Dometic HFH 2000 digital replacement?

[WanderBred]

It seems the week we've owed the 5er, that it works fine, but what can I use to replace it, it is only for the heater.

We have the Coleman air conditioner and that's totally different.

[rubicon327]

Bruce: You just need a simple, non-programmable thermostat like these...
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Lux-PSD0...nly-Thermostat
https://www.supplyhouse.com/ICM-Cont...GUaAhEqEALw_wc

Very worthwhile upgrade. I’m surprised that Escape installs those mechanical thermostats when there are so many better options.

[Oldtimer]

Now if there was a simple inexpensive replacement one for the “ lord help if I try to change the temp setting “ on the domestic on you get if it controls the heat and ac. It’s a peace of garbage.

David

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Bruce: You just need a simple, non-programmable thermostat like these...
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Lux-PSD0...nly-Thermostat
https://www.supplyhouse.com/ICM-Cont...GUaAhEqEALw_wc

Very worthwhile upgrade. I’m surprised that Escape installs those mechanical thermostats when there are so many better options.

Trouble is those are heat only. Is there a combo heat/AC replacement?

Enjoy,

Perry

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Trouble is those are heat only. Is there a combo heat/AC replacement?

Enjoy,

Perry

Yes, but you are not going to like the price: Hutch Mountain Easy Touch Thermostat

By the way, if you are looking for a heat only replacement, be sure it is either mechanical or, if digital, uses a battery. There is no 24V supply from the Dometic furnace.

[Centex]

Thanks for asking the question, Bruce, I have no AC, only the furnace from ETI with the mechanical thermostat and haven't yet messed with it. This unit linked by Dave looks like an attractive better alternative

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Lux-PSD0...nly-Thermostat

I understand the need for battery power as mentioned by Jon, but dislike having to keep up with them, the linked unit apparently uses 2xAA in series = 3VDC. If that's the case is there any reason that something like this could not be substituted for those batteries (noting it claims an input range of 8-24V so might be OK with a lithium system's voltage ranges)?

12V to 3V 3A Step-Down Waterproof Miniature DC-DC Converter Power Supply Module

Or is there another similarly inexpensive 'battery substitute' that could be used?

Thankful again for the expertise on this forum!

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Centex

Thanks for asking the question, Bruce, I have no AC, only the furnace from ETI with the mechanical thermostat and haven't yet messed with it. This unit linked by Dave looks like an attractive better alternative

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Lux-PSD0...nly-Thermostat

I understand the need for battery power as mentioned by Jon, but dislike having to keep up with them, the linked unit apparently uses 2xAA in series = 3VDC. If that's the case is there any reason that something like this could not be substituted for those batteries (noting it claims an input range of 8-24V so might be OK with a lithium system's voltage ranges)?

12V to 3V 3A Step-Down Waterproof Miniature DC-DC Converter Power Supply Module

Or is there another similarly inexpensive 'battery substitute' that could be used?

Thankful again for the expertise on this forum!

I don't see any reason it wouldn't work, although you would have to modify the battery door to get the wires in. I use a similar thermostat at home & the batteries last 2-3 years (I use lithium AAs). It might not be worth the trouble of powering it from the trailer battery.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Trouble is those are heat only. Is there a combo heat/AC replacement?

Enjoy,

Perry

Perry: The OP was looking for a heat only replacement for the mechanical thermostat. If you are looking for heating/cooling integrated the Hutch Mountain unit Jon posted is likely your best (only?) bet to replace the Dometic.

[gbaglo]

I replaced the mechanical thermostat with a digital. It runs on a couple AAs, I think ( it's been so long since I replaced the batteries. Simple to install.

[Centex]

My trailer has no ETI installed air conditioner, only the furnace. Taking a tip from Dave's post above, my LuxPro Heating Only PSD010B battery powered thermostat will arrive tomorrow.

It's only two wires, both are blue in my 5.0, (which corresponds to the Dometic DFSAD12 wiring diagram showing both thermostat wires to be blue). Please see the attached - I've randomly labeled my wires "1" and "2" in the pic of my OE Dometic thermostat.

Question: Which of the wires "1" and "2" should go to the LuxPro terminals "W1" and "RH" respectively, or does it not matter?

Thanks in advance for guidance!

EDIT - Nevermind, I figured it out - wire "2" meters as +13.xx volts, so it goes to "RH"; wire "1" is common (-) so it goes to "W1".

[JabberwockJazzy]

Originally Posted by Centex

My trailer has no ETI installed air conditioner, only the furnace. Taking a tip from Dave's post above, my LuxPro Heating Only PSD010B battery powered thermostat will arrive tomorrow.

It's only two wires, both are blue in my 5.0, (which corresponds to the Dometic DFSAD12 wiring diagram showing both thermostat wires to be blue). Please see the attached - I've randomly labeled my wires "1" and "2" in the pic of my OE Dometic thermostat.

Question: Which of the wires "1" and "2" should go to the LuxPro terminals "W1" and "RH" respectively, or does it not matter?

Thanks in advance for guidance!

EDIT - Nevermind, I figured it out - wire "2" meters as +13.xx volts, so it goes to "RH"; wire "1" is common (-) so it goes to "W1".

What does one have to do to remove power to the original mechanical thermostat prior to taking it out and installing the new thermostat? Is there a fuse that should be removed or just flip the Battery Disconnect switch to be sure?

[Centex]

Originally Posted by JabberwockJazzy

What does one have to do to remove power to the original mechanical thermostat prior to taking it out and installing the new thermostat? Is there a fuse that should be removed or just flip the Battery Disconnect switch to be sure?

I only have vague recall of that detail of my installation 2 years ago.

My vague recall is not worrying about killing the power, just taping over and marking each bare wire-end as I removed 'em one at a time, thereby ensuring the bare ends didn't touch each other during the swap (marking that tape "W1" and "RH" respectively to keep 'em sorted since they are the same color on mine).

Flipping the battery disconnect should kill the power if concerned about it.