Grey tank drain line separation

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Dcboyd

Well guys, is it recommended that when my new 21c arrives, that I put in a flexible rubber Sleeve close to 5he tank outlet to allow for movement in my grey, and fresh water tanks. I will not have the insulation.
Also use proper support pipe clamps lieu of straps.

What? Is this an admitted design flaw?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Dcboyd

Well guys, is it recommended that when my new 21c arrives, that I put in a flexible rubber Sleeve close to 5he tank outlet to allow for movement in my grey, and fresh water tanks. I will not have the insulation.
Also use proper support pipe clamps lieu of straps.

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

What? Is this an admitted design flaw?

My hope is that by saying "is it" recommended that Dcboyd is asking a question. It would be ridiculous if this was a recommendation from Escape on a new trailer.

[DWM3]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Fortunately for me I don't like the factory foam so that won't be a problem and the foam that I installed still provides full access. I can't see dropping the gray tank would be an issue, looks pretty accessible to me.

But if height to work was an issue then I'd just roll on to the four 2" 2x10s that I use for levelling. I can't see that a hoist would ever be needed.

Ron

Ron - Does the photo show the foam you installed? I've searched for posts describing doing that but was unable to find any. I'd rather not get the spray foam, but would like to insulate the floor. Thanks!
Don

[Dcboyd]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Fortunately for me I don't like the factory foam so that won't be a problem and the foam that I installed still provides full access. I can't see dropping the gray tank would be an issue, looks pretty accessible to me.

But if height to work was an issue then I'd just roll on to the four 2" 2x10s that I use for levelling. I can't see that a hoist would ever be needed.

Ron

So is there no support in that drain line after it leaves the tank? Looks like it from the photo.
Also looks like the PEX radius bends are over bent causing flattening of the lines. May just be an optical illusion. I have to keep telling myself this is a trailer, not a commercial building project.

[Dcboyd]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

My hope is that by saying "is it" recommended that Dcboyd is asking a question. It would be ridiculous if this was a recommendation from Escape on a new trailer.

Lol. Yes I meant to have a question mark after that sentence. I am asking the forum advice.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by DWM3

Ron - Does the photo show the foam you installed? I've searched for posts describing doing that but was unable to find any. I'd rather not get the spray foam, but would like to insulate the floor. Thanks!
Don

No, that was pre foam. I used rigid foam on both my 19 and 21. The primary purpose is to insulate the floor so that it doesn't feel unduly cold when walking around with only socks when it's cold outside. Our trailer is "shoes off".

I'm not worried about travelling in cold weather which we do in Jan. and Feb. heading South. It's a weather dependent call to travel dry or not. Never had a problem.

I don't like covering up plumbing, wiring and propane lines and I sure don't like the look of the factory foam.

It's a belt and braces installation. I use foam adhesive but install the strapping as mechanical support "just in case".

Looking at the unsupported waste arm I'm thinking that I could find a use for some of my leftover pipe strapping.

Ron

[DWM3]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

No, that was pre foam. I used rigid foam on both my 19 and 21. The primary purpose is to insulate the floor so that it doesn't feel unduly cold when walking around with only socks when it's cold outside. Our trailer is "shoes off".

I'm not worried about travelling in cold weather which we do in Jan. and Feb. heading South. It's a weather dependent call to travel dry or not. Never had a problem.

I don't like covering up plumbing, wiring and propane lines and I sure don't like the look of the factory foam.

It's a belt and braces installation. I use foam adhesive but install the strapping as mechanical support "just in case".

Looking at the unsupported waste arm I'm thinking that I could find a use for some of my leftover pipe strapping.

Ron

That is an incredibly neat an clean installation. Hopefully I can pull it off. Our 21 arrives in Feb, and I'm doing my best to choose the proper options. This really helps.

Don

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

No, that was pre foam. I used rigid foam on both my 19 and 21. The primary purpose is to insulate the floor so that it doesn't feel unduly cold when walking around with only socks when it's cold outside. Our trailer is "shoes off".

I'm not worried about travelling in cold weather which we do in Jan. and Feb. heading South. It's a weather dependent call to travel dry or not. Never had a problem.

I don't like covering up plumbing, wiring and propane lines and I sure don't like the look of the factory foam.

It's a belt and braces installation. I use foam adhesive but install the strapping as mechanical support "just in case".

Looking at the unsupported waste arm I'm thinking that I could find a use for some of my leftover pipe strapping.

Ron

Really nice job on the foam, Ron. We have a 2017 21. Did you by any chance document the sizes and cuts on each piece? If so, would you care to share? Thanks.

[Dcboyd]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

No, that was pre foam. I used rigid foam on both my 19 and 21. The primary purpose is to insulate the floor so that it doesn't feel unduly cold when walking around with only socks when it's cold outside. Our trailer is "shoes off".

I'm not worried about travelling in cold weather which we do in Jan. and Feb. heading South. It's a weather dependent call to travel dry or not. Never had a problem.

I don't like covering up plumbing, wiring and propane lines and I sure don't like the look of the factory foam.

It's a belt and braces installation. I use foam adhesive but install the strapping as mechanical support "just in case".

