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05-11-2022, 03:36 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Carmel, New York
Trailer: 2021 Escape 5.0
Posts: 256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pfeathers
We are getting ready to make a maiden voyage in our 17B, going through all the systems.
I have a questions about the TV that we have mounted in the escape. I have attached a couple pictures. The TV mounting seems a bit awkward, I am not sure how it really works, in terms of storage when not in use. If I push the bracket to the curb side of the trailer it hits the dometic thermostat.
Is it meant to be removed when not in use?
Do people travel with them attached?
How does one fold it when it is not being used?
Also, we have the Fastway E2 hitch, pulling it with a Toyota Tundra. When it is all setup, the shank (L pointing down) is only about 5 inches from the pavement. Seems kind of close to me. I would think this will drag at times. IF I turn the L pointing upward, the ball is just too high. Any thoughts.
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For four years in our 17B, we did the following with the TV:
1. Made a soft foam “cage” to fit around the thermostat when driving.
2. Folded the mount in on itself so the tv was up against the bulkhead and thermostat. The cage protected the thermostat just fine. Used a bungee cord hooked into the mount’s metal support arm, wrapped the cord around the TV and then hooked the other end into the support too. Kept the TV folded up and secure. Never had a problem, but that previous arm was not so easy to detach from the bulkhead as the one you’ve got , and we’ve got on our 21 5.0 now)
3. The new arm is easy to slide out of the bulkhead attachment, so I always remove the TV and secure it by the bed before driving.
Jonathan
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05-12-2022, 03:25 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Sacramento, California
Trailer: 2018 17b
Posts: 19
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TV should be removed when driving. The arm is made to be removed from the mount on the wall.
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05-14-2022, 09:07 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Anacortes, Washington
Trailer: Escape 2018 17B
Posts: 24
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Progress
Got my bearings greased, brakes adjusted, shank cut off (a whopping 8.5 inches. On the frig I removed the little cover over the propane burner, burner nice and clean but the opposite side was totally plugged with spray insulation. I could see where some of it was burning. My frig would run a couple hours on propane and the quit, check light coming on. I dug all the insulation out around the burner. It’s been running now about 8 hours. Keeping my fingers crossed.
My exit window will not open. Any secrets here?
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05-14-2022, 11:04 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pfeathers
My exit window will not open. Any secrets here?
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They get sticky when seated against the seal for awhile. Swing the opener 90 degrees so it is sticking straight out like you are opening the window and give the end of it some nice firm taps. It will break free.
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05-16-2022, 01:18 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Anacortes, Washington
Trailer: Escape 2018 17B
Posts: 24
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Got the exit window open, stuck with pollen and other sticky gunk. It rained last night so it softened all that stuff up in the gasket so with a few good steady pushes, it popped it open.
Now to tackle the Frig - I thought maybe I found the issue (insulation around the burner) but problem is still occurring - runs fine on AC, runs and cools on Gas, but if I leave it running for a number of hours on GAS the check light comes on.
Dometic will not help me troubleshoot the appliance as I am not an authorized service tech/company. I did download the diagnostic service manual and have gone through it and checked what I can.
Here is what I have checked:
Cleaned orifice per service manual.
Cleaned burner.
Checked for good DC voltage - good.
Checked for AC on the DC - very low, .3 - so OK.
Checked re-light capability, turned manual shutoff valve to off and on while burner is lit, flame goes out and then system relights.
Check thermistor operation, used can air to cool thermistor, flame shuts down, then when it warms up, it lights up again.
Seems all is working correctly.
This behavior is not the end of the world, we can keep ice in the freezer and while it is working either gas, AC or DC it can freeze the ice. Then when we stop and camp we can put the frig on GAS. If we see the check light comes on, we reset the frig. The ice in the freezer should keep the inner portion cool enough, I would think even overnight, just a big cooler.
Any ideas of what else to check?
Anybody experience this problem?
Replacing the control board, that's about $200.
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05-16-2022, 01:46 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Venice, Florida
Trailer: 2020 Escape 19
Posts: 1,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pfeathers
We are getting ready to make a maiden voyage in our 17B, going through all the systems.
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What year trailer is your 17B? Your profile still shows TBD.
What size tires does your trailer have?
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05-16-2022, 01:59 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pfeathers
Got the exit window open, stuck with pollen and other sticky gunk. It rained last night so it softened all that stuff up in the gasket so with a few good steady pushes, it popped it open.
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05-16-2022, 04:34 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Anacortes, Washington
Trailer: Escape 2018 17B
Posts: 24
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Profile updated. We have a 2018 17B, 15 inch tires.
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