1] Atwood propane Heater is wired direct to battery with fuse able link.
2] Only have 2 - 12v+ outlets on the power convertor[small camper]
one is wired to cigarette lighter outlet and the other is wired to the
lights.
3] everything works as it should.
My question is how can I wire all the 12v items to the digital current voltage, power energy meter so I can monitor the battery and amp. draw?
You normally tie all the negative leads to one side of a shunt, then the battery connects to the other end using suitable wire to handle the complete load. The meter reads across the 2 sides of the shunt.
On edit
Look at the 3rd image on the web page you provided.
You normally tie all the negative leads to one side of a shunt, then the battery connects to the other end using suitable wire to handle the complete load. The meter reads across the 2 sides of the shunt.
On edit
Look at the 3rd image on the web page you provided.
Is this the image you are referring to?
Load #1 would be my heater
Load #2 would be my cigarette lighter
Load #3 would be my lights
tie all the grounds to the shunt.
I am planning on using the cigarette lighter plug for my 80Watt power inverter that will run my nebulizer for 10min. four times a day.
We do not have power in the mountains where we camp.
I also have a very large deep cycle battery.
Short answer the unit you linked to will do the jobs long as your max load is less than 100 amps total but I recommend you hook it up as per the instructions you get. You will get confused by the answers you get online as there are several ways to do it. Normally you disconnect one side of your battery and the shunt gets hooked up in Series with that side of battery.
Is this the image you are referring to?
Load #1 would be my heater
Load #2 would be my cigarette lighter
Load #3 would be my lights
tie all the grounds to the shunt.
I assume in your hand sketch in post #1 where you say “Power Inv.” you mean converter (120V AC to 12V DC), not inverter. It would be cleaner if all your loads were wired out of the converter fuse panel, but it can still be wired as padlin describes. The shunt just needs to be between the battery negative and ALL your loads to be accurate. The red power line shown is only to power the meter. It doesn’t matter where in the positive side of the circuit this power comes from. I wired a similar meter in with an integral shunt (Doc Wattson) and the wiring is equivalent. It is inline on the negative to the battery with all loads on the other side. Note that you probably need a switch on the power line to the meter if you want to reset cumulative usage (battery discharge) for each trip. Looking closer at the meter you posted I don’t see amp-hrs which may be more intuitive but you could use watt-hours as well I suppose. The meter I used doesn’t appear available any longer but there are others out there like PowerWerx. They would work but limit out at 65 amp-hrs where my version went up to 6,554. (With a 230 Ah battery bank I wanted to be able to use more than 65 Ah before resetting). Hope this helps.
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