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Old 05-19-2018, 03:57 PM   #1
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Door alignment problem

The door on my 2017 17b has started to stick - the lock assembly scraping on the strike. I was just going to take a hammer and drift pin and push the strike in a little so it doesnt scrape any more, but thought I would check to see if anyone else has encountered this problem. Is there a better way to adjust?
Maybe its a symptom of something more serious? (frame damage etc.)
Thoughts?
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Old 05-19-2018, 06:24 PM   #2
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Am having a similar issue w screen door catching. Discussed w eti after sending pics & tightening all screws. Said it will take adjustment by rv tech. Waiting to hear if this is covered by warranty.
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Old 05-19-2018, 06:55 PM   #3
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Try slackening off the hinge screws and lifting the door. Then tighten the screws. If the screws don't tighten they may be stripped. They go into wood backing and other folks have had to put toothpick sized pieces and glue in the holes to make the screws hold the door firmly.

Ron
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Old 05-19-2018, 07:37 PM   #4
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Are 2017 17'ers new gen door or old?
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Old 05-19-2018, 09:02 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by DSiepierski View Post
The door on my 2017 17b has started to stick - the lock assembly scraping on the strike. I was just going to take a hammer and drift pin and push the strike in a little so it doesnt scrape any more, but thought I would check to see if anyone else has encountered this problem. Is there a better way to adjust?
Maybe its a symptom of something more serious? (frame damage etc.)
Thoughts?
Thanks
Dennis
I'm not sure which door the 17 uses. If it's the flat door with the screen door as a part of it the striker plate was installed backwards in ours. It made the door difficult to close and almost impossible to open. It should be installed with the thin part to the rear. That probably is not your problem but figured I'd mention it just in case.
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Old 05-19-2018, 09:44 PM   #6
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I'm not sure which door the 17 uses. If it's the flat door with the screen door as a part of it the striker plate was installed backwards in ours. It made the door difficult to close and almost impossible to open. It should be installed with the thin part to the rear. That probably is not your problem but figured I'd mention it just in case.
I think all the 2nd gen trailers use the same flat door with integrated screen. Here’s a picture of a 17 from the ETI website.
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:52 AM   #7
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Stabilizer tightness affect door operation?

I find that sometimes our door seems to stick or not latch easily. This seems to happen when we are camping, not when connected to the truck. I was wondering if it may be caused by the frame flexing slightly if the stabilizers are not all cranked up to the same tightness? Has anyone found something similar?
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Old 05-20-2018, 11:01 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by richardr View Post
I find that sometimes our door seems to stick or not latch easily. This seems to happen when we are camping, not when connected to the truck. I was wondering if it may be caused by the frame flexing slightly if the stabilizers are not all cranked up to the same tightness? Has anyone found something similar?
Yes, My Lance trailer would have door issues if not properly cranked. Have not had it with the Escape, but I'm sure it is possible.
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Old 07-19-2018, 11:58 AM   #9
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Just ran into this discussion and I noticed our 2018 19 ft has this sticking issue with the lock assembly scraping on the strike as stated above. Seems to be worse in hot weather and hardly noticeable in cool weather. In fact, when we were in Lawrence Kansas it was very hot and we had to leave our KOA site and find a hotel since we could not even open the door. I think this might be caused by heat expansion but I'm not sure how to resolve this. Have not tried experimenting with the stabilizing jacks. Any opinions are welcome.
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Old 07-19-2018, 12:28 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by tannerls View Post
Just ran into this discussion and I noticed our 2018 19 ft has this sticking issue with the lock assembly scraping on the strike as stated above. Seems to be worse in hot weather and hardly noticeable in cool weather. In fact, when we were in Lawrence Kansas it was very hot and we had to leave our KOA site and find a hotel since we could not even open the door. I think this might be caused by heat expansion but I'm not sure how to resolve this. Have not tried experimenting with the stabilizing jacks. Any opinions are welcome.



Looking in the door frame at the striker is the wider part to the outside as it is supposed to be? Ours had the narrow part out and after a few miles when it wore a groove in the latch it made it real hard to open. We were pushing in on the door as we pulled the handle as recommended. I was the only one who could open it after we stopped traveling, Karen could not do it. Oddly after the initial door opening as long as the trailer did not go on the highway the door was easy to open.
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Old 07-19-2018, 12:52 PM   #11
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JB Weld

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Try slackening off the hinge screws and lifting the door. Then tighten the screws. If the screws don't tighten they may be stripped. They go into wood backing and other folks have had to put toothpick sized pieces and glue in the holes to make the screws hold the door firmly.

