Door hard to operate

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I don't get the 2x4 part

Hi: Bobbie54... Sometimes you just have to use one to get your point across!!!
The astronauts used a hammer on a TV camera on the moon... didn't they? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I don't get the 2x4 part

This discussion would be more useful if posters would indicate what type of door they have on their trailer as well as what they did.

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

When we received our 5.0 at Sumas the first night we had to press the door firmly from the outside or pull from the inside to close the door. First thing I did was adjust the striker plate and that didn't help. I removed the striker plate and the door closed properly.

Finally got in touch with Rease and he said on some Escapes the door was bowed in at the top and bottom slightly. He advised me to put a 2x4 at the top and bottom of the door and push the middle in to correct the situation.

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I don't get the 2x4 part

I believe what Perryb67 is saying is that his door was not straight (it had a bow in it top to bottom) . He used a 2X4 straighten the door.

Here is a picture of my door with the 2X4, it is hard to see, but my door is not convex or concave (isn't bowed). You can check your door with a 2X4 the way my picture shows, if it is not bowed I'd say you need to adjust the striker out a little more.

You've said the latch works fine when you just push it in. I guess another thing could be that the latch is binding under the pressure of hitting the striker. You should be able to see if the latch has any play in it causing it to bind.

I checked my door today and it opens and closes easily. I do not need to hold the latch open when closing the door as the door closes very easy. Originally my striker plate was just adjusted a tad too tight.

[Bobbie54]

It does seem to be the strike plate. The lower screw won't let it get completely forward but I've adjusted enough to make it open and close easily.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

It does seem to be the strike plate. The lower screw won't let it get completely forward but I've adjusted enough to make it open and close easily.

I don't know about this type of door but many latch/striker combinations are adjustable on both sides....ie you may be able to adjust the parts on the door too.

A little tip I learned on This Old House....rub the graphite from a soft pencil on the striker and operate the door...it will leave some graphite on the latch piece(door part) so you can see where it is hitting on the striker (door jamb). Now you know which way to adjust and how much.

[davidmurphy02]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

It does seem to be the strike plate. The lower screw won't let it get completely forward but I've adjusted enough to make it open and close easily.

If the striker plate is really close but doesn't have quite as much lateral adjustment as you need you could probably extend the openings for the screws at the top and bottom just a bit with a Dremel or similar small rotary tool.

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

If the striker plate is really close but doesn't have quite as much lateral adjustment as you need you could probably extend the openings for the screws at the top and bottom just a bit with a Dremel or similar small rotary tool.

Yes- when I get home. Camping now!

[CharlesPou]

I suggest you make sure all the door latch fasteners are tight. my door is always a little hard to open, so I push on the door to release pressure on the bolt, and then pull on the latch and door opens easily. it closes nice, but you have to close it like you mean it. Wife has a lot of trouble opening and closing door, so it's definitely not the best. I have lubed it with graphite, doesn't seen to help, still messing with it from time to time trying to figure out why it's binding.

after 2 years on the new trailer, I noticed I was missing one of the strike plate screws. I was lucky, hardware store was across the street where I was parked, Walsenburg CO. I noticed pretty much all the fasteners associated with the door latch were loose. after tightening everything up, seemed to work a lot better, but still binding some. cheers

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

Wife has a lot of trouble opening and closing door, so it's definitely not the best.

Colleen also had a hard time with the door, me, like you, not so much. Adjusting the striker worked wonders, opens and closes with ease now.

[Bobbie54]

Well, 3 nights camping, it was working well, now doesn't latch unless I push or pull in on it and do the latch at the same time. So went from hard to do to working to a two-handed operation. I'll have to fiddle with it some more now that I'm home.

[arniesea]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

When we received our 5.0 at Sumas the first night we had to press the door firmly from the outside or pull from the inside to close the door. First thing I did was adjust the striker plate and that didn't help. I removed the striker plate and the door closed properly.

Finally got in touch with Rease and he said on some Escapes the door was bowed in at the top and bottom slightly. He advised me to put a 2x4 at the top and bottom of the door and push the middle in to correct the situation.

Enjoy,

Perry

My door was also slightly bowed on my new 5.0. It did not impact latching with the stock latch, but when I replaced it with the RV keyless latch, the clearance was tighter and we had to slam the door to get it to latch. When i put a straight edge along the door, it was obvious that the top and bottom were tighter int he frame then middle where the latch is located. I ended up making a jig out of a 2 x 6 and with clamps was able to straighten the door. It works fine now. see picture.

[akmacs]

The door on our 5.0 needs far more force to open/close when the door is in direct sun. Once it cools off it opens and closes with a normal amount of force. We haven't figured out a solution to that issue but I'll have to check if the door is warped next spring.

