Broken bolts - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Problem Solving | Owners helping each other
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-08-2020, 11:29 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 3,917
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyuill View Post
I wonder if my flange was installed upside down? One fix would be to add a piece of rectangular tube sitting on the flange with the bolts going all the way through. No welding required.
I doubt the flange was installed upside down. Even if the flange is flipped you still have the same problem just the bolts have less unsupported length. I agree that a rectangular tube between the box and the flange with graded thru bolts could work well.
__________________

__________________
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2020, 11:38 AM   #22
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Opelika, Alabama
Trailer: 2012 19
Posts: 89
Frame upgrades were done. I sent Escape photos and will report back. Thanks all

Graham
__________________

gyuill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2020, 12:36 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Chotch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Naugatuck, Connecticut
Trailer: 2017 50 TA, 2016 F150, 2.7 Ecoboost
Posts: 898
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyuill View Post
I repositioned the bolts on top of the nuts and you can see that the box was not on the frame. The bolts broke at the top of those nuts. I may call Escape and I am thinking about putting a wedge between the box and the frame. I agree the fiberglass held up well. Thank for the input.

Graham
🤔 Just a thought, make a few spacers from iron pipe that level the box. Add washers to top, the bigger the better. Now when you tighten bolts they’ll be in tension while taking most of the shear load off.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg 7350A496-6798-4077-9313-E4A40FD74E84.jpeg (56.6 KB, 7 views)
Chotch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2020, 12:43 PM   #24
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Opelika, Alabama
Trailer: 2012 19
Posts: 89
Chotch
That would certainly be an improvement. Thanks
gyuill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2020, 02:06 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
dfandrews's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 17A -- "The Pullman"
Posts: 1,962
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chotch View Post
�� Just a thought, make a few spacers from iron pipe that level the box. Add washers to top, the bigger the better. Now when you tighten bolts they’ll be in tension while taking most of the shear load off.

(1)My 2015 is as others have mentioned: flange is at the top and supporting the box.
(2)I agree with Chotch's solution for your particular case ( unless you want to go with a welded replacement flange ).
I would go with larger (1/2") replacement bolts, and pipe sleeves since you're supporting the weight and lateral motion of the box.
Components from top to bottom:
Bolt head
Fender washer (large outside diameter)
F/G box bottom
Fender washer
Nut


Washer
pipe sleeve
Washer
trailer Flange
Washer (option)
Lock washer
Nut - (I would use an elastic stop nut)
__________________
Don & Teresa
2015 17A: 2011 Honda Pilot
In Orbe Terrum Non Visi / RLTW
dfandrews is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2020, 04:35 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
AKCamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Posts: 462
Another solution might be to use a piece of oak 2X4 planned or ripped to the correct thickness I’m sure it would last a long time before It rotted out. A permanent solution might be to make block from the plastic boards used as facier boards I think it is PVC. Our house has those and corner boards made from that stuff, very tough.
AKCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2020, 06:25 PM   #27
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: seattle, Washington
Trailer: 2016 Escape 21
Posts: 31
Use stainless bolts.
bailiej757 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2020, 10:11 PM   #28
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2019 Escape 19
Posts: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
Another solution might be to use a piece of oak 2X4 planned or ripped to the correct thickness I’m sure it would last a long time before It rotted out. A permanent solution might be to make block from the plastic boards used as facier boards I think it is PVC. Our house has those and corner boards made from that stuff, very tough.
This is actually the best suggestion so far. I wonder if those are really long threaded bolts or Ready Rod (threaded rod with nuts at both ends). Anyway, these "bolts" have been used as columns and the nuts on the threads above the the mount flange are used to level the box. Bolts are not designed to be columns. The way this installation works puts the bolts in bending every time the trailer moves (forward, back, or sideways. If you install new ones again the same way the constant bending will cause a fatigue failure right at the nuts again where the bending is highest. Putting a block in as AKCamper has suggested will stop the bending and the bolts will be loaded in shear and tension as bolts are supposed to be used. The holes through the block should be a tight fit the keep the joint loaded in shear. On new 19's the frame is flat in this area which is how the flange at the top is right against the box and loaded in shear so it is a different (and structurally better) installation.
Mark B1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2020, 07:53 AM   #29
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Opelika, Alabama
Trailer: 2012 19
Posts: 89
Thanks all. I like the oak block idea and also I am considering a 3” x 1” section of rectangular tubing. I have a call in to Escape and will report back on their suggestions.
Graham
gyuill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2020, 08:18 AM   #30
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 3,917
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Jim the recall did not apply to 21's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyuill View Post
Frame upgrades were done.
My bad. I somehow thought that Graham (gyuill) had a 21. I see now that it is a 19.

Please include some pics of your solution. This may help many others that have an earlier trailer with the front box. Some may want to do the mod proactively to prevent any future issues.
__________________
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2020, 10:43 AM   #31
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Opelika, Alabama
Trailer: 2012 19
Posts: 89
Here is the response from Escape

“I have just received your voice mail, and the best solution is to simply change out the bolts with new bolts. There is no other solution that I would have for you.”

