Battery Fuse(s)?? - Escape Trailer Owners Community

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Problem Solving | Owners helping each other
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-21-2019, 12:11 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Trailer: 2010 Escape 17B (The Errant Escape)
Posts: 236
Battery Fuse(s)??

My 2010 17B just got two new T-105 6 volt batteries, which are installed in series. They are fully charged.

I am suffering from no 12 volt battery power into the trailer. When on shore power all systems work, AC and DC. I have checked the battery disconnect switch, which is in the up (connected) position. In reviewing posts on the forum I have seen references to a 'battery fuse'. I have been unable to find any fuses in the entire trailer other than those in the power controller. I checked all those fuses and they check good. They consist of individual function fuses and two labeled 'reverse battery protection'.

Is there another fuse block somewhere? There are none visible in the vicinity of the batteries. The only other thing I can think of is a bad disconnect switch. The ground wire is firmly attached to the chassis.
__________________

__________________
For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong. (H. L. Mencken)
marant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2019, 01:35 PM   #2
Site Team
 
padlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: 5.0 TA #6, 2012 F150 EB
Posts: 6,295
I believe the battery fuse only showed up in late model trailers, my 2014 did not have one till I installed it. There is however a 50A circuit breaker that looks like this. It can go bad. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CBC-...6956802&sr=8-8

It's between the batteries and the 12v cutoff switch.

I'd suggest you double check that the batteries are hooked up correctly first.
__________________

__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2019, 03:57 PM   #3
Site Team
 
cpaharley2008's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#4, 2019 Escape21 DejaView pulled by 2014 Ram Hemi/8sp
Posts: 21,959
I carry one of those 50 amp breakers in my tool box since 2014, that way I'll know I'll never need it....
__________________
Jim
Due to the pandemic, my life now exists of only 3 days, yesterday, today, and tomorrow. Everything else has been forgotten!
cpaharley2008 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2019, 04:22 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 5,306
This is a case where even the cheapest of multimeters or even a 12 volt bulb with leads are worth their weight in gold.

So quick to isolate the problem. Negative on negative terminal of battery and take the positive lead and go poke, poke, bingo. Follow the power, 12 volt at battery, check; 12 volt at in terminal of master switch, no, must be a fuse or fault in between. If yes, keep going until the power ends.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2019, 05:39 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Vermilye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 3,809
A simple, quick check of either the disconnect switch or the auto reset circuit breaker is to short across the terminals with a screwdriver. If things come on, the switch or breaker is open.

Be sure you don't find a negative connection in the process, but in my trailers there were no negative connections in the area.
__________________
Jon Vermilye My Travel Blog
Travel and Photo Web Page ... My Collection of RV Blogs 2018 F150 3.5EB, 2017 21
Vermilye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2019, 07:12 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 5,306
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
A simple, quick check of either the disconnect switch or the auto reset circuit breaker is to short across the terminals with a screwdriver. If things come on, the switch or breaker is open.
And if they get an arc and a spark and recoil in terror striking a body part on something solid they won't be amused.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 01:33 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 1,999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
A simple, quick check of either the disconnect switch or the auto reset circuit breaker is to short across the terminals with a screwdriver. If things come on, the switch or breaker is open.

Be sure you don't find a negative connection in the process, but in my trailers there were no negative connections in the area.
I always have a DVM in the back of my truck, along with my toolboxes.
__________________
2014 Escape 21 (home away from home)
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 4x4 (tug)
1993 Mercedes 300CE Cabriolet (daily driver)
2006 Yellow Lab (Maggie... RIP Feb 2019 )
John in Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 07:39 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Naples, Florida
Trailer: New 21 Escape (not classic)10/16 Sold Lil Snoozy 7/16
Posts: 427
Fuse

On our 2016 non classic we have 2 six volt batteries that have a 40 amp fuse Which is in the plastic battery box supplied by ETI . I keep a spare since it has blown once?
jennykatz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 01:33 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - since 1/9/2017
Posts: 1,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by marant View Post
My 2010 17B just got two new T-105 6 volt batteries, which are installed in series. They are fully charged.

