Electrical problem - new for me

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by JeffO4297

So I turned off all the breakers except the top two, which I believe are main and inverter/fridge.

Minor detail but to prevent confusion this should be Converter/Fridge. Converters take the 120V AC and make 12V DC.

[padlin]

Once the batteries are charged try the breakers again. Do get a meter to check the actual voltage at the batteries.

Do you have an inverter? if so make sure it is off.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by JeffO4297

Update; With all the breaker switches in the off position the EMS panel was reading normally E0/122 etc....I waited several hours and then turned on the breakers, at which point the EMS panel clicked into another mode and turned on the PE4 note.
So I turned off all the breakers except the top two, which I believe are main and inverter/fridge.
It now seems to show a charging battery, which was not happening before

It sounds like you need either
1. A 30 amp service with something like this -
https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...-100/313246467

2. Take a hard look at what you can power with your existing power connection such that the PE4 doesn't pop up. Moving the trailer closer to the outlet powering the trailer would help but with your setup you still only have 15 amps of power max. With 15 amps, you will only be able to run a limited number of devices.

[alanmalk]

Your error code of PE4 and skinny extension cord are consistent. You may have just enough 110VAC at the trailer to power a 110VAC lamp or two but not much more. Your best bet is a combination of shorter and fatter wire. Not a cheap solution but necessary.
--
Alan

[yangstyle]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Not sure if you ordered the dual heat water heater but if so make sure the power switch is turned off on it as well.

I would check to make sure that the hot water element is off also. We had that problem a few times on our trip in September as the heating element takes 10 or 11 Amps and for some services it was just too much depending on what else was running.
In some campsites we were ok until the element kicked in then it would blow the breaker.

[JeffO4297]

Talk about a learning curve. I'm glad that there are folks out there smarter than me. Indeed it did say converter (I don't have an inverter).
The water tank is off and dry for the winter.
I'm thinking that the light wire is probably the big issue. In the winter I only run the super small heater - the one that only takes similar amount to a light bulb - and nothing else.
The option of moving closer is not great so the more robust wire is probably the fix.
I'll let the batteries charge and then try to bring the breakers on line. Stay tuned.
Again, I really appreciate all of the great input from everybody

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by yangstyle

I would check to make sure that the hot water element is off also. We had that problem a few times on our trip in September as the heating element takes 10 or 11 Amps and for some services it was just too much depending on what else was running.
In some campsites we were ok until the element kicked in then it would blow the breaker.

Close. The Suburban SW6DE electric element is 1440W which is 12 amps @ 120V.

[Eggscape]

Dave how much draw is there from the converter/charger when the batteries are that low?

Also some extension cords like this Woods brand one has its rating moulded right into the plug if the tag is missing.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Dave how much draw is there from the converter/charger when the batteries are that low?

The WFCO manual states 11A at 105V. Not sure it ever gets that high in practice though.

[Bill and Earline]

Originally Posted by JeffO4297

Update; With all the breaker switches in the off position the EMS panel was reading normally E0/122 etc....I waited several hours and then turned on the breakers, at which point the EMS panel clicked into another mode and turned on the PE4 note.
So I turned off all the breakers except the top two, which I believe are main and inverter/fridge.
It now seems to show a charging battery, which was not happening before

To boost your electrical knowledge (and I once had this experience at a friend's house) notice the voltage with no load--you said 122 volts, then watch as you start adding circuits or devices.

With that thin 100' cord, it will most likely drop significantly with one device--maybe down to 110 volts, then when you add another, down to 107 volts. I don't remember when the EMS shuts the system down--probably about 105. This is a brown-out, and it ruins devices. That's why the EMS shuts down and shows an error.

[Perry Butler]

We have a seasonal site at the local campground. We're the last seasonal and to our west are ten daily sites. One week, while we were camping elsewhere, at least three seasonals arrived on a Friday only to find their expensive 30 amp electrical cords stolen (plus other items).

I purchased a heavy 15 amp, twenty foot, 12/3 or better, 110 electric cord that we now plug in instead of the 30 amp that Escape provided (I'll look at the cord to recheck the amp rating/guage the next time I get to the camper). We don't have a inverter, microwave, coffeemaker, etc., so really don't need a 30 amp cord. We can run our AC and the cord doesn't heat, but we rarely use the AC anyway, and have yet to use it away from our seasonal.

I farmed for over 20 years and learned you don't purchase 14/3 or smaller for heavy loads. Like John said, "That should be at LEAST 12/3, and 10/3 would be better."

