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Old 08-13-2016, 07:41 PM   #1
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E21 Hose band removal

I am having some plumbing issues on the 21
First the Toilet Valve broke, lesson learned - close water source when leaving trailer
Now I have a hose split, easy to get to, it is the clear braided hose that goes to the pump under the bed. One end unscrews from the pump, the other end goes to a fitting on the cold water line.
problem the end of the hose is clamped with what appears to be a 1/2 band of Metal on a plastic fitting. I can't figure out how to get that band off. Added frustration all the fittings there (4) have the same type of clamp so I can't pull a the fittings out to work on them. Anyone have any idea how to get these little clamps off It is not in a place I can use a small grinder and if I break the plastic fitting I am really screwed.
Personal note; whatever engineer figured this was a good idea because water hoses never break aught to find a different, simpler job!
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:10 PM   #2
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I think what you are seeing it the crimp ring bands used on PEX water pipes. It is pretty much the standard way to attach PEX pipes. They make special tools to cut off the bands, but I've used my Dremel tool or a hack saw blade to carefully cut off the band without damaging the PEX. There are basically band type and crimp type connectors for PEX, or a "sharkbite" type connectors that work with PEX. The ones Escape uses are the band type and are the most commonly used by professionals. Both band ones need a special tool, the sharkbite ones do not.
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:13 PM   #3
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Can you get the tool at Home Depot or Lowes?
I don't have the room to get a Dremel or hacksaw in there
Thanks also for giving a name to my problem
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:18 PM   #4
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Unless you plan on replumbing the entire trailer, you'll probably want to rent the PEX tool. They're very expensive.
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:23 PM   #5
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Unless you plan on replumbing the entire trailer, you'll probably want to rent the PEX tool. They're very expensive.
The crimp tools are not too expensive, I have this one. But we have a greenhouse that I needed to do some work on. Some folks report very good luck with the sharkbite types.
The special tools for cutting the bands look like this. Cutting them loose was about the hardest part of changing my water pump.
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:26 PM   #6
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Just watched Utube on clamp removal, I think I am going to change them all to copper/brass fitting using the shark connectors. Sometimes I really miss my Casita
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:28 PM   #7
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Just watched Utube on clamp removal, I think I am going to change them all to copper/brass fitting using the shark connectors. Sometimes I really miss my Casita
New Casitas probably use PEX and the same connections - it has become pretty standard in plumbing. The PEX is supposed to be much more resistant to damage if it ever gets water frozen inside.... not that I want to test that!
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:49 PM   #8
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plumbing

sharkbite is the way to go if a pex fitting goes bad or you have to put in a shutoff valve or whatever use the sharkbite it's less expensive then buying the pex tools .If your doing the whole trailer over, go buy the pex tools but for 1-2 fittings the sharkbite is the way to go
We installed a pressure tank in our Snoozy and just cut the pex lines and used all sharkbite pieces .
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:00 AM   #9
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The confusing thing about people referring to "sharkbite" connections and tools is that in some cases they mean the "push-fit" O-ring sealed fitting type that connects without tools, and in other cases they mean SharkBite brand tools and components used for the entirely different crimped barb connections.

Unrelated to the SharkBite name, there is actually another connection method for PEX: expansion (see video demo). There are power tools which expand the tubing, which then slips easily over the barb of the fitting and contracts to fit tightly without needing a crimped ring clamping it. There is a ring used, but it is just a bit of larger PEX tubing to reinforce the joint. If crimping tools look expensive for occasional use, this system is worse!

I've used the O-ring connectors, but I don't really trust them. They depend heavily on a near-perfect outside surface of the PEX tubing, and although it seems like they work fine for everyone, I shudder at the thought of one leaking inside a cabinet. Now that I know about the band-cutting tool (thanks Eric ) I'll probably do only crimped rings on barbs with PEX in the future. I don't mind buying the tools - a single visit by a plumber would cost as much as basic tools, and they're last a lifetime (or what I have left, anyway).
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:20 AM   #10
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Are you using a city water pressure regulator?
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:44 AM   #11
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Now I have a hose split, easy to get to, it is the clear braided hose that goes to the pump under the bed. One end unscrews from the pump, the other end goes to a fitting on the cold water line.
problem the end of the hose is clamped with what appears to be a 1/2 band of Metal on a plastic fitting. I can't figure out how to get that band off. Added frustration all the fittings there (4) have the same type of clamp...
The clear braided hose is reinforced vinyl, which is exactly what you want on the pump outlet because it minimizes transmission of pump vibration through the trailer via the relatively rigid PEX tubing. Hose like this is clamped onto a barbed fitting by some sort of hose clamp. It should not be clamped by the same sort of ring as used to hold PEX tubing onto a barbed fitting, because those are sized specifically for PEX (and the barbs are supposed to be different types, too, but the vinyl will work on the PEX-style barb).