I am suffering from no 12 volt battery power into the trailer. When on shore power all systems work, AC and DC. I have checked the battery disconnect switch, which is in the up (connected) position. In reviewing posts on the forum I have seen references to a 'battery fuse'. I have been unable to find any fuses in the entire trailer other than those in the power controller. I checked all those fuses and they check good. They consist of individual function fuses and two labeled 'reverse battery protection'.

Is there another fuse block somewhere? There are none visible in the vicinity of the batteries. The only other thing I can think of is a bad disconnect switch. The ground wire is firmly attached to the chassis.
Below is a wiring diagram for your trailer. Also a pic of a thermal fuse. These might help in tracing your wiring.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Battery wiring - 17.jpg (14.1 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg Thermal fuse.jpg (147.6 KB, 42 views)
__________________
If It Isnít Perfect, It Isnít Finished
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 01:40 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 1,999
Quote:
Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
On our 2016 non classic we have 2 six volt batteries that have a 40 amp fuse Which is in the plastic battery box supplied by ETI . I keep a spare since it has blown once?
40 amps seems low for a 12V system, thats 480 watts give or take.

my 2014 21' with dual 6V has no fuse at all on the battery, just the thermal breaker, which is like 100 amp or something. I have the 160 watt factory solar...
__________________
2014 Escape 21 (home away from home)
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 4x4 (tug)
1993 Mercedes 300CE Cabriolet (daily driver)
2006 Yellow Lab (Maggie... RIP Feb 2019 )
John in Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 01:47 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Naples, Florida
Trailer: New 21 Escape (not classic)10/16 Sold Lil Snoozy 7/16
Posts: 427
Fuse

John thatís what my camper came with We have the twin 6volt batteries with a 160 watt solar My fuse popped when I put in a 2000watt inverter system ? We replaced the fuse and bought a spare and itís been good for 3years now .Jim W
jennykatz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 01:56 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 1,999
2000 watts is about 170 amps at 12V, probably should use a 200 amp fuse (and HUGE wiring)
__________________
2014 Escape 21 (home away from home)
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 4x4 (tug)
1993 Mercedes 300CE Cabriolet (daily driver)
2006 Yellow Lab (Maggie... RIP Feb 2019 )
John in Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 02:29 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Naples, Florida
Trailer: New 21 Escape (not classic)10/16 Sold Lil Snoozy 7/16
Posts: 427
Inverter

John I was talking about batteries fuse which is in the plastic box provided by ETI not the inverter For my 2000 watt inverter I put in a 150amp circuit breaker and I believe number 2AWG wire
jennykatz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 02:35 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - since 1/9/2017
Posts: 1,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
John I was talking about batteries fuse which is in the plastic box provided by ETI not the inverter For my 2000 watt inverter I put in a 150amp circuit breaker
The bussmann maxi fuse that Escape installed is a little small - I put a 60 amp in mine. The WFCO converter can put out 55 amps if the batteries are really low - that will pop a 40 amp fuse.

The inverter should have been fed by a 200 amp inline fuse. 150 amp is a little small for your inverter. A 200 amp was what Escape put in my trailer for the inverter.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Bussmann Maxi.jpg (94.0 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg 200 amp fuse.jpg (17.7 KB, 12 views)
__________________
If It Isnít Perfect, It Isnít Finished
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 06:44 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Naples, Florida
Trailer: New 21 Escape (not classic)10/16 Sold Lil Snoozy 7/16
Posts: 427
Fuse /circuit breaker

I misspoke itís a circuit breaker 150 amps for the 2000 watt inverter Never a problem in 3 years and we run a microwave and TV set off the inverter when we boondocks although not very often . but the battery box is a 40 amp fuse put in byETI
jennykatz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 09:25 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 3,931
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
I believe the battery fuse only showed up in late model trailers, my 2014 did not have one till I installed it. There is however a 50A circuit breaker that looks like this. It can go bad. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CBC-...6956802&sr=8-8

It's between the batteries and the 12v cutoff switch.
I plan to add an inline fuse near the battery as our 2010 doesnít have one and it sounds like a good idea. If I do this should the 50A auto reset breaker under the dinette seat near the 12V disconnect switch be removed? It would seem odd to have two protection devices inline.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
__________________
ďOne way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.Ē― W.F.
rubicon327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2019, 10:41 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - since 1/9/2017
Posts: 1,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
I plan to add an inline fuse near the battery as our 2010 doesn’t have one and it sounds like a good idea. If I do this should the 50A auto reset breaker under the dinette seat near the 12V disconnect switch be removed? It would seem odd to have two protection devices inline.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The inline fuse at the battery protects the wiring from the battery to the thermal fuse. Since it would (hopefully) be a rare instance that the inline fuse blew, the thermal fuse would protect the other devices on the circuit from overcurrent.

