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Old 05-25-2020, 02:53 PM   #1
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Generator Cooling

I want to make my Honda 2200 as difficult to steal as possible when I take it out with me.

I have a steel box similar to a truck bed tool box that I can fit the gen and my extended run tank in. I would place the box just in front of the tailgate of my truck.

I'm sure it would overheat if I simply ran it inside the closed box so I'm thinking, cut an opening in one end of the box for an exhaust fan and drilling some holes in the other end for circulation. I can put another fan here to pull air in if necessary.

I would place the generator exhaust against the exhaust fan so it would push the exhaust heat out while pulling fresh air in the other end. I know air cooled gens are installed in rv's but I've never looked to see how they were set up to move air about.

I can easily secure the box in the truck.

Anyone done anything like this? Thoughts?
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Old 05-25-2020, 03:28 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by 75thRanger View Post
I want to make my Honda 2200 as difficult to steal as possible when I take it out with me.

I have a steel box similar to a truck bed tool box that I can fit the gen and my extended run tank in. I would place the box just in front of the tailgate of my truck.

I'm sure it would overheat if I simply ran it inside the closed box so I'm thinking, cut an opening in one end of the box for an exhaust fan and drilling some holes in the other end for circulation. I can put another fan here to pull air in if necessary.

I would place the generator exhaust against the exhaust fan so it would push the exhaust heat out while pulling fresh air in the other end. I know air cooled gens are installed in rv's but I've never looked to see how they were set up to move air about.

I can easily secure the box in the truck.

Anyone done anything like this? Thoughts?
I have a 3000, I just lock it in the bed of the truck with a cable lock. Use the tie down loop in the truck bed and the handle of the generator. I lock mine right to the 5th wheel rail.
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Old 05-25-2020, 04:27 PM   #3
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The 2000 and 2200 have plastic handles, I put one of these on mine to prevent an easy cut and run.
https://www.amazon.com/Yoursme-Gener.../dp/B07B1Z27TZ

Could you open the box lid when running the generator and add a couple cross bars with pad locks to prevent anyone from removing the generator?
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:03 PM   #4
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I've designed sound shields for generators and air compressors and if care is taken enclosing them in a box isn't a problem.

If the box isn't intended to be a sound shield then the job is easier because one serving as a sound shield requires baffled intakes etc. which make cooling more critical.

Your plan sounds fine. I'd, and do, put a thermometer inside and monitor the temperature. Be aware that the cooling flow of air may not be uniform and some area might run quite hot. For example I've seen plastic parts on a fuel filter melt and cause a fuel leak. So, just monitor it for the first test run and all should be good.

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Old 05-25-2020, 05:14 PM   #5
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I locked mine inside the cap just inside the tailgate with the tailgate and cap locked. I did not remove it to run and never had an issue, just opened the cap door. Of course I don't live in TX.


I used a Python cable lock to run around the unit and thru the handle, with a separate cable lock to the tie down.
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:34 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Thane View Post
The 2000 and 2200 have plastic handles, I put one of these on mine to prevent an easy cut and run.
https://www.amazon.com/Yoursme-Gener.../dp/B07B1Z27TZ

Could you open the box lid when running the generator and add a couple cross bars with pad locks to prevent anyone from removing the generator?
I've considered opening the box about 3/4 or so and cut a couple of straps to go between the box lid and front. Slotting the strap ends to fit over a standard padlock ring. That would leave plenty of space for air but circulation might be a problem
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:42 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
I've designed sound shields for generators and air compressors and if care is taken enclosing them in a box isn't a problem.

If the box isn't intended to be a sound shield then the job is easier because one serving as a sound shield requires baffled intakes etc. which make cooling more critical.

Your plan sounds fine. I'd, and do, put a thermometer inside and monitor the temperature. Be aware that the cooling flow of air may not be uniform and some area might run quite hot. For example I've seen plastic parts on a fuel filter melt and cause a fuel leak. So, just monitor it for the first test run and all should be good.

Ron
Good suggestion! I can use a standard temp transmitter and remote receiver to do it.

There are 3 air intakes on the gen, or so the manual says. Btm and side and end. If I leave each side of gen equal distance from box it should be ok. Get my stuff together and do a test run.

Have to find out what the temp parameters are.
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Old 05-26-2020, 07:57 AM   #8
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I'm sure it would overheat if I simply ran it inside the closed box so I'm thinking, cut an opening in one end of the box for an exhaust fan and drilling some holes in the other end for circulation. I can put another fan here to pull air in if necessary.

I would place the generator exhaust against the exhaust fan so it would push the exhaust heat out while pulling fresh air in the other end. I know air cooled gens are installed in rv's but I've never looked to see how they were set up to move air about.
No doubt the generator will quickly overheat in a closed box and build up dangerous fumes. I have some makeshift polystyrene insulated panels that I can assemble around 3 sides and top of the generator with some gaps for airflow. One time it was very warm out and they were assembled too tight and the generator got very hot.

