Electrical wiring diagrams

[BuggsMcBuggs]

Very nice, I like that you moved the micro and tv circuits to the inverted panel. I personally are looking to do something similar. I am installing 270ah batteries and a 3Kw inverter. Basically, I want to run the AC on the inverter as well. I could expand the subpanel to include more circuits, and run it similarly, or I could move the transfer switch between the EMS and the WFCO AC Panel, effectively covering all circuits. Problems I envision thusly is to run the risk of the WFCO controller attempting to power the 12v and charge the battery, bad thing when on solar. That means turning off that breaker when on inverter. too confusing and easy to get it wrong. I guess I will have continue to mull.

[Mszabokc]

This might work

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfer...SABEgKGgfD_BwE

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by BuggsMcBuggs

Very nice, I like that you moved the micro and tv circuits to the inverted panel. I personally are looking to do something similar. I am installing 270ah batteries and a 3Kw inverter. Basically, I want to run the AC on the inverter as well. I could expand the subpanel to include more circuits, and run it similarly, or I could move the transfer switch between the EMS and the WFCO AC Panel, effectively covering all circuits. Problems I envision thusly is to run the risk of the WFCO controller attempting to power the 12v and charge the battery, bad thing when on solar. That means turning off that breaker when on inverter. too confusing and easy to get it wrong. I guess I will have continue to mull.

Larry: Have you considered an all-in-one inverter/charger/transfer switch feeding the sub-panel? After much mulling this is where I landed with the Xantrex Freedom XC 2000W. See my schematic here...
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post380809

[MVA]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

One of the common complaints on this forum is that Escape doesn't supply wiring diagrams for their trailers. Below are a set of wiring diagrams for the different options that Escape provides. May they be some help to you.

TDF has published electrical schematics (as observed) for different trailer configurations. I have not seen (or cannot find) similar schematics for the plumbing systems. Is there one I have missed? I am mostly interested in location of check valves for background knowledge for inevitable problem solving in the future.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by MVA

TDF has published electrical schematics (as observed) for different trailer configurations. I have not seen (or cannot find) similar schematics for the plumbing systems. Is there one I have missed? I am mostly interested in location of check valves for background knowledge for inevitable problem solving in the future.

You can request check valves be installed where you want them, if need be.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by MVA

TDF has published electrical schematics (as observed) for different trailer configurations. I have not seen (or cannot find) similar schematics for the plumbing systems. Is there one I have missed? I am mostly interested in location of check valves for background knowledge for inevitable problem solving in the future.

I doubt plumbing schematics are available. I know of a few check valves on the trailer. One is built into the pump head so the city water doesn’t push through the pump and overfill the fresh tank. The second is on the city water connection on the side of the trailer which prevents water under pressure from the pump from leaking out the connection. A third one could be on the cold water connection of the water heater to keep expanding water when heated from pushing out and pressurizing the cold side. Apparently it caused some issues with pumps and the toilet valve. The relief valve on the exterior of the water heater may weep a little bit as a result of the higher pressure on the hot side. Older trailers don’t have this last one but Escape started adding them at some point. We don’t have one and never had a problem.

[MVA]

Thanks - this is helpful.

[Centex]

Tom's wiring diagrams are an invaluable resource, they've certainly been a huge help for me as I've gone through the tedious process of dissecting and deriving the 'as-built by ETI' diagram for my own 2021 5.0 with "basic" configuration (i.e. 12volt FLA battery, no solar, no inverter).

Tom has noted that ETI's wiring is subject to 'whim and fancy' for any particular trailer build.

Here, FYI and FWIW, I offer Tom's "wiring-basic" diagram, annotated to indicate the differences I found in my 2021 August-build 5.0TA. Please note the absence of individual 30A fuses protecting the 10AWG wiring to each of the 30A (max rated) front jacks/switchgear is not an oversight on my part - they are not installed by ETI.

As always, YMMV.

Have Fun (and Thanks Again, Tom)!

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Centex

Please note the absence of individual 30A fuses protecting the 10AWG wiring to each of the 30A (max rated) front jacks/switchgear is not an oversight on my part - they are not installed by ETI.

Alan: What brand are the jacks? Are they supposed to have an inline fuse installed? Interestingly the Bulldog electric tongue jack I just bought has an auto reset circuit breaker built into the jack. Could this also be the case with these?

[MVA]

Assuming these are the Lippert 3500 power tongue jack, these are shipped with a 30A inline fuse (per Lippert - I have been researching power jacks). Odd that there wasn't a fuse on the line from the jack to the battery.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Alan: What brand are the jacks? Are they supposed to have an inline fuse installed?

The jacks are Lippert 285318. FWIW during my trailer build I was told by Linda Fedoruk at ETI that jack is currently used on the 5.0 and also as the tongue jack on all of their bumper pull models.

The Lippert downloadable Owners Manual, Installation Manual, and Service Manual all three reference the necessity of a 30A ATO fuse inline on the single-wire power connection. That fuse holder/fuse is shown as included inline on the power-wire pigtail on the jack as delivered from Lippert.

