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Old 05-09-2022, 08:11 PM   #1
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Electrical issues

Just trying to get my Escape 19 going again after sitting idle for 2 years.

Have had the batteries on maintainer in the garage so thought should be OK.

Put the batteries back in and none of the lights turned on.

Plugged in to 120 and nothing works.

Wondering if my batteries are done? Or making some silly mistake. The converter doesn't seem to charge the batteries when I plug into ac, it reads 0 amps.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Hugh
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Old 05-09-2022, 08:18 PM   #2
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Maybe an in-line fuse is missing or bad? Or breakers. Are you sure your plug in for the trailer cord is hot? And finally your on/off switch at the dinette is “ON”. How about the GFI on the outside duplex receptacle?. That’s all I got
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Old 05-10-2022, 10:35 AM   #3
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electric

Thanks for suggestions. The battery disconnect switch is "on" position. I was wondering if it might be a fuse. The red light is on where the power cord connects to the trailer so I think there is power there.

Might have to get mobile RV doctor out to look at it.
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Old 05-10-2022, 11:51 AM   #4
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Hugh this is a classic case of why the most simple and cheapest multi-meter is worth its' weight in gold.

Even if you're not used to dealing with electrical items using one to "follow the power" is dead easy and if this type of situation happens again when you're away from getting a service technician you'll be able to deal with it yourself.

If you get a cheap multi-meter, say from Princess Auto, we can walk you step-by-step through finding the problem.

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Old 05-10-2022, 02:45 PM   #5
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Strange. You might have multiple issues because the WFCO converter should power all 12V DC items once you are plugged into AC power even if the batteries are dead/disconnected. Do you have the Progressive Industries EMS with display that indicates status of 120V AC power into the trailer? Where are you reading 0 amps?
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Old 05-10-2022, 05:36 PM   #6
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Are you sure the batteries were installed with the correct polarity ? I’ve seen this happen on boats on a few occasions, usually results in a lots of smoke. I think doing that would blow a fuse in the inverter and shut off all 12 V power.
Just an idea, Bob
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Old 05-10-2022, 08:45 PM   #7
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electrical issue update

Turns out I had forgot to connect one of the leads to the battery. So now lights and fan are working on battery only.

I tested the battery voltage with a multimeter reads 12.7v which seems low, and when I turn the inverter on it is cycling the voltage from 6v to 12.4v. So maybe my battery voltage too low.

I plugged in 120v AC power and turned on the EMS, now reads 3 amps current so I hope that means it is charging the battery.

Will leave connected overnight and see what the battery voltage is. Hopefully don't need to change them out they are the original dual 6V batteries from 2016.

Thanks for all the suggestions
Hugh
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Old 05-10-2022, 09:03 PM   #8
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Glad you figured the first step out. Hope everything comes up to spec. But if your batteries need replaced at least you got a good run out of them.
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Old 05-10-2022, 09:04 PM   #9
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batteries

Thanks. Is there a thread that talks about alternatives for replacing the dual 6V lead acid batteries?
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Old 05-10-2022, 09:07 PM   #10
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batteries

What would be normal life expectancy for the lead acid batteries coming standard with the Escape I believe Interstate?
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Old 05-10-2022, 09:14 PM   #11
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Ours were new in the summer of 2017 when we had the solar installed in the 21. They are still doing well. The trailer is always plugged in and I add water usually twice a year. Not much but they always take some in each cell.

I think 5-6-7 years is about average from reading the forum for several years. As Donna D opines YMMV
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Old 05-10-2022, 11:46 PM   #12
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Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that if you are plugged into shore power, that the WFCO converter will power the 12V circuits, even if the battery is disconnected (i.e. in storage mode). If your 12V lights, fan, etc do not work with shore power, even if your batteries were not hooked up, I would suspect a problem with the WFCO converter or one of the fuses on it.

Even if your battery level is low (>=12V will make things work even without the WFCO), things should work on shore power while the battery is being recharged.
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Old 05-11-2022, 08:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hughharden View Post
What would be normal life expectancy for the lead acid batteries coming standard with the Escape I believe Interstate?
My 2013 Escape 19' is still using the factory twin 6V Interstate batteries. I replaced the twin 6V Interstate batteries a couple of years ago on our 2013 15B, so it is quite likely that I will be replacing the 9 year old batteries in the 19' at any time.
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Old 05-11-2022, 11:12 AM   #14
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So the maintainer was connected directly to the battery terminals?

If there was a day or so interval between disconnecting the maintainer I wouldn't be too worried about a battery reading of 12.7V. The float charge above that reading will disappear pretty quickly. Time will tell if they still have usable capacity.

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Old 05-11-2022, 11:46 AM   #15
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batteries

I had it plugged into 120V AC overnight and now the batteries read 13.4V.

The inverter buzzes and cycles between 13.4 and 10V input power and no power at the outlets.

I will keep the AC connected for another day and see if it works out.
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Old 05-18-2022, 08:23 PM   #16
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The inverter input voltage cycling indicates it is not getting enough input current, resulting in the voltage dropping, and the inverter temporarily turning off until the voltage rises again. This situation is usually caused by one of two reasons: a loose connection in the wiring between the batteries and the inverter, or bad batteries. It is possible for bad batteries to show 13.4 volts with no load but fail when a load is applied. Try turning on your furnace while measuring battery voltage (and AC disconnected). If voltage drops more than one volt with the furnace motor running, it is likely the batteries are bad. Many places that sell batteries can test them under load for you to confirm their health.
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Old 05-19-2022, 08:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hughharden View Post
I had it plugged into 120V AC overnight and now the batteries read 13.4V.

The inverter buzzes and cycles between 13.4 and 10V input power and no power at the outlets.

I will keep the AC connected for another day and see if it works out.
If the inverter was working correctly before you stored your trailer, cleaning the battery terminals on the cables between the battery and the inverter should fix the problem.

If the inverter seemed to not want to work before when the battery was a little low on charge, take a look at the following link.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...les-19164.html
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