Zardoz, a simple way to incorporate the new 160 watt panel into the existing system is to connect it in parallel to the existing panel connections on your roof. The reason I suggest this is because you can buy a pair of parallel connectors cheap, plug your existing two cables from the existing panel into those and then plug a pair of short cables into them and run them down to one upper awning mount to tie them off as a connection point. Then bring a pair of 25' cables for connecting to your portable panel and just plug them into the cables and panel. All connections will then be the standard MC4 connectors which are high amperage, waterproof and are easily disconnected with a cheap tool...then you are running everything through the GoPower controller.
are high amperage, waterproof and are easily disconnected with a cheap tool...
Thanks for the heads up. I only have one pair of MC4 connectors but I'll be adding others. I didn't know about the disconnect tool. Likely saved me some frustration.
HFT, did you use the existing cable from the original single panel to the controller or replace it with heavier gauge?
I used the original 10 gauge cable. My entire system from the 3 panels to the MorningStar controller is all 10 gauge and the 4 parallel connectors and 4 additional cables are all MC4 type 10 gauge. Heavier gauge is not required.
I used the original 10 gauge cable. My entire system from the 3 panels to the MorningStar controller is all 10 gauge and the 4 parallel connectors and 4 additional cables are all MC4 type 10 gauge. Heavier gauge is not required.
Thanks, if I can fit another panel I'll be doing so this spring.
Bob,
I am using that Marinco marine connector or inlet for my portable panel. It has worked very well, an easy install and I have found it capable of handling up to 8 gauge wire. This may not be critical to some but I can be running 75 feet of cable to reach the sun with my portable panel, I wanted as little loss as possible.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
This is a typical NEMA 5 plug in a housing, which means it connects to ordinary household 15A 120V cords. That means matching connectors are readily available, but it also means there is a danger that someone connects 120V AC power to your low-voltage DC inlet, energizing a circuit at several times the voltage for which it is intended. While many members of forums like this dismiss this hazard, since they are confident they will never mix up connectors on their own trailer, I wouldn't allow the risk on my own trailer.
For significant current at 12V and/or 24V, I think the Marinco ConnectPro series looks good; they are normally used for trolling motors, are sealed by an O-ring when connected, and have a weather cover. Unfortunately, the covered socket is an outlet - not an inlet - so it doesn't suit the purpose of bringing solar panel power into the trailer. If anyone knows of a similar product with a panel-mount inlet, I would be interested.
This is a typical NEMA 5 plug in a housing, which means it connects to ordinary household 15A 120V cords. That means matching connectors are readily available, but it also means there is a danger that someone connects 120V AC power to your low-voltage DC inlet, energizing a circuit at several times the voltage for which it is intended. While many members of forums like this dismiss this hazard, since they are confident they will never mix up connectors on their own trailer, I wouldn't allow the risk on my own trailer.
For significant current at 12V and/or 24V, I think the Marinco ConnectPro series looks good; they are normally used for trolling motors, are sealed by an O-ring when connected, and have a weather cover. Unfortunately, the covered socket is an outlet - not an inlet - so it doesn't suit the purpose of bringing solar panel power into the trailer. If anyone knows of a similar product with a panel-mount inlet, I would be interested.
If you have a front box on the trailer why not just buy an MC4 cable, cut it in half and then wire it to the system inside through the bottom of the front storage box and lay the extra cable length inside. When you want solar you open the box, grab the two connector end and plug into your long MC4 cables...no side of trailer connection and no worries about leaks. Keep it all MC4, ...no personally made connections.
If you have a front box on the trailer why not just buy an MC4 cable, cut it in half and then wire it to the system inside through the bottom of the front storage box and lay the extra cable length inside. When you want solar you open the box, grab the two connector end and plug in to you long MC4 cables...no side of trailer connection and no worries about leaks. Keep it all MC4, ...no personally made connections.
This idea makes good sense to me, and can work with other connector styles if you are consistently using a different type and need to solve the inlet/outlet problem.
While many members of forums like this dismiss this hazard, since they are confident they will never mix up connectors on their own trailer, I wouldn't allow the risk on my own trailer.
Unfortunately, the covered socket is an outlet - not an inlet - so it doesn't suit the purpose of bringing solar panel power into the trailer. If anyone knows of a similar product with a panel-mount inlet, I would be interested.
Gotta agree, I could see a possible disaster scenario. You go and park in the driveway of relatives. During the meet and greet you casually mention that you'll need to plug in an extension cord. Shortly after your relative proudly says, I took care of the extension cord, you're all plugged in.