Note that in the 5.0 application the jack upper-cover with switches and light is removed / not used - the jacks being in an enclosed compartment are missing that cover assembly and 'wired direct' by ETI to the remotely-located switches in the small exterior compartment on the drivers-side of the trailer (that small compartment is also the location of the optional toilet shut-off valve). The back of the switch assembly is accessible in the drivers-side jack compartment, accessed by removing the end-panel in the propane compartment (a 'service access panel' which is held in place by screws and gasketed).

Yeah, I've removed every 'service access' panel in my 5.0 and have also removed the 'non-removable' (screwed/stapled and glued in place) panels backing the floor-level cabinets to access wire-runs over the wheel wells on both sides. The latter did result in damage to the thin 'maple' paneling (but not the framing); I have extra paneling delivered with my trailer to restore the damaged pieces. It's been an 'enlightening exploration' to say the least .

And yes, I have been Having Fun every step of the way as I get to know and document my 5.0 intimately!

PS - attached is my latest electrical mods schematic, now incorporating a DC fuse sub-panel located in the front cargo compartment for the purpose of providing feed to the jacks and several other DC powered items at the front of the trailer.

[alanerickson]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Here is a copy of my trailer's wiring diagram. I have made some improvements in Escape's wiring that I think makes it better.

For the electrical diagram in the second post in this topic, do the additional grounds/negatives affect/cause error in the current going through the shunt?
Thanks.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Centex

The jacks are Lippert 285318. FWIW during my trailer build I was told by Linda Fedoruk at ETI that jack is currently used on the 5.0 and also as the tongue jack on all of their bumper pull models.

The Lippert downloadable Owners Manual, Installation Manual, and Service Manual all three reference the necessity of a 30A ATO fuse inline on the single-wire power connection. That fuse holder/fuse is shown as included inline on the power-wire pigtail on the jack as delivered from Lippert.

Note that in the 5.0 application the jack upper-cover with switches and light is removed / not used - the jacks being in an enclosed compartment are missing that cover assembly and 'wired direct' by ETI to the remotely-located switches in the small exterior compartment on the drivers-side of the trailer (that small compartment is also the location of the optional toilet shut-off valve). The back of the switch assembly is accessible in the drivers-side jack compartment, accessed by removing the end-panel in the propane compartment (a 'service access panel' which is held in place by screws and gasketed).

Yeah, I've removed every 'service access' panel in my 5.0 and have also removed the 'non-removable' (screwed/stapled and glued in place) panels backing the floor-level cabinets to access wire-runs over the wheel wells on both sides. The latter did result in damage to the thin 'maple' paneling (but not the framing); I have extra paneling delivered with my trailer to restore the damaged pieces. It's been an 'enlightening exploration' to say the least .

And yes, I have been Having Fun every step of the way as I get to know and document my 5.0 intimately!

PS - attached is my latest electrical mods schematic, now incorporating a DC fuse sub-panel located in the front cargo compartment for the purpose of providing feed to the jacks and several other DC powered items at the front of the trailer.

I especially like the split bus AC panel to remove an AC sub panel and the separate fused DC sub panel in the front of the trailer . By the way Is the Best battery performing well? I'm looking at batteries for my upcoming build.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by alanerickson

For the electrical diagram in the second post in this topic, do the additional grounds/negatives affect/cause error in the current going through the shunt?

No.
The only connection between the battery negative terminal and anything else is through the shunt, so the shunt carries all battery current, so any other connections are irrelevant to the validity and accuracy of the current measurement (which is intended to be, and is, battery current).

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by alanerickson

For the electrical diagram in the second post in this topic, do the additional grounds/negatives affect/cause error in the current going through the shunt?
Thanks.

No, as long as there is no other connection between the shunt and the negative terminal batteries.

Oops, Brian B-P posted the correct answer while I was typing!

[tdf-texas]

Attached is an electrical drawing for those who have solar/inverter/lithium trailers.

[JimB]

Thanks it always helps to have good info.

[hugh]

Thanks tdf-texas! These diagrams were very helpful in figuring out the rats nest of wiring in my new 21C.

FWIW, I've found a couple of minor differences (so far) in the way my trailer is wired vs. the schematics above:

• There is an additional chassis ground connection directly from the batteries on the passenger side of the trailer. (my trailer has at least 3 separate DC ground connections to the chassis that I've found so far)
• There is no 40 amp fuse (as you indicated), and without that connection, the 12V / 8AWG run to the emergency brakes / tow connector is through the 50 amp thermal breaker. In the original schematic, without the 40 amp fuse, this run would not have any overcurrent protection.

[GwenL]

OK, back to the original discussion... thank you tdf for the diagrams. Very helpful as I've been looking for this for some time. One thing I discovered on our 2016 17' Escape is that the + terminal of the battery simply goes to ground (chassis). We recently replaced the original LA batteries with lithium and want to install a shunt for a battery monitor. I've spent hours trying to determine where to insert a shunt when the + terminal does not go to the distribution panel. My best guess is to run an 8 AWG wire from the + terminal over to the distribution panel. Since guessing is probably not a good idea on electrical, I thought I'd see what the forum says.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by GwenL

One thing I discovered on our 2016 17' Escape is that the + terminal of the battery simply goes to ground (chassis).

I sure hope not.