I'd also make sure your batteries get to 100% charge before going any further, or you might be buying new batteries.

Enjoy,

Perry

[padlin]

Originally Posted by Bill and Earline

With that thin 100' cord, it will most likely drop significantly with one device--maybe down to 110 volts, then when you add another, down to 107 volts. I don't remember when the EMS shuts the system down--probably about 105.

Close, 104.

[Oldtimer]

It’s just me all my cords are 12 ,10 , or 8 gauge anything lower not allowed seen too many power tools burn up n u fortunately a few houses burn down due to 14 and 16 gauge being used

David

[gmchamplin]

Originally Posted by Bill and Earline

To boost your electrical knowledge (and I once had this experience at a friend's house) notice the voltage with no load--you said 122 volts, then watch as you start adding circuits or devices.

It might also be useful to notice the current (amps) that are going through the EMS in your different scenarios. This is displayed right after the voltage.

[brroberts]

I run a lot of audio. For 120v drops of 50’ and under I use 12ga cords. 100’ and under I only use 10ga. I would move gear before running 120v more than 100’. If I had to, I’d insist on an 8ga minimum. It really does matter.

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

The WFCO manual states 11A at 105V. Not sure it ever gets that high in practice though.

Thanks Dave...I figured it could be close to max for that cord.

It would also interesting how much wire is feeding that new plug. How far is it away from the main panel?

[JeffO4297]

Update; This morning the charging continues. Battery 1 is at 90% and charging at 2A on both EMS screen and power screen. Battery 2 is not available to view as I press the B button. I think that means that battery 1 is not 100% but will charge battery 2 when that happens.
Shopping right now for a better extension cord


I have 12/3 cord in the Amazon que. I plan to run the winter heater (advertised as less than standard light bulb draw) and a small fan. No big heaters or anything else during storage.
The plug in - after checking - is wired near the hot tub and is a 30A service.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by JeffO4297

Update; This morning the charging continues. Battery 1 is at 90% and charging at 2A on both EMS screen and power screen. Battery 2 is not available to view as I press the B button. I think that means that battery 1 is not 100% but will charge battery 2 when that happens.
Shopping right now for a better extension cord


I have 12/3 cord in the Amazon que. I plan to run the winter heater (advertised as less than standard light bulb draw) and a small fan. No big heaters or anything else during storage.
The plug in - after checking - is wired near the hot tub and is a 30A service.

If the two 12V batteries are wired in parallel (most likely) both will show in the display as battery 1. Battery 2 is only used when you have an independently wired battery. See section 7 (page 13) of the GoPower manual.

Also, the manual points out that GoPower considers 90% as full. From page 19 "A value of 100% will only be displayed after a Boost or Equalize charge completes".

[JeffO4297]

Thanks for that prompt reply. I usually am a manual guy but some of that I missed. I did see the 90% thing but forgot, so thanks for the reminder. I didn't see the part about wired in parallel. I guess in addition to ordering better cords I need to go back and refresh my reading of the manual
Thanks


Update, embarrassing admission; When things looked like they were returning to normal I plugged in the heater, after turning on the breakers. I also turned on the WH breaker just for fun. The EMS clicked like there was a significant draw. So, I looked and sure enough I had not turned the electric hot water to the off position.
With just the floor heater EMS says I draw 2A


Follow up question; before I turned off the breakers there was power to the trailer for a while. Did I damage the hot water heater element?

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by JeffO4297

Thanks for that prompt reply. I usually am a manual guy but some of that I missed. I did see the 90% thing but forgot, so thanks for the reminder. I didn't see the part about wired in parallel. I guess in addition to ordering better cords I need to go back and refresh my reading of the manual
Thanks


Update, embarrassing admission; When things looked like they were returning to normal I plugged in the heater, after turning on the breakers. I also turned on the WH breaker just for fun. The EMS clicked like there was a significant draw. So, I looked and sure enough I had not turned the electric hot water to the off position.
With just the floor heater EMS says I draw 2A


Follow up question; before I turned off the breakers there was power to the trailer for a while. Did I damage the hot water heater element?

If there was no water in the tank, it only takes less than a minute to damage the element. 3 things can happen - 1. No damage. 2. Melt the sheathing around the heater wire. In this case the element will still work & heat water, however the electrical leakage between the element & water will trip GFCIs. 3. Burn out the element - no hot water. You can check this (after filling the tank) by watching the EMS readout when first switching on the electric element. Should show at least 10 amps on the amperage readout if the element is still functioning. You can still have damaged the sheath to the point where it will trip GFCIs.