Dump the RM8551 ?

[Mesa]

Originally Posted by dave1

Myron
Appears that can be purchased without the freezer and dc only. May use a bit less power without the freezer. I see no need to have the a/c ability which should also make it a bit cheaper and less to go wrong.

Davel

This is an interesting idea. Any pro/cons to this? Why would I need AC capability?

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Hey Alf! The RMD8551 was a model with a lot of complaints just like our RML8555. Reace got Dometic to help with a swap to a "more robust cooling unit" with the RMD8555, yet the only help for RMD8551 owners was a new door. Not the solution many had hoped for and if I owned one would be looking to ditch the ****!

Hold on there Ross still have the RmD 8551 ! Many mods ,the most important insulating the cavity . Still working ! Will not trash until it is unfixable . And the shelves are SS not plastic . We deal with horrible temps in the summer as you know so we are still good and we monitor the refrigerator temps and bring a cooler of course ,just a habit for over 40 years . Pat

[MyronL]

OK, now since the other dealerships have not responded to my queries...just sayin' ...

Found this: CamperVan HQ - is in Boulder, Colorado. Their website lists the NovaKool R4500 for $1,090.00 plus shipping (Estimate maybe $175.00 ?). DC only is the standard version. AC/DC versions, and no freezer compartments also available.

My 19's door is 21¼ inches wide. This NovaKool is 20¼ inches wide. Its flange is 21-1/8 inch wide. Reviews are looking good.

info@campervan-hq.com

[dave1]

Myron,
Good find! It’s close enough for a road trip pick up. Save ups the opportunity of destroying it in transit.
Dave

[MyronL]

Yeah, just a 7 hour drive. I think however -- those NovaKools are not sitting there waiting to be sold. Think you have to order one then wait for the Canadians to build it and ship it to the Boulder guys, then they call you and you decide your next step.

Wouldn't it be nice to go pick one up there and ask if they would take the RM8551 as a trade-off? (Otherwise, what can you do with it?)

[DanandDaphne]

Put it up for sale on Craigslist for a couple hundred. There are Schoolies and others who are building their own RV and are looking for RV appliances.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Wouldn't it be nice to go pick one up there and ask if they would take the RM8551 as a trade-off? (Otherwise, what can you do with it?)

Wish you lived closer. I would build an enclosure in the garage and tinker and test until I hopefully figured out the issue when on propane.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Hold on there Ross still have the RmD 8551 ! Many mods ,the most important insulating the cavity . Still working ! Will not trash until it is unfixable . And the shelves are SS not plastic . We deal with horrible temps in the summer as you know so we are still good and we monitor the refrigerator temps and bring a cooler of course ,just a habit for over 40 years . Pat

Sorry Pat- was a bit hasty. What I meant to say is that given the history of complaints from more than a few others here over the last six or more years- if I had chronic problems I wouldn't put up with it but move on. Nice to have a few options now.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

This came up a few years ago. Might be worth checking in with these companies again and seeing if there are any options available. I would start with JC and National RV Refrigeration.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...s-11451-2.html

Thanks. Email sent to JC. I might be interested in their compressor replacement innards.
--
Alan

[MyronL]

I have no doubt the beast's all three modes would work just fine in your garage, Burlington.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

This came up a few years ago. Might be worth checking in with these companies again and seeing if there are any options available. I would start with JC and National RV Refrigeration. ...

A very quick reply from JC:
"No sorry we do not make that model cooling unit and have nothing to offer for it at all".

[MyronL]

At a consumption rate of 60 amps per day- Looking like the NovaKool 4500 on DC requires 200watts of solar power and/or two 100watt batteries to keep it happy. I need to find two flexible solar panels fit for gluing on my roof that meet that need. Just not willing to drill holes for the proud profiled inflexible panels.

Wonder what shipping costs RM8551 would be if I could box it and sold it on eBay.

