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Old 07-19-2019, 07:38 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
That maybe true on residential wiring but have you worked on a new automobile lately, their wiring harness, similar to Escapes are all custom made, No slack and definitely not 6" extra extra wire.
The 6” free conductor rule does not apply only to residential .
RV wiring is covered under the NEC , automotive wiring is not covered under the NEC
There is also the rules of best trade practice which basically says that the NEC is the bare minimum and there are times where you need to exceed the code .
I will stop my comments right here
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:44 AM   #42
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Steve is correct should be 6” slack
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:55 AM   #43
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If someone, perhaps a moderator, wants to gather more info abt my experience, and end this speculation and questioning, here is the link to the Rv service shop if they keep records and can recall the incident...I'd think it would be hard to forget.

https://www.teamrvinc.com/
Date: April 30th
Name: Julie Paynter
Where I stayed: Albany RV resort
The gentlman who climbed in between the slats and had to turn sideways to fit, was a supervisor and with silver hair, I believe.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:31 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
That maybe true on residential wiring but have you worked on a new automobile lately, their wiring harness, similar to Escapes are all custom made, No slack and definitely not 6" extra extra wire.
Sure, but cars are not buildings. The work required to repair or modify wiring in buildings (residential or not) is significantly different from the work done in an automotive system. Wiring connections are now rarely fixed or modified in cars; if there is damage, the entire plug-in harness section is removed and replaced... and you can't do that in an Escape (or the coach wiring of any brand of RV that I've seen) because it isn't built as harness sections joined by connectors, but instead is strung together from individual wires just as in a building. You need to be able to work with each end of each of those wires.

My old Triumph Spitfire is wired like a house, with no separation into harness sections. As a rule of thumb, nothing done by Triumph should ever be considered good practice to be copied.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:41 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimli View Post
Electricians could not pull the Conntek receptacle away from the fiberglass. They just could not do it.
Hopefully CA's guy will have a better experience.
Many times when there is over heating in an electrical device ( Poor wire connections , oveloading , low quality device with small contact area ) , the plastic parts of the device will heat and warp making it almost impossible to seperate the plastic parts . Many of the higher grade electrical devices are made with a heat resistant nylon
Compare a $2 cord cap to a $10 cord cap or a residential grade receptacle to a hospital grade receptacle , the differences are obvious even to the untrained eye
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Old 07-19-2019, 01:34 PM   #46
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Electrician showed me a plastic part...burn marks from arcing. That's when the comment "poor workmanship" arose.
And perhaps comments abt the quality of the components...can't be as confident abt that.
I was just so surprised..stunned really...that Escape Industries, known for their quality and attention to detail on this forum...had this issue.
I don't regret my purchase. That's not the point. There isn't another fiberglass trailer that I would have bought, or been able to afford.
I just wasn't expecting this kind of problem with Escape trailers. It shook me up.
And I've tried to be accurate and honest in my retelling. Not overdramatizing it, but not minimizing it either.
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Old 07-19-2019, 02:25 PM   #47
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We have power!!

Okay, our RV tech, Dennis, came early so we now have a full report. And, before I start, let me just preface this by saying that Dennis, who used to build boats for a living, loves our trailer -- as he loved the 19’ before it. He thinks they are well made and, by all standards, darn good little trailers -- and he always entertains us by humming “Oh, Canada” while he’s working.

Dennis removed the outside receptacle while his helper stayed crammed inside to hold the nuts, etc. (Oh, he told us that when you pry off the outside receptacle after removing the screws, use WD-40 on your putty knife as it makes it easier to slip through the putty and helps to prevent marring of the gel coat.) When he removed the inner part of the outside receptacle, a wire terminal and the screw holding the ground wire fell out (see photo). The other two terminals were lying inside, not connected. It appeared that the wires weren’t torqued down enough during build so bouncing along eventually jostled the wires loose and caused the error. Turns out, the clip on the inside receptacle was probably instrumental in keeping the wires in place which was why, when my husband would jiggle it, the error code would go away (photo).