Looking at the unsupported waste arm I'm thinking that I could find a use for some of my leftover pipe strapping.

Ron

Beautiful job you did. Did you use regular foam board adhesive, and I recon you peeled the plastic overlay off?

[splicer]

I like that so much better than the foam option. Great job!!

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by stephen99

Really nice job on the foam, Ron. We have a 2017 21. Did you by any chance document the sizes and cuts on each piece? If so, would you care to share? Thanks.

I didn't but no worries. The measurements are easy and I measured and cut and all the pieces and they ended up being a friction fit. Just got lucky I guess. Almost thought, notice I said almost, that they fit so well that I wouldn't need adhesive. But no worries even a major cutting mistake isn't a biggie. The piece is still usable.

Originally Posted by Dcboyd

Beautiful job you did. Did you use regular foam board adhesive, and I recon you peeled the plastic overlay off?

Yes, I used regular foam board adhesive. The foam is your basic Pink Owens Corning rigid foam. No overlay. I painted it black with a water base paint.

Ron

[stephen99]

Ron, which thickness did you go with?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I've done a ton of work and mods on my two Escapes just by sliding under them without raising them.

Viability for a specific trailer depend, of course, on model, year, presence of lifted suspension, owner's degree of claustrophobia, and size of owner's beer belly.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by stephen99

Ron, which thickness did you go with?

I know Ron used 2” foam. With the 4” frame I’m sure you could do two layers and still look really clean. Did this on an older Scamp which just had the “resin impregnated” OSB floor and it seemed to help. They make Liquid Nails (link below) formulated to work with polystyrene foam if you are so inclined. No straps needed with that stuff for sure.

Here is a thread where I documented the Scamp install:
https://scampowners.com/comment/4607#comment-4607

Here is the thread when Ron documented the install on his 2014 19’:
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tion-7046.html

This is the foam both Ron and I have used:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...-202085962-_-N

Liquid Nails adhesive:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-N...-903/100176209

[rjreeves]

Pic 1: repair done.


Pic 2: Repair piece installed (pvc flex section) and ready to re-assemble to valve assembly: notice the valve assembly hanging lower than the grey tank output: once assembled this would probably be the source of the tension/compression that caused the failure of the broken ABS pipe. Raising the valve assembly to match the position of the grey tank output line would be smart except:


Pic3: the valve assembly, more specifically the black tank dump valve housing, is hanging (hanging is the appropriate word, it's hanging by plumber's tape holding it where it is, at least until the screw into the fiberglass body holding the plumber's tape fails) so close to the trailer body I cannot fit my pinkie finger between the two, so raising the assembly would create a rubbing wear point where the two meet.
Had the dump valve assembly had been installed rotated slightly downward from the horizontal output position there would be room to elevate the valve assembly by shortening the length of the plumber's tape section to achieve a better alignment of the components.

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I know Ron used 2” foam. With the 4” frame I’m sure you could do two layers and still look really clean. Did this on an older Scamp which just had the “resin impregnated” OSB floor and it seemed to help. They make Liquid Nails (link below) formulated to work with polystyrene foam if you are so inclined. No straps needed with that stuff for sure.

Here is a thread where I documented the Scamp install:
https://scampowners.com/comment/4607#comment-4607

Here is the thread when Ron documented the install on his 2014 19’:
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tion-7046.html

This is the foam both Ron and I have used:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...-202085962-_-N

Liquid Nails adhesive:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-N...-903/100176209

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by rjreeves

Pic 1: repair done.


Pic 2: Repair piece installed (pvc flex section) and ready to re-assemble to valve assembly: notice the valve assembly hanging lower than the grey tank output: once assembled this would probably be the source of the tension/compression that caused the failure of the broken ABS pipe. Raising the valve assembly to match the position of the grey tank output line would be smart except:


Pic3: the valve assembly, more specifically the black tank dump valve housing, is hanging (hanging is the appropriate word, it's hanging by plumber's tape holding it where it is, at least until the screw into the fiberglass body holding the plumber's tape fails) so close to the trailer body I cannot fit my pinkie finger between the two, so raising the assembly would create a rubbing wear point where the two meet.
Had the dump valve assembly had been installed rotated slightly downward from the horizontal output position there would be room to elevate the valve assembly by shortening the length of the plumber's tape section to achieve a better alignment of the components.

I had somewhat the same misalignment issue and corrected with a 3" flex connector installed before the black dump valve. Would this help your alignment problem?

[rjreeves]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I had somewhat the same misalignment issue and corrected with a 3" flex connector installed before the black dump valve. Would this help your alignment problem?

Yes it will. I'll rotate the valve assembly away from the trailer body a bit more than I see in your pictures, but yes, that's what's next.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by stephen99

Ron, which thickness did you go with?

I think I used 2" on my 19 and 1 1/2" on my 21. It has proven to be adequate.

Ron

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I had somewhat the same misalignment issue and corrected with a 3" flex connector installed before the black dump valve. Would this help your alignment problem?

I can see that a pre-existing misalignment pushed into alignment and then subject to vibrations etc. could cause fatigue and then failure at the pipe connection.

Probably a flexible connection like yours is a good idea in any line and especially where misalignment is present.

Ron