There is a solution for the Marinco situation, order an extra receptacle and use it as a cap to protect the live prongs but I'm thinking that keeping it all MC4 is the way to go.
Thanks HFT, already ordered from China Cheaper and free shipping. The annoying thing about living in Canada is seeing stuff in the US with a price that's OK but either they don't ship to Canada or the shipping doubles the price.
The annoying thing about living in Canada is seeing stuff in the US with a price that's OK but either they don't ship to Canada or the shipping doubles the price.
Ron
We all assume that if you live up there you gotta be rich!...
I got a small 30 watt portable panel as a gift. It uses Andersen Powerpole SB50 50 amp connectors. They are nice that they can only be plugged in one way, and positive and negative leads are in one connector. I got an extra set from Powerwerx.com.
I got a small 30 watt portable panel as a gift. It uses Andersen Powerpole SB50 50 amp connectors. They are nice that they can only be plugged in one way, and positive and negative leads are in one connector. I got an extra set from Powerwerx.com.
I have a shopping cart loaded with Andersen Powerpole connectors sitting at Powerwerx.com waiting for me to make some final decisions. The perfect solution if you're a do-it-yourselfer with DC projects in mind.
Just an FYI: They come in amperage sizes from 15A to 350A and all the colors of the rainbow.
This is a typical NEMA 5 plug in a housing, which means it connects to ordinary household 15A 120V cords. That means matching connectors are readily available, but it also means there is a danger that someone connects 120V AC power to your low-voltage DC inlet, energizing a circuit at several times the voltage for which it is intended. While many members of forums like this dismiss this hazard, since they are confident they will never mix up connectors on their own trailer, I wouldn't allow the risk on my own trailer.
For significant current at 12V and/or 24V, I think the Marinco ConnectPro series looks good; they are normally used for trolling motors, are sealed by an O-ring when connected, and have a weather cover. Unfortunately, the covered socket is an outlet - not an inlet - so it doesn't suit the purpose of bringing solar panel power into the trailer. If anyone knows of a similar product with a panel-mount inlet, I would be interested.
How about using just the ground and the neutral legs of the NEMA 5 connector for your 12 vdc leads? Any idea what would be the result if someone connected it to 115vac? I've been unable to find valid alternatives.
How about using just the ground and the neutral legs of the NEMA 5 connector for your 12 vdc leads? Any idea what would be the result if someone connected it to 115vac? I've been unable to find valid alternatives.
Wouldn't the 12 volt positive go to the same ground as the negative resulting in a short? The neutral leg is also a ground.
I have to agree with Brian - After seeing the result of my students plugging a theatrical lamp into the janitor's 240V receptacle (our lighting system used the same twist lock connectors as the floor buffer outlets in the theatre's hallways), I'm pretty much opposed to using a connector that "could" be misunderstood. There are just too many "helpers" out there that can make a unintended connection.
As to what I used, I went with a surface mount SAE connector from Solar Sellers (Item E). This matches the connectors that came with the portable panel. While I haven't had a "real world" trial of the bypassed controller with the portable panel, I did try it for a few minutes after I wired it to be sure it worked, and did get an increase when the portable panel was plugged in. Since the batteries were full, no real trial.
As to adding a GoPower 160 watt panel to an existing 95 watt panel system, according to GoPower, it can't be done. The reason is the 95 watt panel has the frame connected to the positive output, while the 160 watt panel has the frame connected to the negative. Since code requires the grounding of the frames, this would cause a problem. Of course, since we have fiberglass trailers, we could get away with not connecting the frames...
I'm going to wait until Spring to decide if I want to add another roof mounted panel (right now the roof is under a cover & far too much snow). I have to make some templates of the different size panels, & see if there is room for one more on my 17. I still plan to carry the portable panel, but wouldn't mind a bit more power when traveling & when I don't want to dig out the portable panel.
Fyi - i got an answer from go power about connecting the portable panel direct to the battery at the same time as ur roof system. The 2 systems will work together as long as the roof system controller has a higher amp rating than the portable system. He did not elaborate as to why.
ken
__________________
ESCAPE #3, 19FT ON ORDER
TV - NOT YET, THINKING RIDGELINE OR F150
KEN AND DIANA, CALGARY
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' pulled with 2014 Silverado Crewcab
Posts: 854
Special purpose plug for solar...
I see an SAE Solar Plug referenced on the Go power website. They have a standard pigtail made to go with their portable panels. Would be just the ticket for a direct connect to the onboard Go power controller.
Cheaper and free shipping. The annoying thing about living in Canada is seeing stuff in the US with a price that's OK but either they don't ship to Canada or the shipping doubles the price.
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