Dennis stripped the wires a bit more, torqued everything down really, really well, tested it and we are now good to go. He explained that, had we let it go, the ground wire could have touched one of the other wires, causing arcing and then things would have started to melt -- which is what happened to Julie. He also said this is one of the most common problems that he sees with ALL brands of RVs. So there you have it, problem solved.
Attached Thumbnails
Wire terminals and screw.jpg   Clip that held the wires.jpg   Pulling the receptacle.jpg   Wires.jpg  
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Old 07-19-2019, 02:35 PM   #48
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Great news and appreciate the detail!
Enjoy your trip to Bandon!
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Old 07-19-2019, 02:44 PM   #49
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The terminals on some electrical devices are rated for solid wire only , some are rated for stranded wire only and some are dual rated .
I am wondering if the receptacle / device pictured is rated for solid wire ?
Standard practice is to strip the wire to the proper length , terminate the wires by tightening / torquing the terminal screw , wiggling / pulling on the wires to make sure the wires are properly seated and then tighten / torqued a second time.
We carried torque wrenches and torque screw drivers on our service trucks because some electrical equipment / devices / circuit breakers have torque specs and inspectors often would check to see if the connections were properly torqued to spec
Saved a lot of call backs , burnt wires ,damaged equipment and mad customers
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Old 07-19-2019, 02:46 PM   #50
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Standard practice is to strip the wire to the proper length , terminate the wires by tightening / torquing the terminal screw , wiggling / pulling on the wires to make sure they are properly seated and then tighten / torque a second time.

I noticed he did go through that sequence ...
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Old 07-19-2019, 03:22 PM   #51
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As a point to consider, my power cord blew when I was across the street from an RV shop that was owned by the RV resort I stayed at.
CA's happened in her driveway, albeit two days before leaving on a trip. These were lucky, fortuitous occurrences.
I take it Dennis feels this connection problem is basically a standard practice and to be expected.
My electrician had a different opinion and felt it was subpar work. It's up to each owner to decide how to proceed from here and what, if any, extra tools to pack. We now have photos on, perhaps, how to correct this issue.
I am very thankful my "upgrade" already occurred and won't have to worry abt it. I'm a solo traveler much of the time until hubby retires and being at a hot dusty campground in the middle of nowhere, with no AC, is the stuff nightmares are made of.
I can manage several days without just abt everything else; fridge, ( always bring a cooler for backup) water heater ( campground showers are fine in a pinch) or water pump.
I am always at a site with W&E unless an emergency arises....a boondocker I am not.
I need electricity for my own creature comforts though I understand from CA's original post, there are work arounds if you lose your 30 amp power.

As a side note: I took my Casita in last winter to have it winterized at a RV repair shop and the owner told me, quietly, when no other customers were around, that most of these 40 ft mammoth trailers, and stickies of all sizes and shapes, were "crap"...that's a quote.
Then asked where I got my Casita.
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Old 07-19-2019, 03:42 PM   #52
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One point - it is a good idea to check the tightness of all your electrical connections regularly. Most devices are designed for a sedentary life & rolling down the highway & worse can loosen connections. Loose connections cause intermittent problems & in worst cases, overheating & burned wires & devices.

Obviously, power should be off (both battery & AC) when checking & tightening. Usually not listed as preventative maintenance, but it should be.
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:08 PM   #53
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Emboldened by this thread, I disassembled my Marinco socket to address my intermittent E02 code.

To my amazement and relief, there was the bare ground wire that had come loose after 5 years and 80,000 miles of highways.

Reinserted it, tightened it all, and now back in business.

One hour, no mobile mechanic, happy to be in the forum family.
Attached Thumbnails
95DF3EB9-A3F7-4A6D-8C12-31DE81F623D9.jpg   507E5473-4414-42C4-9F35-8632317A0A8C.jpg  
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:12 PM   #54
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Wow!! So glad you were able to figure out the source of your error code as well. Sounds like everything is now safe and secure. Safe travels!!
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:27 PM   #55
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Thanks Jan. This points out the benefit for those with warranty issues to post so others out of warranty can be proactive.
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:19 AM   #56
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Power issue

We had same issues, was our surge peotector in the camper, batteries would not charge. New protector solved the problem
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