The 2000i and 2200i have a 12V, 8.3A unregulated output. I have wondered if using an enclosure if one could run a high quality DC fan (or two) from this output and not worry about powering an AC fan off the gen. Even if you needed an inline voltage regulator that is no big deal. Something similar to what the guys are using to protect their Maxx Fans from over-voltage could be used. I used these high quality fans for my refrigerator condenser cooling project...ball bearings, 116 CFM, quiet, only 0.46A, rated for wet location and a max 158F. They also happen to be on clearance right now.
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...e-Axial-31CC88
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Old 05-26-2020, 08:36 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Thane View Post
The 2000 and 2200 have plastic handles, I put one of these on mine to prevent an easy cut and run.
https://www.amazon.com/Yoursme-Gener.../dp/B07B1Z27TZ

Could you open the box lid when running the generator and add a couple cross bars with pad locks to prevent anyone from removing the generator?
Thanks for the reminder! Forgot about these devices. I put one on a 3000 I had about 15 or so years ago. Ordered one today.
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Old 05-26-2020, 08:50 AM   #10
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No doubt the generator will quickly overheat in a closed box and build up dangerous fumes. I have some makeshift polystyrene insulated panels that I can assemble around 3 sides and top of the generator with some gaps for airflow. One time it was very warm out and they were assembled too tight and the generator got very hot.

The 2000i and 2200i have a 12V, 8.3A unregulated output. I have wondered if using an enclosure if one could run a high quality DC fan (or two) from this output and not worry about powering an AC fan off the gen. Even if you needed an inline voltage regulator that is no big deal. Something similar to what the guys are using to protect their Maxx Fans from over-voltage could be used. I used these high quality fans for my refrigerator condenser cooling project...ball bearings, 116 CFM, quiet, only 0.46A, rated for wet location and a max 158F. They also happen to be on clearance right now.
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...e-Axial-31CC88
I don't have the DC option with my gens. Mine are the 2000iTa and 2200iTa. I think I have the characters(iTA) correct.

If I use the AC on the gen to power fan(s) I'm going to have to be cautious of the fan power usage as the only time I would plan on using the gen is for the Air.

Have to look for a 'thrifty' fan that will do the job. That fan you provided the link for looks good. I'll explore for a DC source I can use.

There are rechargeable battery fans around. Might be an option.

All my simple projects have a tendency to get complicated.
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Old 05-26-2020, 08:57 AM   #11
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If the box is to contain only the generator, and only for theft prevention, I would cut out the sides of the box. Make the cutouts as large as possible without being large enough to get the generator out. Make it a cage rather than a box.
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Old 05-26-2020, 09:35 AM   #12
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Lock it down in the bed of the truck: Generator security mount systems
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Old 05-26-2020, 02:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 75thRanger View Post
I don't have the DC option with my gens. Mine are the 2000iTa and 2200iTa. I think I have the characters(iTA) correct.

If I use the AC on the gen to power fan(s) I'm going to have to be cautious of the fan power usage as the only time I would plan on using the gen is for the Air.

Have to look for a 'thrifty' fan that will do the job. That fan you provided the link for looks good. I'll explore for a DC source I can use.
If you prefer to power the fan(s) directly from the gen for convenience Grainger has many types of axial fans for equipment cooling with some that are 120V and rated for wet locations. Amp draw obviously depends on their size/CFM. They are quite pricey too.

https://www.grainger.com/category/hv...act-axial-fans
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Old 05-26-2020, 02:59 PM   #14
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If the box is to contain only the generator, and only for theft prevention, I would cut out the sides of the box. Make the cutouts as large as possible without being large enough to get the generator out. Make it a cage rather than a box.
I had thought about drilling holes in the sides of the box. I've looked everywhere I can find and Honda does not publish any temp parameters that I can find.

I 'talked' to a Honda employee on some forum. Can't remember which, so many of them. He was very careful that he was stating only his opinion, not Honda policy.

Honda does not publish a max ambient temp for operation. He said "these gens have been operating all over the world with no temp problems so it should not be an issue, your body would shut down before the gen did". Again, his opinion.

He did relate Honda directions that there should be 3 ' clearance on all sides of the gen for air circulation.

I think your suggestion about cutting the sides may be the way to go. Seems to be the same as allowing side clearance.
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Old 05-26-2020, 03:05 PM   #15
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Lock it down in the bed of the truck: Generator security mount systems
You had to do it , didn't you. Now I got another 'solution' to my 'simple' project.

I do like the mount systems on the site.

I knew the creative folks on this forum would come thru.
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Old 05-26-2020, 03:23 PM   #16
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Another option to consider. https://www.rvgeneratorbox.com/

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Old 05-26-2020, 03:27 PM   #17
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for sure if its in a mostly closed box, you'll want to extend the exhaust to well outside the box. I'm pretty sure the fresh cooling air goes in one end, and comes out the other end so any external fans should encourage that airflow.

re the 12V output, use a smallish automotive radiator fan, those can handle like 11-15 volts without a problem. many are two speed via three wires (ground, low, high speed), so you might be able to hook the high speed wire to a thermostat in the outlet air stream to run the fan on high when its warmer than some preset (of course, this would likely require a fan relay).
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