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Old 06-14-2020, 06:16 PM   #1
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Dometic RM2510 trips GFCI

Preparing my 17B for the kids to take camping. I've found that switching the Dometic RM2510 triggers GFCI in the house. I will admit that the trailer is plugged in via two long extension cords, but I've done that for 12 years without issue.

Tried switching to propane ( ran the stove top first ), but indicator light is not flashing, leading me to think the problem is with the switch for Gas/Off/Electric. Switched to Elect twice and tripped GFCI twice.
I reset and the electric heater in the trailer runs and does not trip the GFCI.
I'd appreciate any suggestions that don't require electrical expertise.
Thank you.
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Old 06-14-2020, 10:11 PM   #2
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Glenn: Wondering if it is possible for the 120V AC electric element to fail hot to ground. That is what happened on our hot water heater. GFCI the trailer was plugged into would trip whenever any large load in the trailer was ran. But since you are saying electric heater runs fine then maybe that’s not it.

If you want to try on gas again make sure 12V fuse in WFCO power center is good. We’ve had that blow and it takes out the igniter.

I have never done it but I have read that the RM2510 can be manually lit with two people. I assume that means someone inside holding the safety button in while someone is outside lighting the burner with a BBQ lighter. If you do light it this way I would blow the flame out and make sure it relights. If not the reignitor isn’t working and fridge will not relight if burner is blown out while driving, etc.
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Old 06-14-2020, 10:30 PM   #3
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Thanks. I'll check that fuse tomorrow and maybe try lighting fridge manually.
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Old 06-15-2020, 08:30 AM   #4
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I have never done it but I have read that the RM2510 can be manually lit with two people. I assume that means someone inside holding the safety button in while someone is outside lighting the burner with a BBQ lighter. If you do light it this way I would blow the flame out and make sure it relights. If not the reignitor isn’t working and fridge will not relight if burner is blown out while driving, etc.
I should note that this only applies to refrigerators like the RM2510 that are considered "manual" refrigerators. 12V is only needed for ignition. The refrigerator can operate without any power source. That is not the case for any of the other Dometic fridges that Escape has used to the best of my knowledge. Certainly not any of the newer fridges with automatic mode changeover requiring electronic control boards.
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Old 06-15-2020, 08:39 AM   #5
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I would disconnect the wires going to the 120 VAC refrigerator heating element , tape off the leads and plug the trailer back into the GFCI circuit and see if the GFCI trips
The heating element may have failed
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Old 06-15-2020, 08:45 AM   #6
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I would disconnect the wires going to the 120 VAC refrigerator heating element , tape off the leads and plug the trailer back into the GFCI circuit and see if the GFCI trips
The heating element may have failed
That is exactly how I troubleshot the HWH. Disconnected the electric heating element and the GFCI no longer tripped.
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Old 06-15-2020, 09:26 AM   #7
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You are most likely going to need to replace the 120V heater element. A fault to the casing of the heater on either the hot or neutral side will cause a GFCI to trip. While a hot to ground fault will trip the circuit breaker, a neutral to ground fault will not.

One way to insure it is the refrigerator is to use an extension cord to plug it in directly to a GFCI receptacle. If it still trips, it is likely the element is bad. A final check would require a multimeter. Disconnect both wires to the heater element, and measure the resistance between the case & either lead. Anything other than infinite means a bad element. 185 watt heater element, Dometic # 3850644505.
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Old 06-15-2020, 10:54 AM   #8
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and use your 30 amp power cord not an 2 extension low amp cords that may be causing the short.
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Old 06-15-2020, 11:32 AM   #9
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and use your 30 amp power cord not an 2 extension low amp cords that may be causing the short.

The two extension cords are heavy duty and have been working for 12 years. 30 amp power cord is plugged into the extensions. 1500 watt heater does not trip GFCI.
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Old 06-15-2020, 01:47 PM   #10
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I checked the 20 amp fuse for the fridge and it appears good ( I'll replace anyway, if I have one ).
Response from service shop follows. I've read other posts complaining about ETI response lately. This response might calm you down.


We are currently booking into the third week of July , I can put you on a cancallation list but I do not have any space sooner . We are currently not offering service calls .
I have called all of my suppliers for the heating element that you referenced – no one stocks it and it would need to be a special order from Dometic .
We are currently unable to get through to them on the phone for special orders and have been waiting for parts from them for months due to Covid -19 and lockdowns in Indiana where their main hub is located .
If you want to book an appointment please feel free to call anytime Monday to Friday 830am-5pm.
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Old 06-15-2020, 02:31 PM   #11
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The ebay site I linked to in the earlier post says they have 6 of them in stock...
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Old 06-15-2020, 02:43 PM   #12
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The ebay site I linked to in the earlier post says they have 6 of them in stock...

As an "authorized service centre" I suspect they must get parts from Dometic or authorized parts suppliers.
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Old 06-15-2020, 02:48 PM   #13
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I've been waiting on a replacement awning end piece that was a special order to Dometic for 6 weeks. It took 30 minutes on hold for the service person to get through on the phone to place the order that was expected to arrive in 2 weeks...
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Old 06-15-2020, 03:47 PM   #14
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and use your 30 amp power cord not an 2 extension low amp cords that may be causing the short.
The conductors in the power cord could be hair-thin, and it would make no difference to the existence of a ground fault, which is a conductive path to ground. Any extra plug-in connection is a possible source of a ground fault, so those could be examined for damage or contamination. A failure in the refrigerator's 120 V AC element, as already described, seems more likely.
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