Brake problem. Grounding issue?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Ron what is a copper buss wire ? Pat

This is what Ron did for all the grounds on his previous 19.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f1...tml#post232672

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

This is what Ron did for all the grounds on his previous 19.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f1...tml#post232672

Dave remember the picture post before ,but still in the dark . I see looks like a battery post ? How is it on the frame ? Pat

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

I think I found the source of my problem. Inside I find all the pins have corrosion!

I'd still like to know how the trailer brakes are grounded since I didn't see any grounding on my brakes. However, the brakes do seem to be getting power, so there must be a ground somewhere.

Good trouble shooting. That was one butt ugly mess.

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I assume you're not doing this in your driveway Ron.

Unless you've got a heated tall warehouse that I can use, yes. Lucky I'm doing this before Thanksgiving dinner this weekend. I can never refuse a second helping. I can just lie on my back and slide under the water tank to get to the center area, after a huge dinner, maybe not.

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Dave remember the picture post before ,but still in the dark . I see looks like a battery post ? How is it on the frame ? Pat

Pat, I drilled and tapped a hole and inserted a s/s bolt to act as a mounting stud. All the grounds lugs are on it. It was then coated with liquid electrical tape. The buss wire just picks up the various ground wires and takes them to a common point, a good solid ground.

To the upper left of the lug you can see a hole with a bit of rust. That's one of the original ground points. Metal screws into the frame cut into raw steel that will inevitably rust.

Yes Jim, I think that the spray foam would go a long way towards keeping the grounds in good condition.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Good trouble shooting. That was one butt ugly mess.


Unless you've got a heated tall warehouse that I can use, yes. Lucky I'm doing this before Thanksgiving dinner this weekend. I can never refuse a second helping. I can just lie on my back and slide under the water tank to get to the center area, after a huge dinner, maybe not.



Pat, I drilled and tapped a hole and inserted a s/s bolt to act as a mounting stud. All the grounds lugs are on it. It was then coated with liquid electrical tape. The buss wire just picks up the various ground wires and takes them to a common point, a good solid ground.

To the upper left of the lug you can see a hole with a bit of rust. That's one of the original ground points. Metal screws into the frame cut into raw steel that will inevitably rust.

Yes Jim, I think that the spray foam would go a long way towards keeping the grounds in good condition.

Ron

Ron I also did see the rust spot above . Ok I think I get it but is it ok to drill in the frame ? Remember Tom didn’t want me to do that for the dump valves . But because I need to ground things it has to go into frame ? Pat

[Ron in BC]

As so many of these answers go, it depends.

It depends on where on the frame and the size of the hole. Location plays a large factor in whether it creates a structural problem. For example, a vertical hole, through the top and bottom of the rectangular tube in a high stress location, think near where the tongue meets the body, is not the best idea. Misc. small holes in the side of the tube are unlikely to create a problem.

The transverse pieces of the frame can pretty much be drilled any which way.

Ron

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

\ The ground wire exiting and attached to the bottom of the frame with a tiny sheet metal screw.

Thanks much Ron in BC for finding the ground on your trailer. I assume mine has one too, but I have yet to find it.

Today I cut off the two corroded connectors on my F-150 (see my previous post) and directly connected each wire. The trailer definitely has stronger brakes now. I still can't get it to lock up (as described in the F-150 owner's manual), but I can set the integrated brake controller so it is between the trailer pushing and pulling on the truck when braking. I'm happy.

Thanks everyone for your assistance and especially Ron in BC,

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

As so many of these answers go, it depends.

It depends on where on the frame and the size of the hole. Location plays a large factor in whether it creates a structural problem. For example, a vertical hole, through the top and bottom of the rectangular tube in a high stress location, think near where the tongue meets the body, is not the best idea. Misc. small holes in the side of the tube are unlikely to create a problem.

The transverse pieces of the frame can pretty much be drilled any which way.

Ron

Thanks yet again for the knowledge ! Pat

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

... But because I need to ground things it has to go into frame?

There are two valid connections to the frame: one for the AC protective ground, and a single connection of the negative side of the DC system. There is no need for any other frame connections. The frame can be used as a negative conductor, and this is done in the automotive world all the time, but unless the connections are done well it causes more problems than saving a bit of wire is worth. Making good frame connections is a valid way to establish a negative circuit connection, but a self-tapping screw into a hole in the frame through a eye terminal on a wire is not a "good connection".

I don't recall ever seeing an automotive-grade frame electrical connection on a trailer, of any kind or brand, but there might be lots of them that I just haven't seen.