Electrical system troubleshooting

[Rossue]

https://www.autozone.com/starting-ch...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

I toggled the battery cut off switch several times seem good.
I jumped it with alligator wire with 12 volt light on no joy.
I grounded to neg post on wafco with lighted test light to the switch terminals no light.
I would think there should be power here, but I sure cannot find it.

I inspected the negative ground on wafco all good.

The 30 amp cut off fuse gives me no readings. Either post with multi tester to neg. Post wafco 0. Jumping across it with alligator no joy.

I cannot find a source of 12 volt power any where in the trailer. Is the cut off switch before wafco or after?

That is a good amount of testing. The battery disconnect switch is between the battery and the WFCO DC board. If you have no power at the terminals on the switch or auto reset circuit breaker you have to keep working your way back towards the batteries. Are you possibly missing an in-line fuse on the positive wire that might be blown? Did you clean the battery terminals and all connections really well?

Also do you have 12V power to everything when you plug in to your tow vehicle?

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

That is a good amount of testing. The battery disconnect switch is between the battery and the WFCO DC board. If you have no power at the terminals on the switch or auto reset circuit breaker you have to keep working your way back towards the batteries. Are you possibly missing an in-line fuse on the positive wire that might be blown? Did you clean the battery terminals and all connections really well?

Also do you have 12V power to everything when you plug in to your tow vehicle?

Good points- and with new batteries are the negative terminal lugs tightened enough?

[rubicon327]

Not sure what is on these terminal connections. Is this some type of coating or is it corrosion? These are especially susceptible if in front storage box with higher moisture levels. Lost all battery power in my fathers old Scamp once. Ended up being the battery connections even though they didn’t look that bad.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Not sure what is on these terminal connections. Is this some type of coating or is it corrosion? These are especially susceptible if in front storage box with higher moisture levels. Lost all battery power in my fathers old Scamp once. Ended up being the battery connections even though they didn’t look that bad.

That is a spray battery coating to prevent corrosion.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Good points- and with new batteries are the negative terminal lugs tightened enough?

I disconnected all terminals today and re installed making sure they were tight.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by camp4528

As a follow on from rubicon’s excellent starting point, I would also suggest you confirm the solution level in the batteries is correct - the plates should be covered, or “flooded”. This easy (make sure there is no possibility of sparking during your peeking - there may be hydrogen) step will help to determine if the batteries are part of the problem.

If the levels are low, you should read up on battery maintenance and safety procedures before continuing.

Fluid levels are good. This is something I regularly check.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by Rossue

I would think so. They other things I would check if that doesn't work is your ground to frame connection and the 30A fuse like this one:

https://www.autozone.com/starting-ch...hb-r/32372_0_0

Having heard of that fuse going bad on folks before it is in my spare parts bin.

Ordered two of those tonight. Just for giggles.

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Also check your reverse polarity fuses in the DC board (orange; 2 x 40A). As I understand it these can be blown and you’ll still get 12V via the converter when plugged in but not from the battery.

Those are on the output of the converter and are designed to protect the converter. Have nothing to do with protecting the battery circuits.

Charles

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by Rossue

https://www.autozone.com/starting-ch...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

The circuit breakers Bigfoot uses on the battery to fuse panel, and 7 way tow plug to 12v circuit are very much like this but have a small reset button on the side of them.

Is it possible Escape is using the manual reset variety also?

Charles

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by CharlesinGA

Those are on the output of the converter and are designed to protect the converter. Have nothing to do with protecting the battery circuits.

Charles

Thanks for the clarification. After reading the WFCO troubleshooting matrix it had me thinking that my original understanding might be incorrect.

[ghosthunter]

Well I am going to spend most my day loading for my weekend trip tomorrow. But will tinker with this issue if time.

I have checked all the battery cables at the batteries several times all are tight. Posts are clean. I hooked my batty charger up this am ,it agin showed batteries at 90%. Put on trickle charge and with in 15 minutes charger showed 100% and green full charge light came on.

So I am closing up battery compartment now.

I will hook TV to trailer this am and check lights than.

If there is another fuse or some re set some where , I can’t find it.

I might look locally for the cut of fuse ,but I have two ordered.

[Rossue]

Any automotive parts store will have it. Have you located where it is in the trailer?

[ghosthunter]

Yes next to Wafco.
Most my wiring pumps and HW tank are in dinette storage drivers side.

[Ron in BC]

Sorry if I missed it in all the dialogue but have you checked if there's power at the two "X" points to the battery negative terminal?

Ron

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

That is a good amount of testing. The battery disconnect switch is between the battery and the WFCO DC board. If you have no power at the terminals on the switch or auto reset circuit breaker you have to keep working your way back towards the batteries. Are you possibly missing an in-line fuse on the positive wire that might be blown? Did you clean the battery terminals and all connections really well?

Also do you have 12V power to everything when you plug in to your tow vehicle?

No

All traffic lights work. But no 12 volt inside trailer.

[ghosthunter]

Changed out the 30 A cut out fuse today.

No help.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

...
Also do you have 12V power to everything when you plug in to your tow vehicle?

Just to be sure - some vehicles must have the ignition switch in the "on" (engine running) position before they send power to the 12V line to the trailer.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Sorry if I missed it in all the dialogue but have you checked if there's power at the two "X" points to the battery negative terminal?

Ron

No

Best way to do it?

Multi tester or simple light tester?

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Just to be sure - some vehicles must have the ignition switch in the "on" (engine running) position before they send power to the 12V line to the trailer.

TV was running at the time.