I had expected a little more from Escape and will look for some rectangular tubing.

Hello Graham,

I have just received your voice mail, and the best solution is to simply change out the bolts with new bolts. There is no other solution that I would have for you.“

I will look for some rectangular tubing snd will post photos of the repair.

Thanks everyone

Graham
gyuill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2020, 11:22 AM   #32
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2019 Escape 19
Posts: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyuill View Post
Thanks all. I like the oak block idea and also I am considering a 3” x 1” section of rectangular tubing. I have a call in to Escape and will report back on their suggestions.
Graham
The rectangular tubing, and I assume you mean steel, is a good idea and quite simple. I may be easier to source 3" x 1" C channel than tubing and will work the same way, and you could bolt the channel to the box at the top, and to the angle at the bottom using shorted bolts. Most places you buy the tubing, or channel will cut it to the length you need.

Another solution, and how it should have been done in the first place, is take it to a welding shop. Have them remove the existing angle from the frame and put a new agle up against the box for the bolts to go through. The vertical flange of the angle will need to be long enough to weld to the frame. Then you can use much shorter bolts , just long enough to go through the box and the flange of the angle. This is similar to how the box is installed on new 19's.
Mark B1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2020, 08:02 AM   #33
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Opelika, Alabama
Trailer: 2012 19
Posts: 89
Done

I used a 12 inch length of 3 inch “c” channel. The legs on the channel are 1.5 inches. 1 inch would have been too narrow to use the existing holes in the bottom angle iron support bracket (with the c channel against the frame/ angle iron).
Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Graham
Opelika Al
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg 51C92ECC-DB16-4B0C-BBD6-BD28CABBD536.jpeg (89.4 KB, 30 views)
gyuill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2020, 08:50 AM   #34
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2019 Escape 19
Posts: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyuill View Post
I used a 12 inch length of 3 inch “c” channel. The legs on the channel are 1.5 inches. 1 inch would have been too narrow to use the existing holes in the bottom angle iron support bracket (with the c channel against the frame/ angle iron).
Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Graham
Opelika Al
Much better
Mark B1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2020, 10:58 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 5,299
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyuill View Post
I used a 12 inch length of 3 inch “c” channel. The legs on the channel are 1.5 inches. 1 inch would have been too narrow to use the existing holes in the bottom angle iron support bracket (with the c channel against the frame/ angle iron).
Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Graham
Opelika Al


Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2020, 11:16 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Chotch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Naugatuck, Connecticut
Trailer: 2017 50 TA, 2016 F150, 2.7 Ecoboost
Posts: 898
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyuill View Post
I used a 12 inch length of 3 inch “c” channel. The legs on the channel are 1.5 inches. 1 inch would have been too narrow to use the existing holes in the bottom angle iron support bracket (with the c channel against the frame/ angle iron).
Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Graham
Opelika Al
Nice! Don’t think you’ll have to revisit this problem. Think I would have used 4 shorter bolts instead of the 2 long ones. C channel to frame then box to C channel.
Chotch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2020, 11:58 AM   #37
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Opelika, Alabama
Trailer: 2012 19
Posts: 89
Chotch. 4 shorter bolts would be easier and not require as exact placement of holes. But the inside surface of the leg is wedged shaped, not flat like angle iron. I am not sure if all c channel is made this way.

Graham
Opelika Al
gyuill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2020, 04:22 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 12,476
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyuill View Post
4 shorter bolts would be easier and not require as exact placement of holes. But the inside surface of the leg is wedged shaped, not flat like angle iron. I am not sure if all c channel is made this way.
Good point. Rolled C-channel made from a solid bar typically has this issue, but C (or U) channel bent from a flat plate does not. There's even channel which is rolled like the usual stuff with non-parallel flanges (called UPN sections) but has parallel flanges (called UPE sections). Angle iron comes both ways as well.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2020, 08:21 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Burlington, Vermont
Trailer: 2014 17b/RAV4 (sold) 2011Chevy Colorado
Posts: 682
I'm gonna check our storage box. We have had two bolt failures on the scissor jacks. Replaced with stainless.
yardsale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2020, 09:50 AM   #40
Senior Member
 
C&G in FL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA (Little Elsie) Extensively Personalized
Posts: 1,848
Quote:
Originally Posted by yardsale View Post
I'm gonna check our storage box. We have had two bolt failures on the scissor jacks. Replaced with stainless.
Stainless steel is typically used when rust-free application is desired, but stainless steel hardware does not have the tensile strength of carbon steel. Stainless steel hardware purchased from Lowe’s, Home Depot, Menard’s, or the local hardware store falls into this category. Grade 8 stainless steel can be obtained from companies such as American Racing Products but it is more expensive than that which is obtained from the previously mentioned retailers.
__________________

__________________
What a long strange trip it’s been!
C&G in FL is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×