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Old 08-18-2022, 09:52 AM   #1
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escape 19 door issues

I have a 2011 19 foot escape and I have an issue with the top hinge side scraping into the fiberglass body. I have replaced the hinges but that has not resolved the problem. The cut is about 2 inches long and about 1/16 of an inch deep. Has anybody had similar experiences?
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Old 08-18-2022, 10:09 AM   #2
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Has this just started or been in existence since 2011?
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Old 08-18-2022, 10:18 AM   #3
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Just noticed it in June of this year. I sent a pic to Escape so hopefully they can help me with this issue.
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Old 08-18-2022, 10:28 AM   #4
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If I understand your situation correctly, the edge flange of the door is making contact with the trailer shell.

If that's the case onr solution might be to put a shim under the hinge to hold the door slightly away from the shell. Can't tell from the photo.

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Old 08-18-2022, 10:37 AM   #5
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Ya I was thinking about shimming the top hinge to see if that would help. I stuck another piece of foam stripping behind the top corner door molding and that seems to of helped keep it away from the body but that is just a short term fix.
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Old 08-18-2022, 10:55 AM   #6
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Some fixes

A shim is your first and best remedy. Marine-Tex is a white, 2 part epoxy that could be used to repair the gel coat damage. It is available at marine chandlery outlets or online. It comes in small quantities. Search for techniques for use, or contact me. I've used in on an old Casita I once had. It blends in pretty good; not a perfect color match, but not noticeable.
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Old 08-18-2022, 01:22 PM   #7
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I have had issues with the rubber gasket material compressing over time. Particularly where one steps on entry and exit. I found a replacement that I cemented into place using black automotive door gasket glue. Would not that keep the door away from the body?
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Old 08-18-2022, 01:29 PM   #8
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Hi that is what I was just told by escape that the gasket was worn out. My problem is finding a replacement. Where did you get yours from?
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Old 08-18-2022, 03:15 PM   #9
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Hi that is what I was just told by escape that the gasket was worn out. My problem is finding a replacement. Where did you get yours from?
The molded doors have been a notorious poor fit over the years. One solution some folks used was to use a piece of foam backer material in the existing gasket to "puff" it out a little for better contact.

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Old 08-18-2022, 03:44 PM   #10
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I cut a small piece, enough to get a profile view and visited an auto supply store. If you are buying cement be sure to get black as some will inevitably seep out. The foam backer may also work short term. Low on my list would be a hair dryer and reshape the gasket material.

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Hi that is what I was just told by escape that the gasket was worn out. My problem is finding a replacement. Where did you get yours from?
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Old 08-18-2022, 04:14 PM   #11
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Thanks for all the feedback. Definitely going to try the ideas given. Everyone has been a great help.
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Old 08-18-2022, 04:19 PM   #12
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What I used

I restored a 1996 16' Casita a while back, and used an auto parts store (Auto zone??, I think) off the shelf replacement. Worked well and fit the bill, and that rig also had an aircraft style door. There's a replacement out there.
McMaster-Carr may also carry what you need. They have dang near everything. Look through their online catalog. The paper version used to be about 4" thick (10 cm) thick.
A veritable Bible of industrial supplies.
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Old 08-18-2022, 04:27 PM   #13
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Thank you, I will go online and check them out.
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Old 08-18-2022, 05:01 PM   #14
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In keeping with the door issues part of this thread I have over the last year noticed the door latch mechanism on my old 19 had begun to act muley. I don't want to find myself suddenly locked out - or in. Others have reported resorting to replacing the entire unit. Instead of doing that I blasted the thing with Blaster High-performance white lithium grease. All is now back to smooth.
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Old 08-18-2022, 05:30 PM   #15
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My issue with that door mechanism is in closing. It seems to take more effort to close it. It can be a pushed closed door or it can be slammed. Perhaps slammed has too strong a connotation, swung hard sounds better. It is getting harder to do, especially from the inside.

My issue seems to manifest itself on the strike plate. The plate shows more wear and almost seems to be thinner and a bit sharp. That is what shows, I am concerned that the source of the problem maybe in the latch and locking mechanism, the strike plate is a symptom, not the issue.

I had best results putting some grease on the strike plate, but short lived. Spraying a lubricant inside the locking mechanism did not help. I have not taken it apart. I do not have a clue what to look for.

Any help for Myron and I?
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Old 08-18-2022, 05:38 PM   #16
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My lock tumbler fell out of my door mechanism so not wanting to be stranded somewhere I went to a local rv dealer and got an exact match to the old one. Never had a tumbler fall out before.
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Old 08-18-2022, 07:19 PM   #17
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Door Issues

I've had some door issues with our 8-year-old 19 as well. The seal around the door has some places where it doesn't make intimate contact with the body of the trailer. It's a very narrow opening such bugs can't get in, but light does. I just figure it helps ventilation!
Our locking mechanism no longer engages easily. Sometimes I have to almost slam the door to get it to engage. I really need to take a closer look to see what's going on. I'm concerned other learned folks here haven't already figured it out.
I have since day one kept a torex screwdriver in the trailer should the lock mechanism fail in the locked position whilst I'm IN the trailer. I have the means to remove the lock to get out.
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Old 08-18-2022, 10:22 PM   #18
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Worn plastic bushings in the original door hinges can cause door fit issue. You can notice it by your trim tape not lining up. It also can cause door latching issues.
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Old 08-18-2022, 10:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I just figure it helps ventilation!
Except when it's cold out it's view a little bit more negatively.

That's primarily why in the past folks have shimmed the seal with backer rod.

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Old 08-19-2022, 09:24 AM   #20
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2014 5 TA Door Catch Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie View Post
My issue with that door mechanism is in closing. It seems to take more effort to close it. It can be a pushed closed door or it can be slammed. Perhaps slammed has too strong a connotation, swung hard sounds better. It is getting harder to do, especially from the inside.

My issue seems to manifest itself on the strike plate. The plate shows more wear and almost seems to be thinner and a bit sharp. That is what shows, I am concerned that the source of the problem maybe in the latch and locking mechanism, the strike plate is a symptom, not the issue.

I had best results putting some grease on the strike plate, but short lived. Spraying a lubricant inside the locking mechanism did not help. I have not taken it apart. I do not have a clue what to look for.

Any help for Myron and I?
My trailer had the same problem. I removed the striker plate and using a vise and lock pliers I very slightly opened it up - made it less aggressive. Before I did that, I traced the old profile onto paper- just in case I over did things.

The adjustment worked well, the door had always been difficult to close, and now it's one pull instead of having to slam it.
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