[MyronL]

Just got an email from the San Diego Dealer. He said, "...not a unit we stock...lead time is 14-15 weeks from NovaKool for new orders." Once they get one in... He needs $225.00 to ship. No returns on special orders.

[MyronL]

Now looking at alternatives. I see Home Depot sells a Grape Solar 190 watt rigid panel for $215.99. I watched RVwithTito on uTube do a very nice solar roof install utilizing T-channeling and adhesives. This could work for me. No holes drilled, very sturdy solar, all the wattage necessary. I can live with the higher profile and likely even make the panel adjustable in angle. The Grape 190w is 58 x 26½ inches.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Now looking at alternatives. I see Home Depot sells a Grape Solar 190 watt rigid panel for $215.99. I watched RVwithTito on uTube do a very nice solar roof install utilizing T-channeling and adhesives. This could work for me. No holes drilled, very sturdy solar, all the wattage necessary. I can live with the higher profile and likely even make the panel adjustable in angle. The Grape 190w is 58 x 26½ inches.

My suggestion after looking at your diagram would be to move the panel further towards the back of the trailer. Any shadowing from the AC will drastically cut down the output. If you can tilt it (and, of course park in the right direction) tilting can provide a 4X increase in output in mid winter.

[MyronL]

Right. That sketch is of course not to scale and building a tilt option makes sense. Notice the NovaKool R3900 DC fridge draws 2.2 running amps which makes me wonder if I wouldn't need a second 100w Battleborn to keep things happy with an added 190watts of solar on the roof. Or, can I get away with buying a Victron Orion DCtoDC charger.

$1020 for the R3800, $215 for the Grape solar panels, plus...

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by MyronL

...makes me wonder if I wouldn't need a second 100w Battleborn...

Myron: I believe you mean 100Ah.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Right. That sketch is of course not to scale and building a tilt option makes sense. Notice the NovaKool R3900 DC fridge draws 2.2 running amps which makes me wonder if I wouldn't need a second 100w Battleborn to keep things happy with an added 190watts of solar on the roof. Or, can I get away with buying a Victron Orion DCtoDC charger.

$1020 for the R3800, $215 for the Grape solar panels, plus...

Personally, I'd want the second battery, but that is because I tend to stay in one place & depend on solar for 95% of my recharging, sometimes running into a string of cloudy days.

By the way, I talked with Battleborn & they suggest that if you want to add a new battery to an existing one(s), do it within 2 years of the original installation.

The DC to DC charger will, of course, only help if you are driving. The additional battery will let you stay in one place longer, particularly in the shade or cloudy weather.

[MyronL]

Right. Here is what Battleborn says:

"Meet the 100 Ah 12 V LiFePO4 Deep Cycle battery, the pinnacle of deep cycle lithium ion battery technology! Our 100 amp hour, 12 volt battery weighs only 31 pounds and is capable of providing you power and relief from battery anxiety. Our batteries run in various systems, including marine, RV, van, and off grid! It’s time to upgrade your heavy lead acid batteries to LiFePO4 batteries and upgrade your lifestyle and ability to adventure!"

I may get just the roof solar and possibly later also the DC to DC charger just to see if this will work with the RM8551 on DC before committing to a new fridge. Laying out another $900+ for a second battery? OIK!

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

My suggestion after looking at your diagram would be to move the panel further towards the back of the trailer. Any shadowing from the AC will drastically cut down the output. If you can tilt it (and, of course park in the right direction) tilting can provide a 4X increase in output in mid winter.

I like to park with my tongue facing true north when I'm out in the open, this way the trailer body provides additional shade for the outdoor sitting area in the late afternoon, AND a lot of the open places I camp are prone to strong westerly afternoon winds, so the trailer acts as a wind break, too, so rigging the solar panel so you can tilt it towards the rear would be a good boost. OTOH, that means you'd have to have some positive locking mechanism to keep it from 'flying' up on the highway, and not just friction clamps.