[George Johnson]

Informative and fun to be following this thread,

As the owner of a first generation Escape 19 with curved sidewalls and a curved door to match, I'm curious about the construction of the new generation doors. My door is entirely fiberglass, and would never tolerate being bent into shape as described without simply breaking. Are the new doors fiberglass panels on a metal frame in order to allow them to be bent to allow a better fit in the door frame? If so, it seems to me that it is a pretty serious quality control problem at the factory that the door hasn't been properly adjusted before being sent out to the customer.

I've yet to see a new generation Escape close up, so I have no idea...

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by George Johnson

Informative and fun to be following this thread,

As the owner of a first generation Escape 19 with curved sidewalls and a curved door to match, I'm curious about the construction of the new generation doors. My door is entirely fiberglass, and would never tolerate being bent into shape as described without simply breaking. Are the new doors fiberglass panels on a metal frame in order to allow them to be bent to allow a better fit in the door frame? If so, it seems to me that it is a pretty serious quality control problem at the factory that the door hasn't been properly adjusted before being sent out to the customer.

I've yet to see a new generation Escape close up, so I have no idea...

I haven't looked that close17b.ly so someone else can address construction, but if I ever get to visit my grandkids in Humboldt, you can come see the new door on my

[arniesea]

Originally Posted by George Johnson

Informative and fun to be following this thread,

As the owner of a first generation Escape 19 with curved sidewalls and a curved door to match, I'm curious about the construction of the new generation doors. My door is entirely fiberglass, and would never tolerate being bent into shape as described without simply breaking. Are the new doors fiberglass panels on a metal frame in order to allow them to be bent to allow a better fit in the door frame? If so, it seems to me that it is a pretty serious quality control problem at the factory that the door hasn't been properly adjusted before being sent out to the customer.

I've yet to see a new generation Escape close up, so I have no idea...

Yes, they are a metal frame with fiberglass panels inside and out. Foam core. As I mentioned in my post, it worked fine when the trailer was brand new. 6 months later, there was a slight curve to it. Not sure why.

My first trailer was a 2013 E19’ with the curved door. Those were individually fitted to each trailer as there are slight variations between units. And you are correct, once fitted, the shape and construction resulted in a more stable door.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by George Johnson

Informative and fun to be following this thread,

As the owner of a first generation Escape 19 with curved sidewalls and a curved door to match, I'm curious about the construction of the new generation doors. My door is entirely fiberglass, and would never tolerate being bent into shape as described without simply breaking. Are the new doors fiberglass panels on a metal frame in order to allow them to be bent to allow a better fit in the door frame? If so, it seems to me that it is a pretty serious quality control problem at the factory that the door hasn't been properly adjusted before being sent out to the customer.

I've yet to see a new generation Escape close up, so I have no idea...

The newer doors are from a manufacturer of standard RV doors. Most likely an aluminum extrusion filled with foam. They are nothing like the original fiberglass doors. I’m sure Escape is adjusting the doors when first installed. It’s possible that travel, weather, etc. are causing an issue or the door is not remaining perfectly flat over time. I’ll bet for every one we hear about though there are plenty working perfectly.

[Bobbie54]

Escapes are all young trailers but one downside of those curved doors is that over time (think 20-30 years) they can warp slightly and not fit right. And they are not easily replaceable. So there are some real advantages to the flat door even if it isn't quite as nice. And I did like the old screen.

[oldwave]

I have noticed that the door ease of opening and closing are directly related to the state of level of the trailer. Also my strike plate screws loosened somewhat over time. I do keep spray silicone and graphite for the frame and lock respectively. There was some discussion about adjusting the strike plate. 2017 21

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by oldwave

I have noticed that the door ease of opening and closing are directly related to the state of level of the trailer. Also my strike plate screws loosened somewhat over time. I do keep spray silicone and graphite for the frame and lock respectively. There was some discussion about adjusting the strike plate. 2017 21

I need to mess around more with the strike plate. Adjusting it improved things but it still doesn't latch easily. And I'm sure it will come loose as it was not esy to tighten down. It works the same level or not right now and I have not checked the door.

[mimie]

Originally Posted by arniesea

My door was also slightly bowed on my new 5.0. It did not impact latching with the stock latch, but when I replaced it with the RV keyless latch, the clearance was tighter and we had to slam the door to get it to latch. When i put a straight edge along the door, it was obvious that the top and bottom were tighter int he frame then middle where the latch is located. I ended up making a jig out of a 2 x 6 and with clamps was able to straighten the door. It works fine now. see picture.

Interesting - my 2019 17B’s door has been harder to latch closed now that I’ve added the RV keyless latch. Have to slam it to get it to close, and generally don’t like to slam doors! Will have to see if alignment is off, as it was on your 5.0. Thanks!