Ron
Hi Ron
On stripped out screws in wood I’ve been using an epoxy product by JB Weld. It’s a wood putty type product that looks like a soft tootsie roll in the tube. Cut off what you need, knead it to a uniform color and stuff it in the hole. Once it sets up you can drill it and it really holds screws. Walmart and other fine establishments, about 5 bucks. Toothpicks work too, used them for years but gotta try new stuff when I see it.
Iowa Dave
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Old 07-19-2018, 01:21 PM   #12
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Hi Ron
On stripped out screws in wood I’ve been using an epoxy product by JB Weld. It’s a wood putty type product that looks like a soft tootsie roll in the tube. Cut off what you need, knead it to a uniform color and stuff it in the hole. Once it sets up you can drill it and it really holds screws. Walmart and other fine establishments, about 5 bucks. Toothpicks work too, used them for years but gotta try new stuff when I see it.
Iowa Dave
Yup, toothpicks etc. work but JB weld works also. Folks use it for all sorts of problem fixes. It's about as handy as duct tape. Says a guy, who when asked if he has any duct tape, answers "What color?"

Ron
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:19 PM   #13
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Had door screen n stick issue as well. Took it to rv place they replaced screws & now opens smoothly. All under warranty.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:38 PM   #14
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I have a door stick issue also on my 2017 19'. The worst of it was resolved when I replaced the round head screw at the bottom with a flat head screw. It was causing an indent in the door frame where it was rubbing. The door still sticks, but not as bad. When you look at the door when it closes, the decal on the door actually flexes to the point that it bubbles off the door when the door is open. Not sure what the issue is, but I am working with Reace to figure it out.
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Old 08-15-2018, 01:22 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by JohnFromABQ View Post
I have a door stick issue also on my 2017 19'. The worst of it was resolved when I replaced the round head screw at the bottom with a flat head screw. It was causing an indent in the door frame where it was rubbing. The door still sticks, but not as bad. When you look at the door when it closes, the decal on the door actually flexes to the point that it bubbles off the door when the door is open. Not sure what the issue is, but I am working with Reace to figure it out.
Hi JohnFromABQ:
I noticed the same problem regarding the round head screw at the bottom of the door in our Escape 19. In fact it has worn away the paint and caused a grove. I will also replace it with a flat head screw although the striker plate will rub. Did you get a resolution from Reace on this issue?
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Old 08-15-2018, 01:48 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by tannerls View Post
Hi JohnFromABQ:
I noticed the same problem regarding the round head screw at the bottom of the door in our Escape 19. In fact it has worn away the paint and caused a grove. I will also replace it with a flat head screw although the striker plate will rub. Did you get a resolution from Reace on this issue?
Hey Tannerls,

Yes, I did talk to Reace and he said they have started to flatten out the switch plates because of this issue. He was going to send me some other stuff, so I asked if he could send me out a flattened switch plate also.

John
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:58 PM   #17
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Hey Tannerls,

Yes, I did talk to Reace and he said they have started to flatten out the switch plates because of this issue. He was going to send me some other stuff, so I asked if he could send me out a flattened switch plate also.

John
I sure appreciate this information. As you know this issue can be frustrating. I will call Escape tomorrow and try to arrange for a replacement plate and flat head screw for the bottom of the door. Otherwise my Wife and I have really enjoyed the trailer.
Thanks again JohnFromABQ
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Old 08-14-2019, 02:59 PM   #18
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I sure appreciate this information. As you know this issue can be frustrating. I will call Escape tomorrow and try to arrange for a replacement plate and flat head screw for the bottom of the door. Otherwise my Wife and I have really enjoyed the trailer.
Thanks again JohnFromABQ
I have a 2018 19 foot and have the same entry door issue, Door sticking and bottom screw rubbing made a groove in the frame. I contacted Escape and they stated door needs adjustment. Bring it in to them or they gave me the contact info for the door manufacturer to see if they have a dealer closer to me to arrange a warrantee adjustment.
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:14 PM   #19
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I should have posted an update sooner, so sorry about that and thanks to HappyRV for responding to this thread. After replacing the jam and screw, things did continue to get worse for me. After trying several more suggestions from Reace, he finally decided to just replace the door. We have a repair shop here in Albuquerque, Tom's RV, that has been very good to work with. They replaced the door, but when they took out the old one, they said that there was nothing wrong with the door, it was just a bad installation. I believe that Tom called Escape, not sure if he talked directly with Reace or someone else, but he sent pictures and explained what the issue really was. So long story short, the adjustment they are suggesting is probably exactly what you need.
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