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Old 06-23-2018, 10:32 PM   #1
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Angry Fastway E2 problem

Escape set up our Fastway wdh/sway control hitch for our 19’ with Highlander tug when we picked up the trailer last fall. Noticed on second long trip that the “L” brackets that support the bars had slipped to odd angles. Took off the L brackets, straightened and TIGHTENED clamps, put L brackets back. Next trip, slipped again. Read Fastway’s troubleshooting guide. Said to remove L brackets, and flip clamp bar on inside of frame as it could be bowed a little causing slippage. They said to torque bolts holding clamp at 68 pound-feet and 75 pf for nuts holding L brackets. I added 3-5 pounds for each hoping more is better. Driver’s side slipped yet again within 60 miles. Flummoxed. Any ideas out there?

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Old 06-23-2018, 11:03 PM   #2
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Oops. Just found same issue in two old threads. Shoulda searched first.
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:45 AM   #3
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Is your bottom bolt tight to the bottom of the frame? From you pic, it looks like there is some space between the bolt and the frame. The bolts should be tight to the top and bottom of the frame to prevent slippage.
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:43 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by goalie39 View Post
Is your bottom bolt tight to the bottom of the frame? From you pic, it looks like there is some space between the bolt and the frame. The bolts should be tight to the top and bottom of the frame to prevent slippage.
That's a good point. There are 5 holes on the plates. The 2 at the top are 1/2" apart, the 3 at the bottom are 1" apart. By using the correct holes, this accommodates nearly any frame size in 1/2" increments. If the installer didn't do it right, you might have a 1/2" gap that lets the entire assembly cock sideways under pressure.
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Old 06-25-2018, 05:12 PM   #5
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Camping at the moment. As I don’t think this is a safety issue, I may put it off till we get home Thursday, though I do have the needed tools with me. Thanks to all who have posted to my thread and previous threads on this Issue. I will try to remember to post what action I took and whether successful or continued frustration.
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:06 PM   #6
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Fastway pin issue.

I had the same issue until I replaced the L-pins with the new design. You can order from Fastway or many camper places today have the new design. Once you remove, straighten, and torque the
L-brackets, use the new pins and all should be fine.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...6-a-12245.html
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:19 PM   #7
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I have the new L pins! Got them on amazon. Haven’t used them yet and think I will wait until I straighten the brackets again before using them. The new Fastway parts sound interesting, too, especially the bolts with partial threading. I have threading grooves worn into my frame now.
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:41 PM   #8
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When I first saw this post from ColoradoSwany I thought: "poor guy, he must have installed his weight distribution hitch incorrectly." Mine was working fine. This last trip I had lots of clunking on the corners as the brackets flipped back and forth. Suitably chastised, I re-read this post and the one predating it. I searched Fastway, Amazon, etrailer, etc. for the new pins and L-Brackets. Everything I found looked just like what I've got. The earlier post from Gelayne shows new pins but these are not Fastway but Equalizer. I've found my own solution: a piece of 1/2" copper pipe over the top bolt and a couple of nuts threaded onto the bottom bolt. They're installed but not tested yet.
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Old 08-25-2018, 07:14 PM   #9
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Fastway and Equal-i-zer/Progress Mfg are one and the same.

