Dinette Floor Not Level?

[gmchamplin]

Has anyone else noticed that their dinette floor is not level with the rest of the trailer?

In our 5.0TA, I have had to shim the base of my Springfield pedestal about 1/4 inch on the rear side, just to get the table surface close to level when the rest of the trailer is level.

[Jim Bennett]

I do not have that issue myself. Any chance it has to do with your pedestal?

[gmchamplin]

I don't think so. I'm checking the level of the dinette floor vs the main floor with a torpedo level, and they are significantly different.

The strange thing is that I didn't notice a problem until I removed and replaced the pedestal in order to install a Dicor slider...

I'm still investigating, but I wondered if anyone else had seen a similar issue.

[padlin]

I noticed the table was off but shimmed the table top as opposed to the pedestal. Never did check the floor by the table for level although it wouldn't surprise me. Have you even compared the trailers frame to the floor by the door or the counter top? All 3 differ from one another.

[gmchamplin]

Level on main floor.

[gmchamplin]

Level on dinette floor.
Up toward the rear of the trailer.

[gmchamplin]

Originally Posted by padlin

Have you even compared the trailers frame to the floor by the door or the counter top? All 3 differ from one another.

I was using the main floor as my reference, but I see that it's more complicated than that.

The things that I care about are:
- My head is not lower than my feet when I sleep.
- The refrigerator works.
- Pencils don't roll off the table.

[Eggscape]

My floor varies as well. The filler person of the day can put a little extra on the plywood seams which makes little hills for your level to ride on if you don’t know where they are.

Here is a picture from their production video showing what I am talking about.

[Radar1]

Haven't checked our Escape for different levels yet but I remember our Scamp would have different versions of level depending how much you used the "stabilizers" and/or front crank. Generally, the middle would be different than the front and rear due to frame flex.

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by Radar1

Haven't checked our Escape for different levels yet but I remember our Scamp would have different versions of level depending how much you used the "stabilizers" and/or front crank. Generally, the middle would be different than the front and rear due to frame flex.

That’s not good

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by gmchamplin

The strange thing is that I didn't notice a problem until I removed and replaced the pedestal in order to install a Dicor .

Howdja score a Dicor?

[sherminator]

My dinette table is definitely lower at the rear. I haven't really investigated it yet, but my initial suspicion is that it is largely due to the slider. There is some play there, for sure. If there is shimming to be done, I figure to do it between the Springfield's top plate and the slider.

[gmchamplin]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Howdja score a Dicor?

I was fortunate to get it from Dave Murphy at the 2019 Pineknot rally.

[steve dunham]

I took my 4ft & 6ft mahogany levels and set my trailer floor as close to level as I could get
If I remember correctly I found only 1 or 2 things in the whole trailer that were actually square , level or plumb with the trailer floor . I can’t change / fix it , so I am not going to worry about it
Our dinning table wobbles so badly that it can be in or out of level in the blink of an eye
I suspect the majority of the issue is in the factory table slide mechanism .
One of the many Escape projects on my Spring to do list

[Shiny]

This issue (3 contributors) has risen to the top of my fix-it list. Our table (and floor) is far from level, the glide is very loose, and it is easy to overtighten the clamp which I think means it is clamping directly against plywood.

1) The pedestal is solidly mounted so I hope to shim at the top. How did you do this?

2) Has anyone replaced the glide to reduce the slop? If so, what did you use?

3) What have you done to the clamp?

Thanks,

Mike

[Shearwater]

We just finished shimming the table in our 5.0. I used two 1/4" strips of Aspen, sandwiched together between the low side of the top plate and the table. I secured these with 1/2" longer screws. The table is almost perfectly level now, big improvement.

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by Shearwater

We just finished shimming the table in our 5.0. I used two 1/4" strips of Aspen, sandwiched together between the low side of the top plate and the table. I secured these with 1/2" longer screws. The table is almost perfectly level now, big improvement.

Thank you. I just pulled the top off and understand your solution. I think ours will take more than 1/4" but that's TBD. Longer screws will require a trip to Home Depot!

I see why the glides are sloppy - they are extruded polymer with a lot of clearance but function well for what they are. I'll compare cost of improving vs perceived benefit.

I do find the wooden "sub-base" for the table top is 1/2 or 9/16 ? plywood and seems to flex so I may reinforce with some aluminum or channel to stiffen it up.

Mike

[Shiny]

Shearwater - I followed your lead and used wooden shims between the sub-base and the pedestal top. It took about 3/8" to correct!



I looked for track slides with less slop but so far they all seem quite expensive. If anyone else found an option in the price range of a drawer slide, please share.

Mike

[gbaglo]

You levelled your driveway, like the floor at ETI did you?

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

You levelled your driveway, like the floor at ETI did you?

This reference escapes me!