Fastway E2 Question

[Videocrafters]

Escape set up and installed my E2 hitch for my trailer. I gave them an accurate height for my hitch on the truck and they did the work.
After connecting my trailer to the hitch and with the bars installed the front of the trailer is one half bubble tipped down.
Should I be concerned? I would move the hitch one hole higher myself but I do not own a 250 foot pound torques wrench.
Any thoughts?

[Johnspierce]

It is generally accepted that the front of a trailer should be about 1 inch lower than the back or about 2°.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Johnspierce

It is generally accepted that the front of a trailer should be about 1 inch lower than the back or about 2°.

That's appropriate for a single-axle trailer (for which nose-down increases weight on the hitch and improves stability), perhaps not for tandem-axle trailer (for which nose-down decreases weight on the hitch and reduces stability).

[Videocrafters]

The other problem I am having is that I cannot disconnect the hitch with the jack all the way up. In order to disconnect the hitch I have to jack up the trailer around 15 turns before the hitch will release. I'm thinking the ball on the hitch needs to be moved 1 hole higher to level out the trailer and hopefully to solve the problem disconnecting the hitch.

[LarryLSB]

Originally Posted by Videocrafters

The other problem I am having is that I cannot disconnect the hitch with the jack all the way up. In order to disconnect the hitch I have to jack up the trailer around 15 turns before the hitch will release. I'm thinking the ball on the hitch needs to be moved 1 hole higher to level out the trailer and hopefully to solve the problem disconnecting the hitch.

Originally Posted by Videocrafters

Escape set up and installed my E2 hitch for my trailer. I gave them an accurate height for my hitch on the truck and they did the work.
After connecting my trailer to the hitch and with the bars installed the front of the trailer is one half bubble tipped down.
Should I be concerned? I would move the hitch one hole higher myself but I do not own a 250 foot pound torques wrench.
Any thoughts?

Are you talking about the levels that are mounted on the trailer itself? I wouldn't go by those. In order to gauge the trailer being level, you would need to be on level ground. I suggest reviewing the E2 you tube videos that Fastway has on their website for setup. As far as disconnecting the hitch itself from the trailer, I go thru the same process, the hitch won't release at the point my bars come off the L brackets, so I lower to release pressure. Good reason to get an electric jack! It is a good workout!

Larry

[Johnspierce]

If you do need to change the WDH to a different height, I'm sure your local U-Haul dealer would have the appropriate torque wrench to change the positioning of the hitch.

What you need to do is measure the height difference front to rear. If putting the hitch on the next notch up puts it in a nose-high position, then that would be bad of course; as Brian said, completely level is best for a double axle trailer, but slightly low is better than slightly high in the front.

I would probably use a tape measure from the ground to the belly band at the front and rear of the trailer when it's hooked up to determine if it's high/level/low.

[flynfrfun]

Originally Posted by Johnspierce

...What you need to do is measure the height difference front to rear. If putting the hitch on the next notch up puts it in a nose-high position, then that would be bad of course; as Brian said, completely level is best for a double axle trailer, but slightly low is better than slightly high in the front.

I would probably use a tape measure from the ground to the belly band at the front and rear of the trailer when it's hooked up to determine if it's high/level/low.

The above is what I do when checking my trailer. It is important to find a good smooth flat spot to do this. In my case, I tow the trailer to a nearby Costco that has a big smooth paved parking lot.

[MVA]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

That's appropriate for a single-axle trailer (for which nose-down increases weight on the hitch and improves stability), perhaps not for tandem-axle trailer (for which nose-down decreases weight on the hitch and reduces stability).

Brian,

I have an E2 hitch that was installed at ETI by Tammy's Dad when we purchased the trailer. With the standard shank in the E2 hitch kit, he installed the trunnion head at the lowest point. For our F150, the E19 trailer is still about 1"-2" nose up from level. I have towed on many roads (Interstate at 75 mph, two lane highway passed by tracker/trailer) with no sway. Given the current supply chain issues, the E2 hitch shank part to lower the trunnion head is not available to level the trailer. I am actually confused why I do not experience any sway. Why does the tandem-axle help in this situation? The other consideration is that the F150 has an anti-sway control built in the towing package. Apparently the truck applies braking to individual wheels to reduce sway when the vehicle accelerometers detect sway. There is no driver display that indicates when this is happening.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MVA

For our F150, the E19 trailer is still about 1"-2" nose up from level. I have towed on many roads (Interstate at 75 mph, two lane highway passed by tracker/trailer) with no sway. Given the current supply chain issues, the E2 hitch shank part to lower the trunnion head is not available to level the trailer. I am actually confused why I do not experience any sway. Why does the tandem-axle help in this situation?

