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09-08-2013, 11:34 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMLNM
No, we do not have the removable power cord. You are correct, our power cord is our supply cord....
We COULD go with the portable and then get a 30 amp extension cord to run from inside the trailer to the power pedestal...but then we would have to get into the under seat storage to see any error conditions since it does not have a remote display.
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but only if the electric shuts off which is rare, if you have electric (remember there is a 2 minute delay when hooking up) then you are fine. If no electric then yes you have to read the error code.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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09-08-2013, 11:42 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Besides that, the portable mounts on the pedestal and has the read out there on the unit. The permanent one has a read out on the unit unless you get the remote.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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09-08-2013, 12:18 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Trailer: none
Posts: 737
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We've decided we really don't want to try and cut that power cord. So, we are going to get the portable unit. And, instead of getting an extension cord and trying to keep the unit inside the trailer, we will use this:
Master Lock Lockout Hasp with Vinyl Coated Handle, 1-1/2" Inside Jaw Diameter: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
to go around the cord on the unit and then a padlock to chain it to the pedestal. It would at least slow down someone who thought it would be a neat item to have for their trailer....
Thanks for all the help...we welcome any other advice!
__________________
Fran & Dave Albuquerque, NM
2013 to 2022 had a 2008 Escape 5.0 Classic
2011 Frontier Crew Cab Short Bed Pro4x
Sold both 7/22
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09-08-2013, 12:29 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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good choice, I had a portable one for at least 3 trailers and you can always sell it to recoup part of your cost.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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09-08-2013, 05:03 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1
... Or if room around the converter you could simply undo the power cord wire from the converter go into the surge protector then out with a new wire to the converter
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Sure, but the idea was to avoid working with the connections at the converter/panel, and this approach wouldn't achieve that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
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Here's a more direct link to Progressive's site, rather than Amazon:
EMS-HW30C
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09-08-2013, 05:07 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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The portable approach is valid, but just seems to me like a big hassle to use.
I would just cut the service cord in the cabinet and install a built-in as per the originally proposed plan, but I understand not being comfortable with this work. I would rather pay someone for a fraction of one hour of labour to do the installation than deal with the portable configuration... but that's just my preference.
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09-08-2013, 05:10 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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for some reason fractions always come out to 1, whether 15 minutes or 5 minute, 1 hour labor.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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09-08-2013, 05:14 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMLNM
You can see that there is a mess of wires on and around the back of the converter - it would be a nightmare to undo all of that to get into the converter.
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I would have to check the converter/panel documentation, but I doubt there would be any reason to get into the converter from the back. My guess is that if you didn't want to cut the 30 A service cable you would disconnect the individual wires from the front (by removing the front panel), unclamp the cable (the two screws you can see flanking the cable), and pull it out. Then you would connect the round cord to the input of the EMS unit, run a piece of that flat cable from the EMS into the converter/panel, clamp it, and make the wiring connections again from the front.
The manual for the converter/panel would confirm or correct this, but it doesn't look like any of the other wiring would need to be touched.
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