I didn't see it specifically mentioned, but they make plastic pads that go over the L bracket to quiet them down. I had them on my Equal-i-zer and they help. Supposedly they fit both the Fastway and the Equal-i-zer L brackets.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...5-01-5150.html
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Old 08-25-2018, 07:28 PM   #10
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I have been using the new L pins AND I shopped at my local Ace Hardware and found a U shaped aluminum channel about 5’ long with 1/2” inner diameter. I cut 4 two inch pieces from this, fit the pieces between the bracket bolts and trailer frame. Two round trips totaling ~440 miles and no slippage! Repainted the scraped frame ares. All appears to be fine.
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:53 PM   #11
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Who ever installed that hitch should never drill holes through the frame, The holes can get elongated and cause the frame to crack. One bolt should be above the frame and one below.
That's a hi stress area and those holes wont help matters.
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Old 08-26-2018, 12:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Who ever installed that hitch should never drill holes through the frame, The holes can get elongated and cause the frame to crack. One bolt should be above the frame and one below.
That's a hi stress area and those holes wont help matters.
I think (although I'm not sure) that the two bolts you see in the middle of the bracket don't go through the frame, but hold one part of the bracket to the other, as in the photo in post #6 above. There do appear to be bolts both above and below the frame rail that clamp it in place.
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devil Dog View Post
Who ever installed that hitch should never drill holes through the frame, The holes can get elongated and cause the frame to crack. One bolt should be above the frame and one below.
That's a hi stress area and those holes wont help matters.
No holes through the frame though I did consider welding the bracket to the frame. If my fix doesn't work then I might have to research what effect welding would have at that location.
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Fastway and Equal-i-zer/Progress Mfg are one and the same.

I didn't see it specifically mentioned, but they make plastic pads that go over the L bracket to quiet them down. I had them on my Equal-i-zer and they help. Supposedly they fit both the Fastway and the Equal-i-zer L brackets.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...5-01-5150.html
I had the same problem. Took the L brackets off, switched them around, retorqued bolts, and still one L bracket moved again. So I repeated all of the above and added the new L pins and the plastic pads. It has been happy traveling for thousands of miles since. The new L pins also do not have the cotter pin retainers so I keep the bark on my knuckles now.
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Old 08-26-2018, 09:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devil Dog View Post
Who ever installed that hitch should never drill holes through the frame, The holes can get elongated and cause the frame to crack. One bolt should be above the frame and one below.
That's a hi stress area and those holes wont help matters.
Rbryan4 is correct. No holes through the frame.
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Old 08-26-2018, 09:31 AM   #16
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Rbryan4 is correct. No holes through the frame.
Thanks for confirming what I thought. I haven't really seen the Fastway brackets up close before, but the appearance of the two center bolts can fool you into thinking they go all the way through.
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:59 AM   #17
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This thread has given me a great idea, how to make a 4 and 3/8" hitch work on a 4" frame. I wanted to order a new Andersen hitch for the new Escape and go with the 4 3/8" mounting bars.(kit # 3343) The universal bars 3/4/5/6 are just too long and hang down too low. I spoke with Jason at Andersen and he suggested 2 alternatives, either insert a shim or order the new style universal bracket(kit#3369) that mount above the frame. The universal idea does not appeal but using a piece of copper pipe on the bolts, a simple but effective shim can then be made.
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Old 08-26-2018, 02:31 PM   #18
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No holes through the frame though I did consider welding the bracket to the frame. If my fix doesn't work then I might have to research what effect welding would have at that location.
Ok, I see them. Those round headed carage bolts Are probably only grade 2 and maybe stretching. A higher grade bolt may help.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:22 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Devil Dog View Post
Ok, I see them. Those round headed carage bolts Are probably only grade 2 and maybe stretching. A higher grade bolt may help.
I don't think the E2 uses any carriage bolts - the installation instructions clearly show hex-head bolts, and carriage bolts wouldn't work in the round holes of the bracket. Mike, what you're seeing as the smooth round head of a carriage bolt is actually just the centre of the flat top of a hex-head bolt installed in the outside link plate, visible through a hole in the L-bracket.

The E2 manual says that the clamping bolts are
Quote:
3/8"-16 X 2-1/2" HEX BOLT GRADE 5
To install the E2 brackets (or the similar Equal-i-zer brackets), the inside and outside link plates are clamped around the frame (with hex-head bolts from the outside and nuts on the inside), then the L-bracket is attached to the studs protruding from the outside link plate with the two self-locking nuts visible in the photo.
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Old 08-26-2018, 04:32 PM   #20
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I think I need new glasses . Now I'm thinking U-bolts .
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