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08-23-2019, 09:47 PM
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#1
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
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Framing under a 21 bed
5 years down the road the Scotch-Lock crimps on a 12V drop option under the bed - installed by ETI - vibrated/aged and stopped working.
Had to remove the top of the bed platform to get to that spot. Found the flipover locks had both unfolded and they'd vibrated open.
Found it interesting that the only driver side bed support is really the perimeter rails glassed into the shell. Across the bed are "built up" T cross section sticks and the plywood top is held down by about 30 screws laid in at a 45 degree angle. Supports end about 8 inches from the edge of the platform.
Fortunately, all the other Scotch-locks still look good and the clippy locks things are intact. I wrapped all of them with electrical tape.
__________________
Charlie Y
Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
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08-23-2019, 10:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1
Found it interesting that the only driver side bed support is really the perimeter rails glassed into the shell. Across the bed are "built up" T cross section sticks and the plywood top is held down by about 30 screws laid in at a 45 degree angle. Supports end about 8 inches from the edge of the platform.
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I think all the 21' were done that way. Below are pics of my before and after of the bed rail redo. All the wood joints were done using biscuits and wood glue. Wiring was cleaned up at the same time.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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08-24-2019, 12:12 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
I think all the 21' were done that way. Below are pics of my before and after of the bed rail redo. All the wood joints were done using biscuits and wood glue. Wiring was cleaned up at the same time.
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Nice work Tom . I think Ron found the same in the 19 , 2014 . I don’t even want to look at our 19 . Pat
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08-24-2019, 12:32 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: palo alto, California
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic #7
Posts: 314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
I think all the 21' were done that way. Below are pics of my before and after of the bed rail redo. All the wood joints were done using biscuits and wood glue. Wiring was cleaned up at the same time.
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Nice work. I like your flooring choice as well.
II have this as a ToDo on my list as well. I want to add a bit more protection to the Water Heater area from items in the storage area
__________________
7-7-7 Our Marriage
2013 Escape 21 Classic
2014 Sequoia
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08-24-2019, 09:44 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Thanks everyone for the nice words!
I fixed the frame because I'm a little overweight (wife laughs) and the bed plywood would creak when I slept on the outside wall side. After pulling the plywood, I understood why.
Of course, I went a little overboard and made it stronger than it probably had to be. Below is a pic of the bracing for the slats. I cut notches next to the wall for the wiring to pass and put wire loom tubing on the wire runs to protect them from accidental snags getting things in/out of the under bed storage.
All the wood has been coated with urethane varnish to seal it - that area gets moist and I didn't want to deal with mold.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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08-24-2019, 10:05 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
I think all the 21' were done that way. Below are pics of my before and after of the bed rail redo. All the wood joints were done using biscuits and wood glue. Wiring was cleaned up at the same time.
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I did something similar using dowel pins ,trim screws and wood glue
The main cross brace under our bed was cracked due to the way the screws were installed at the factory . Everytime we sat on the bed you could hear wood cracking so I replaced the defective brace plus added an additional cross brace toward the foot of the bed.
The 3M wire connectors used by Escape have a bad habit of popping open when subject to vibration . If you complete the splice and then wrap the 3M connector with several layers of 3M tape or a tyrap , the flap will stay in place .
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08-24-2019, 05:37 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sherburne, New York
Trailer: 2016 21 ft escape
Posts: 400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
Thanks everyone for the nice words!
I fixed the frame because I'm a little overweight (wife laughs) and the bed plywood would creak when I slept on the outside wall side. After pulling the plywood, I understood why.
Of course, I went a little overboard and made it stronger than it probably had to be. Below is a pic of the bracing for the slats. I cut notches next to the wall for the wiring to pass and put wire loom tubing on the wire runs to protect them from accidental snags getting things in/out of the under bed storage.
All the wood has been coated with urethane varnish to seal it - that area gets moist and I didn't want to deal with mold.
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Really nice job. Now I will have to check mine. Although I have never found it to be moist under there. .??
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08-24-2019, 05:59 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake930
Really nice job. Now I will have to check mine. Although I have never found it to be moist under there. .??
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We store our folding chairs, awning mat, etc. in the under bed storage area. It seems that all of this stuff may be wet when we are ready to leave and no way to dry it before storing.
Also, the under bed area runs cooler than the rest of the trailer when we are using the heater. Moisture in the air likes to condense there. We have had condensation on the vinyl walls run down and collect on the bed frame rails. In the before pic, you can see a spot of black on the headboard rail caused by wall condensation.
By treating all the wood with Mold-Care and sealing with urethane, moisture is no longer a worry.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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