There are many styles of hose clamp, including the cinched and crimped types of band used with PEX (but sized to suit the tubing). Normally a stainless steel gear band clamp would be used, and that's certainly what I would put on if I were to replace this hose.
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:10 AM   #12
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If there is enough hose that's unsplit on the water line T end of the braided hose, could you cut the braided line after the split and put in a strait connector instead of playing with the existing clamps? From what I see online, the cutter is none too small, as well as running $60.
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:44 AM   #13
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Are you using a city water pressure regulator?
Excellent observation and unanswered question....could be the culprit.
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Old 08-14-2016, 09:51 AM   #14
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Actually I do use a pressure reducer on the spigot head. I also carry a water pressure gauge and checked the pressure on the line at 20+ . I could cut the braided line and put a connector in , but the area is tight, and I am in there anyway, I might as well put some clamps on that I can actually work on when I am camping. I did not understand the PEX clamps on the braided line anyway, and to get the line off and replace it I have to break the clamp on the fitting by the wall. Again no room to work and I would be trying to cut a metal band on a tube connected to a plastic fitting with what?, so as the saying goes "it is better to do it right the first than to have to do it again. Besides isn't that the fun of owning a travel trailer.
Actually my wife was looking at the modifications and found the one for the pneumatic pedestal for the table, so guess whats next.
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:50 AM   #15
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There is a PEX solid band ring on the flexible braided line? I wouldn't think that there would be a matching PEX band sized for that nor that it would make a good connection. Can you take a picture of it and post it for us? I've only seen that type of pipe with the clamp Brian describes above.

I have used these on flexible pipe on a drip irrigation systems in our garden, but I've never seen them used on higher pressure applications or in a home or trailer.

Any pictures you can take and post of the area you are working on might help make sure we're not providing incorrect advice.
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:09 PM   #16
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There is a PEX solid band ring on the flexible braided line? I wouldn't think that there would be a matching PEX band sized for that nor that it would make a good connection. Can you take a picture of it and post it for us? I've only seen that type of pipe with the clamp Brian describes above.

I have used these on flexible pipe on a drip irrigation systems in our garden, but I've never seen them used on higher pressure applications or in a home or trailer.

Any pictures you can take and post of the area you are working on might help make sure we're not providing incorrect advice.
Yes, I recently posted pictures of the accumulator that I added. PEX fittings are used by ETI on the braided tubing BUT as I indicated it is thin wall braided tubing not available in your local hardware store as it has to accommodate the external rings and the internal PEX fittings. I bought some from ETI at $1.50 a foot from ETI the last time I was up there.
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:15 PM   #17
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Yes, I recently posted pictures of the accumulator that I added. PEX fittings are used by ETI on the braided tubing BUT as I indicated it is thin wall braided tubing not available in your local hardware store as it has to accommodate the external rings and the internal PEX fittings. I bought some from ETI at $1.50 a foot from ETI the last time I was up there.
Anyone have a picture of these lines ? Pat
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:38 PM   #18
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Yes, I recently posted pictures of the accumulator that I added. PEX fittings are used by ETI on the braided tubing BUT as I indicated it is thin wall braided tubing not available in your local hardware store as it has to accommodate the external rings and the internal PEX fittings. I bought some from ETI at $1.50 a foot from ETI the last time I was up there.
Thanks Tim. I hadn't known that that kind of tubing existed. Does it look like it has more reinforcement threads to make up for the thinner walls?
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:45 PM   #19
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Here's some of my 2014, should be similiar but located in a different spot.

#1 is the braided, it is indeed a pex clamp.
#2 is the other side of the pump, on mine it goes to the winterizing valve and is clear. They used a regular hose clamp on the pump end, pex on the other.
#3 is of all things MOLD, in the line between the winterizing valve and the fresh water tank. Guess I've got to do some sterilizing. There was water trapped between the winterizing valve and the tank in what amounts to a p trap in the hose. Trailers been sitting since May. Guess I need to start blowing it out when not in use as opposed to just draining the system.

Good thing I went to take these pictures.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hose1.jpg (139.6 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg hose2.jpg (52.9 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg hose3.jpg (84.1 KB, 27 views)
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:47 PM   #20
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Thanks Tim. I hadn't known that that kind of tubing existed. Does it look like it has more reinforcement threads to make up for the thinner walls?
I don't see a difference, it is just thinner. I did find it from big suppliers but you had to buy 100' so 3' from ETI seemed reasonable. I put getting some from ETI up there with getting some of the oak tape, which I could NEVER find any place. Glad I have a couple feet of that for repairs to the finish on the paneling.
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