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Old 07-18-2019, 11:24 AM   #21
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Ha!!! Rubicon is right ... we both cringed at the thought of bypassing the EMS. But, you're also correct when you said people did it/do it when they don't have that protection. Thankfully, our RV technician is squeezing us in tomorrow afternoon and, from talking with him on the phone, he feels it's just the connection from the inside wires to the outside receptacle (fingers crossed). Will let everyone know what happens as this may help someone else with this issue. BTW, our receptacle is a "ParkPower" by Marinco.

HUGE thank you to everyone, especially Gimli, for helping us sort this out. You guys are amazing and it just goes to prove, once again, how helpful this forum is -- especially to those who are new or electrically-challenged (or plumbing-challenged as well). And Bill and Earline, safe travels!
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:26 AM   #22
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I believe CA has a newer trailer, 2017 or later, so at any rate, she should have the Marinco receptacle.
My new one was at least different in one way, because it was much easier to attach and unattach. Which was worth the extra money right there.
CA, please let us know what the electrician discovers and good luck.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:31 AM   #23
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Hooray!
And at least you won't have to dismantle the bed..my poor tech just fit in between the support slats! Luckily he was a trim, fit guy...whew.
I was so tempted to take a pic
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:45 AM   #24
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Our tech is not svelte and we have the Springfield table so it will be a chore for him to access under the dinette. After he rushed to fixed our broken window and now fixing the electrical, this guy is getting a nice gift certificate for dinner somewhere. Will keep you posted.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:51 AM   #25
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And to clarify...it took two techs, the svelte one to hold the receptacle on the inside and yell instructions to the not-so-svelte one on the outside...who then turned a screw, a bolt...something...
Good luck!!
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:05 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson View Post
Both my 2010 and 2017 came stock with Marinco marine plug and cord sets. Both detachable. Did ETI ever use anything else?
Mt 2017 21' has a Conntek receptacle (made by Well Shin) and a Conntek (Well Shin) power cord.

http://conntek.com/products.asp?id=211

http://conntek.com/products.asp?id=1113

It's comparable to a Marinco but not a Marinco - not even close to the same quality. When it fails, I'll will change it out to a Marinco but so far, I haven't had any problems with it.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:14 PM   #27
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So, Connetek must have the more difficult attach experience. I believe techs commented they would replace with a better plug.
I had an inferior plug and a poor connection...doomed for failure and was so fortunate to have an RV shop as part of the campground amenities.

Thanks for checking.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:24 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimli View Post
So, Connetek must have the more difficult attach experience. I believe techs commented they would replace with a better plug.
I had an inferior plug and a poor connection...doomed for failure and was so fortunate to have an RV shop as part of the campground amenities.

Thanks for checking.
The first thing I did when I got the trailer home from Chilliwack was change the twist lock to a
Marinco 100EL Easy Lock Ring.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:04 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Bill and Earline View Post
When attaching the cord, the socket appears to allow a few degrees of rotation when making the connection and then the black locking ring can be applied, also by using some rotation.
It's not just that it "allows" some rotation: it is a twist-lock connection, so it must be rotated after insertion to make those electrical connections.

Almost all detachable 30-amp RV cords, including all of those installed by Escape, are standard NEMA L5-30 connectors. They are common in industrial/commercial use, but they're not weatherproof at all so the ones used for RVs and boats have an added weatherproofing cover, with its own threaded ring or bayonet ring or clamp. Many people don't make the electrical connection properly (don't turn it enough to engage fully), then jam the cover ring on and hope that fixes everything. It doesn't.

The black ring acts as a backup, but if the connector is plugged in properly the ring isn't needed at all to lock the connection.
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:05 PM   #30
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My 2016 had the Conntek and I installed the Marinco ring, that is another reason why I switched back to attached plug. I installed a separate 15 amp power supply and now use that all the time except when a/c is needed. Btw, I have an extra Marinco ring I'll try to bring to the next rally for those with the Conntek set up.
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Mt 2017 21' has a Conntek receptacle (made by Well Shin) and a Conntek (Well Shin) power cord.

http://conntek.com/products.asp?id=211

http://conntek.com/products.asp?id=1113

It's comparable to a Marinco but not a Marinco - not even close to the same quality. When it fails, I'll will change it out to a Marinco but so far, I haven't had any problems with it.


My bad, you’re right, our 2017 is a Conntek.
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Old 07-18-2019, 04:32 PM   #32
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FWIW, the cord and inlet on my 2014 E21 are both Marinco...
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:14 PM   #33
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Hooray!
And at least you won't have to dismantle the bed..my poor tech just fit in between the support slats! Luckily he was a trim, fit guy...whew.
I was so tempted to take a pic
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimli View Post
And to clarify...it took two techs, the svelte one to hold the receptacle on the inside and yell instructions to the not-so-svelte one on the outside...who then turned a screw, a bolt...something...
Good luck!!
The Marinco plug I installed was entirely from the outside. If there is a problem with the standard Escape plug or wiring connection why is it not just unscrewed from the outside? When you do that you should have everything you need to work with right in your hand. I’m confused about this talk about needing to get under the bed.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:40 PM   #34
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Electricians tried for over a half hour to unscrew the 30 amp plug from the outside. First one guy tried, then the supervisor. I watched them. It wouldn't budge...at least on my trailer.
They were very frustrated and wanted to know why Escape made accessing the wiring so difficult.
For whatever reason, it took someone on the inside to force something free.
I don't think I heard the specifics.
Maybe something melted.
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Old 07-19-2019, 05:51 AM   #35
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I can see a difference between taking a conventional 30 amp set up and converting it to the removable Marinco set up because you can work from outside and cut the wire to fit. But replacing an existing removable Conntek to upgrade to a Marinco may need some inside work to make the exchange.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:08 AM   #36
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But replacing an existing removable Conntek to upgrade to a Marinco may need some inside work to make the exchange.
The Conntek looks very similar to the Marinco design. I don’t see why you would need inside work but if they don’t leave enough slack in the power line then you are right. You would be inside to make the connections and that would be a real pain especially in the 19 under the bed.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:35 AM   #37
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Electricians could not pull the Conntek receptacle away from the fiberglass. They just could not do it.
Hopefully CA's guy will have a better experience.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:48 AM   #38
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I'm finding most of the Escape's wiring is made to fit, in other words there is not much slack in any of the wire lengths, 120v or 12v. When making modifications I find I have to make cuts and then add wire versus just splicing into an existing circuit.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:58 AM   #39
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I'm finding most of the Escape's wiring is made to fit, in other words there is not much slack in any of the wire lengths, 120v or 12v. When making modifications I find I have to make cuts and then add wire versus just splicing into an existing circuit.
The NEC requires 6” of free conductor at electrical devices to allow for removal , repair , replacement . If the installation is done correctly you should be able to replace the device without splicing on wires .
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:23 AM   #40
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That maybe true on residential wiring but have you worked on a new automobile lately, their wiring harness, similar to Escapes are all custom made, No slack and definitely not 6" extra extra wire.
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