A properly configured trailer, properly loaded, doesn't have a sway problem when sitting level. Raising the nose a little bit in a tandem like this (especially with the Torflex suspension which has no ability to equalize load between the axles) shifts a bit more load to the rearward axle, effectively making the hitch-to-axle distance longer and thus the trailer more stable.

Originally Posted by MVA

The other consideration is that the F150 has an anti-sway control built in the towing package. Apparently the truck applies braking to individual wheels to reduce sway when the vehicle accelerometers detect sway. There is no driver display that indicates when this is happening.

That's an interesting observation. I'm sure that most people drive too fast in poor road conditions (when not towing) because they "feel" that the vehicle is under good control... because they don't realize how much the stability control system is doing for them. When the vehicle is pushed too far and the electronic systems can't do enough, the results are painful. The "skidding car" warning light flashes to tell the driver that the stability control system is taking action, so they can know to slow down, but I doubt that's really effective. A trailer sway control system could reasonably be expected to do the same thing, and the 2021 Ford F-150 owner's manual says this:

If the trailer begins to sway, the stability control lamp flashes and the message Trailer Sway Reduce Speed appears in the information display.

So it appears that if you are not getting that message, the trailer sway control is not needing to take action, and your trailer is just stable so there's nothing the truck has to fix.

[Gasguy]

How much does your vehicle suspension sag after connecting trailer? You may want to look into overload springs or other enhancements rather than raising hitch. I would suggest getting all your axle weights & measurements for hitch setup re worked. Our Tacoma had excessive sag with rear springs.
We added a add a leaf overload spring and a Summo Spring bump stop for suspension sag corrections along with further fine tuning of the e2 trunion bars. The fender measurement for hitch set up gets you in the ball park, actually weighing the axles for adjustment was best in my opinion.

[Illinois Joe]

Originally Posted by MVA

Brian,

I have an E2 hitch that was installed at ETI by Tammy's Dad when we purchased the trailer. With the standard shank in the E2 hitch kit, he installed the trunnion head at the lowest point. For our F150, the E19 trailer is still about 1"-2" nose up from level. I have towed on many roads (Interstate at 75 mph, two lane highway passed by tracker/trailer) with no sway. Given the current supply chain issues, the E2 hitch shank part to lower the trunnion head is not available to level the trailer. I am actually confused why I do not experience any sway. Why does the tandem-axle help in this situation? The other consideration is that the F150 has an anti-sway control built in the towing package. Apparently the truck applies braking to individual wheels to reduce sway when the vehicle accelerometers detect sway. There is no driver display that indicates when this is happening.

You are correct, hitch shank supply is an issue but I was able to recently buy a Fasway e2 92-02-4214 6" drop hitch shank for my F150. I think they are starting to get them out again so maybe try again. I was starting to get nervous because I needed it for July.

[MVA]

Illinois Joe - thanks - Since you also have a F150 this is helpful. The 92-02-4214 seemed to be the correct level of drop needed.

Gasguy - the rear spring compression is minor. The issues is the trailer coupler level vs the unloaded F150 4x4 hitch height. I called Fastway and they said that the shank included in the E2 kit does not allow for lower riding trailer to be level. BTW - I am surprised that your Tacoma rear springs sagged even with the E2 hitch adjusted.

[Gasguy]

�� the TRDTacoma rear springs are notoriously weak. We already had the truck, 2016 model when we got the trailer in 2018. We used to tow a pop up trailer so no issues with that.
We will upsize with our next rig to a F150 or Tundra ina few years. Happy camping !

[MVA]

Originally Posted by Gasguy

�� the TRDTacoma rear springs are notoriously weak. We already had the truck, 2016 model when we got the trailer in 2018. We used to tow a pop up trailer so no issues with that.
We will upsize with our next rig to a F150 or Tundra ina few years. Happy camping !

Thanks! and apparently get a low drop shank for your E2!