As such, the inline fuse can be rated to prevent catastrophic meltdown and not overcurrent protection for devices other than the battery.

So, yes - it would be normal to have both protection devices in series. One to protect the wire and the other to protect everything else.

I used 6 awg wire from the battery with a 60 amp inline fuse with thermal fuses for the other devices.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Battery wiring.jpg (14.0 KB, 32 views)
__________________
If It Isnít Perfect, It Isnít Finished
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2019, 07:55 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 3,931
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
The inline fuse at the battery protects the wiring from the battery to the thermal fuse. Since it would (hopefully) be a rare instance that the inline fuse blew, the thermal fuse would protect the other devices on the circuit from overcurrent.

As such, the inline fuse can be rated to prevent catastrophic meltdown and not overcurrent protection for devices other than the battery.

So, yes - it would be normal to have both protection devices in series. One to protect the wire and the other to protect everything else.

I used 6 awg wire from the battery with a 60 amp inline fuse with thermal fuses for the other devices.

Thanks Tom!
__________________
ďOne way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.Ē― W.F.
rubicon327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2019, 10:01 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - since 1/9/2017
Posts: 1,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Thanks Tom!
There is an old thread that discusses the inline fuse blowing and after a lot of research, it was determined that the 7 pin pigtail was getting wet and shorting to ground causing the 40 amp inline fuse to blow. Escape had the power to the 7 pin, power jack, and the emergency brake circuit all on one power wire coming directly from the battery through the inline 40 amp fuse. The battery cutoff switch did not turn this circuit off.

One solution to fix this is to install a thermal fuse on the power going to the 7 pin and power jack. At the same time, a separate power feed should be installed to the emergency brake circuit so it would always have power. You don't want your emergency brake circuit to fail just because the thermal fuse tripped.

I upgraded my wiring to 6 awg from the 8 awg Escape installed so it would be able to handle the full 55 amps the converter "could" supply to the batteries. As the inline fuse is only there for catastrophic failure (ie, dead short of the wire), I could replace it with a 100 amp fuse and be safe. So far, the 60 amp fuse has been fine but I carry a 100 amp fuse as a spare.

Notice in my wiring diagram that the power to the power jack has been changed to after the battery cutoff switch. I can now turn off the battery cutoff switch and the power jack is inoperative making the trailer a little harder to steal. 600 lbs of tongue weight is more than most people can lift and that jack being down is probably going to drag. There are multiple ways around this but I have other things that mess with a thief and every little bit helps.
__________________
If It Isnít Perfect, It Isnít Finished
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2019, 11:37 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Trailer: 2010 Escape 17B (The Errant Escape)
Posts: 236
Update to Battery Problems with Solution:

Due in great measure to help from Tom (tdf) I have solved the problem. Spent a lot of time with multimeter, being frustrated that I could never get a reading where I should. Ultimately decided that the batteries themselves were not wired correctly. Batteries measured 6.5 v each, but could only get 13v part of the time, with no logic to when I could or could not. Changing the wiring at the batteries seemed to make a difference some of the time, not others. Finally decided it must be the series connection between the batteries. Checked wiring with ohm meter, no continuity at all.

Rigged up an outside wire to use to make series connection, and suddenly everything works as it should. 12v inside trailer, solar controller and system working correctly.
Stripped out the installed series connection wire, found 14 g wire with a butt splice (crimped only) that had separated. Obviously was intermittent while separating until it parted completely (I hate intermittents). Will install a new series wire, 6 or 8 g, in a single piece with new soldered ends.

I think it is easy for one with little electrical skills (me) to concentrate on the wiring that powers the trailer itself and 'does something', and neglect to realize that the series wiring is just as important, even though it does not appear to connect to anything important.

Thanks, everyone, and again, special thanks to Tom. A real resource and gentleman.
__________________

__________________
For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong. (H. L. Mencken)
marant is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×