Broken bolts

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by gyuill

I wonder if my flange was installed upside down? One fix would be to add a piece of rectangular tube sitting on the flange with the bolts going all the way through. No welding required.

I doubt the flange was installed upside down. Even if the flange is flipped you still have the same problem just the bolts have less unsupported length. I agree that a rectangular tube between the box and the flange with graded thru bolts could work well.

[gyuill]

Frame upgrades were done. I sent Escape photos and will report back. Thanks all

Graham

[Chotch]

Originally Posted by gyuill

I repositioned the bolts on top of the nuts and you can see that the box was not on the frame. The bolts broke at the top of those nuts. I may call Escape and I am thinking about putting a wedge between the box and the frame. I agree the fiberglass held up well. Thank for the input.

Graham

🤔 Just a thought, make a few spacers from iron pipe that level the box. Add washers to top, the bigger the better. Now when you tighten bolts they’ll be in tension while taking most of the shear load off.

[gyuill]

Chotch
That would certainly be an improvement. Thanks

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by Chotch

�� Just a thought, make a few spacers from iron pipe that level the box. Add washers to top, the bigger the better. Now when you tighten bolts they’ll be in tension while taking most of the shear load off.

(1)My 2015 is as others have mentioned: flange is at the top and supporting the box.
(2)I agree with Chotch's solution for your particular case ( unless you want to go with a welded replacement flange ).
I would go with larger (1/2") replacement bolts, and pipe sleeves since you're supporting the weight and lateral motion of the box.
Components from top to bottom:
Bolt head
Fender washer (large outside diameter)
F/G box bottom
Fender washer
Nut


Washer
pipe sleeve
Washer
trailer Flange
Washer (option)
Lock washer
Nut - (I would use an elastic stop nut)

[AKCamper]

Another solution might be to use a piece of oak 2X4 planned or ripped to the correct thickness I’m sure it would last a long time before It rotted out. A permanent solution might be to make block from the plastic boards used as facier boards I think it is PVC. Our house has those and corner boards made from that stuff, very tough.

[bailiej757]

Use stainless bolts.

[Mark B1]

Originally Posted by AKCamper

Another solution might be to use a piece of oak 2X4 planned or ripped to the correct thickness I’m sure it would last a long time before It rotted out. A permanent solution might be to make block from the plastic boards used as facier boards I think it is PVC. Our house has those and corner boards made from that stuff, very tough.

This is actually the best suggestion so far. I wonder if those are really long threaded bolts or Ready Rod (threaded rod with nuts at both ends). Anyway, these "bolts" have been used as columns and the nuts on the threads above the the mount flange are used to level the box. Bolts are not designed to be columns. The way this installation works puts the bolts in bending every time the trailer moves (forward, back, or sideways. If you install new ones again the same way the constant bending will cause a fatigue failure right at the nuts again where the bending is highest. Putting a block in as AKCamper has suggested will stop the bending and the bolts will be loaded in shear and tension as bolts are supposed to be used. The holes through the block should be a tight fit the keep the joint loaded in shear. On new 19's the frame is flat in this area which is how the flange at the top is right against the box and loaded in shear so it is a different (and structurally better) installation.

[gyuill]

Thanks all. I like the oak block idea and also I am considering a 3” x 1” section of rectangular tubing. I have a call in to Escape and will report back on their suggestions.
Graham

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Jim the recall did not apply to 21's.

Originally Posted by gyuill

Frame upgrades were done.

My bad. I somehow thought that Graham (gyuill) had a 21. I see now that it is a 19.

Please include some pics of your solution. This may help many others that have an earlier trailer with the front box. Some may want to do the mod proactively to prevent any future issues.

[gyuill]

Here is the response from Escape

“I have just received your voice mail, and the best solution is to simply change out the bolts with new bolts. There is no other solution that I would have for you.”

I had expected a little more from Escape and will look for some rectangular tubing.

Hello Graham,

I have just received your voice mail, and the best solution is to simply change out the bolts with new bolts. There is no other solution that I would have for you.“

I will look for some rectangular tubing snd will post photos of the repair.

Thanks everyone

Graham

[Mark B1]

Originally Posted by gyuill

Thanks all. I like the oak block idea and also I am considering a 3” x 1” section of rectangular tubing. I have a call in to Escape and will report back on their suggestions.
Graham

The rectangular tubing, and I assume you mean steel, is a good idea and quite simple. I may be easier to source 3" x 1" C channel than tubing and will work the same way, and you could bolt the channel to the box at the top, and to the angle at the bottom using shorted bolts. Most places you buy the tubing, or channel will cut it to the length you need.

Another solution, and how it should have been done in the first place, is take it to a welding shop. Have them remove the existing angle from the frame and put a new agle up against the box for the bolts to go through. The vertical flange of the angle will need to be long enough to weld to the frame. Then you can use much shorter bolts , just long enough to go through the box and the flange of the angle. This is similar to how the box is installed on new 19's.

[gyuill]

I used a 12 inch length of 3 inch “c” channel. The legs on the channel are 1.5 inches. 1 inch would have been too narrow to use the existing holes in the bottom angle iron support bracket (with the c channel against the frame/ angle iron).
Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Graham
Opelika Al

[Mark B1]

Originally Posted by gyuill

I used a 12 inch length of 3 inch “c” channel. The legs on the channel are 1.5 inches. 1 inch would have been too narrow to use the existing holes in the bottom angle iron support bracket (with the c channel against the frame/ angle iron).
Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Graham
Opelika Al

Much better

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by gyuill

I used a 12 inch length of 3 inch “c” channel. The legs on the channel are 1.5 inches. 1 inch would have been too narrow to use the existing holes in the bottom angle iron support bracket (with the c channel against the frame/ angle iron).
Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Graham
Opelika Al

Ron

[Chotch]

Originally Posted by gyuill

I used a 12 inch length of 3 inch “c” channel. The legs on the channel are 1.5 inches. 1 inch would have been too narrow to use the existing holes in the bottom angle iron support bracket (with the c channel against the frame/ angle iron).
Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Graham
Opelika Al

Nice! Don’t think you’ll have to revisit this problem. Think I would have used 4 shorter bolts instead of the 2 long ones. C channel to frame then box to C channel.

[gyuill]

Chotch. 4 shorter bolts would be easier and not require as exact placement of holes. But the inside surface of the leg is wedged shaped, not flat like angle iron. I am not sure if all c channel is made this way.

Graham
Opelika Al

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gyuill

4 shorter bolts would be easier and not require as exact placement of holes. But the inside surface of the leg is wedged shaped, not flat like angle iron. I am not sure if all c channel is made this way.

Good point. Rolled C-channel made from a solid bar typically has this issue, but C (or U) channel bent from a flat plate does not. There's even channel which is rolled like the usual stuff with non-parallel flanges (called UPN sections) but has parallel flanges (called UPE sections). Angle iron comes both ways as well.

[yardsale]

I'm gonna check our storage box. We have had two bolt failures on the scissor jacks. Replaced with stainless.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by yardsale

I'm gonna check our storage box. We have had two bolt failures on the scissor jacks. Replaced with stainless.

Stainless steel is typically used when rust-free application is desired, but stainless steel hardware does not have the tensile strength of carbon steel. Stainless steel hardware purchased from Lowe’s, Home Depot, Menard’s, or the local hardware store falls into this category. Grade 8 stainless steel can be obtained from companies such as American Racing Products but it is more expensive than that which is obtained from the previously mentioned retailers.