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Old 05-29-2017, 09:54 PM   #21
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It would be easier to replace the curtain that covers the door opening with an insulated curtain than to mess with the door itself. That's what I was considering before deciding my door was insulated anyway. That might help enough.
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:43 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lewis View Post
It would be easier to replace the curtain that covers the door opening with an insulated curtain than to mess with the door itself. That's what I was considering before deciding my door was insulated anyway. That might help enough.
Mike: Glad to hear your door is insulated. The 19 doesn't have an existing curtain and it would most likely interfere with the sliding screen. Personally I prefer leveraging the void in the door for insulation. Much more effective than a curtain and nothing more to deal with when you are done. It really wasn't that hard to accomplish.
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Old 04-25-2021, 12:05 AM   #23
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Came across this old thread while rummaging around for info on insulating my fridge. Realized I have solved the door insulation problem for the early trailers more easily than any of the solutions shown here, so I'll share.

Necessary supplies: Bag of bean bag beads from Walmart ($15), 1 1/8" hole saw, a few pieces of scrap 1" Styrofoam sheeting, any adhesive caulk or glue that won't dissolve the Styrofoam, two 1 1/8" pop in hole caps from the hardware store (I got chromed metal ones, there are also plastic ones), a large mouth funnel with a flexible 1" diameter spout.

You won't need to remove the door, but I suppose you can if you wish. First, remove the door latch (four screws) and set it aside. My door has wood bracing blocks to prevent compressing the inner and outer fiberglass panels, but there are gaps. Cut strips from the Styrofoam scraps and glue them in place between the door panels, filling all the gaps. If you leave any gaps, the beads will leak into the latch mechanism. Once the adhesive has dried, you can replace the latch.

While waiting for the glue to dry, go to the top of the door and mark two points at the top of the horizontal surface of the inner door panel, one above each side of the door window. Drill pilot holes at those marks, then use your hole saw to drill 1 1/8" holes at each pilot hole. Using a step ladder, place the spout of the funnel in the 1 1/8" holes and pour in the Syrofoam beads until the door cavity is completely filled. Bump the door a few times with your fist as you are filling the door to make sure you fill the gaps that may develop under the door latch and under the window. It might be useful to have an assistant to hold the funnel while you pour. Pop in the hole caps, shake and bump the door a few more time, or take a short trip with the trailer to make sure the beads have settled, the remove the caps to see if you can "top up" the cavity, and you are finished.

When you are done you will have used a bit less than half the Styrofoam beads, so consider sharing with a friend at your next rally. If you keep the left over beads, mice, kids or gremlins will eventually put a hole in the bag, and you will have those beads everywhere, and no matter how much you curse me and my existence, I will not accept responsibility for the mess. Those beads will go everywhere. You have been warned!

As for insulating the window, my single pane window has a channel around it that perfectly accommodates a piece of closed cell foam backpacker's sleeping pad cut to shape to fit in the window. Just cut a semi-circular divot at the top to allow for easy insertion and removal. This will also reduce the ambient light when the dolt in the adjacent camp site leaves his outdoor lighting on all night...
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