Gate valves

[JAYD]

Has anyone had a problem swapping out the gate valves? I needed a new drain cap and was impressed with the quality, so I decided to swap out the gate valves which had been leaking occasionally. After removing the originals I haven't been able to fit the new ones. (Same width)

[AK snowbiker]

Originally Posted by JAYD

Has anyone had a problem swapping out the gate valves? I needed a new drain cap and was impressed with the quality, so I decided to swap out the gate valves which had been leaking occasionally. After removing the originals I haven't been able to fit the new ones. (Same width)

The better half cut a corner a little sharp, caught a log and cracked the housing on the black tank valve. A couple of wraps of duct tape worked until I replaced the cracked valve with one from Valterra. It was a PITA. Not a whole lot of room between the drain pipes and the gaskets would twist every time I slid in the new waste gate. A couple of beers and a few choice curses and the gate valve is leak free. A fifteen minute job took me well over a hour. Scott

[AK snowbiker]

Originally Posted by Old Skool

The better half cut a corner a little sharp, caught a log and cracked the housing on the black tank valve. A couple of wraps of duct tape worked until I replaced the cracked valve with one from Valterra. It was a PITA. Not a whole lot of room between the drain pipes and the gaskets would twist every time I slid in the new waste gate. A couple of beers and a few choice curses and the gate valve is leak free. A fifteen minute job took me well over a hour. Scott

*edit*: I ended up using two of those really thin flexible cutting boards on each side of the valve gate to hold the gaskets in place with some dish soap on the outside surface and slid the gate into place. There isn't a whole lot of wiggle room. Scott

[JAYD]

I'm not even that close. The pipes seemed to shift when I removed the old valves, I tried to spread them using wedges(gently) but I still need @ 1/2 " to even get it started. I put a call into ETI but haven't heard back-the flexible cutting boards are a great idea if I can figure out how to spread the pipes. Thanks for your help.

[AK snowbiker]

Originally Posted by JAYD

I'm not even that close. The pipes seemed to shift when I removed the old valves, I tried to spread them using wedges(gently) but I still need @ 1/2 " to even get it started. I put a call into ETI but haven't heard back-the flexible cutting boards are a great idea if I can figure out how to spread the pipes. Thanks for your help.

It is a very tight fit. After I removed the cracked housing I too was 1/2" shy. I had to use a a lot of force to spread the gap and slide the replacement in. Replacing that valve is the hardest, most frustrating repair that I have done so far on the trailer. Scott

[JAYD]

I'll keep trying and let you know how it goes. Thanks Scott.

[Devil Dog]

There is a up stream side and a down side to the sewer/gray gate valves .
Our sewer valve was back wards from ET . OOpps.

[padlin]

FWIW, I cut the pipe at the back of the black valve, replaced the back part of the valve, which is what was broken in my case, that was a female with a male and connected the 2 with a rubber coupling. I cut the coupling to size so the pipe connected to the valve assm. Between trimming the pipe and the flex in the coupler, I had no issues reassembling it.

[JAYD]

Spoke to Reese last night. He reassured me I wouldn't damage the pipe. I installed the drain and the 3" gate to the flange and used composite wedges to spread the gap for the 11/2' gate. I did use the thin cutting boards to keep the gaskets in place. The valve slid in. Anti-freeze in the p-traps and we're ready for winter.
Thanks all for the help.

[Mike Lewis]

Note to self: do not mess with those gate valves unless absolutely necessary.

[Vermilye]

Another method for holding the gaskets in place is plumbers Silicon Grease. It also provides lubrication for the slides.